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Gear Leg Fairing

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Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:11 am Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

[quote]I’m working on the gear leg fairing hinge that holds the trailing edge together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this would leave a small protrusion above the surface. Has anyone used the oops rivets here? They are larger diameter (1/8”) but have a smaller head and might not protrude.Albert GardnerYuma, AZ [b]

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RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:05 am Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

I think what they mean is to not flair the shop head as much.  The countersunk hole is the same and the rivets should be flush…..just don’t squeeze them as much.  

     

Rene' Felker  

N423CF  

40322  

801-721-6080  

        

  

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner

 Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:15 AM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Gear Leg Fairing  

  

    	  Quote: 	
		  I’m working on the gear leg fairing hinge that holds the trailing edge together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this would leave a small protrusion above the surface. Has anyone used the oops rivets here? They are larger diameter (1/8”) but have a smaller head and might not protrude.Albert GardnerYuma, AZ   together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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		  because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this 	
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       [quote][b]

Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:17 am Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Al, whatever rivets you use, consider adding a strip of fiberglass tape 

to cover the rivet heads. It will keep them from 'working' later on and 

messing up your paint job. After you prime and sand w/ some 

primer/filler (Smoothprime) it will look glass smooth.



Deems Davis # 406

'Its all done....Its just not put together'

http://deemsrv10.com/



Albert Gardner wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   *I’m working on the gear leg fairing hinge that holds the trailing edge *

 *together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set *

 *because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this *

 *would leave a small protrusion above the surface. Has anyone used the *

 *oops rivets here? They are larger diameter (1/8”) but have a smaller *

 *head and might not protrude.*

 *Albert Gardner*

 *Yuma**, **AZ*

 *

 *

bertrv6(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:21 am Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Albert:  I have an rv6a I do mnot know if the fairing is very much different,

but I used the regular rivets,  if I recall were the A3-4? they are small..

JUst set them carefully, with enough preasure to get a smooth surface.



 I did not have any problem with them.  The imprtant thing is to have

a good quality

set of, rivets set heads? ( I got mine from  Avery) Adjust the rivet Squezer

so that would not crush the fiber  glass.  Really it is easier than you think.



I would not use pop rivets, they do not have the strengh under the stress

and tension, if that is the case... also they will never look as good...



Hope this will help you



Bertrv6sa



donot archive



On 1/10/08, Albert Gardner <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 I'm working on the gear leg fairing hinge that holds the trailing edge

 together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn't be completely set

 because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this

 would leave a small protrusion above the surface. Has anyone used the

 oops rivets here? They are larger diameter (1/8") but have a smaller

 head and might not protrude.

 Albert Gardner

 Yuma, AZ


	


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drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:27 am Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Albert;



I did the gear fairings last week. I used the 3.5 rivets. Standard. I 

had read the note in the plans and used just a gentle squeeze with the 

hand squeezer. Had the countersink enough to have the rivet head flush. 

Went well. I did not hear any fiberglass cracking or see any problems.



Dr Fred.

Albert Gardner wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   *I’m working on the gear leg fairing hinge that holds the trailing edge *

 *together. The plans indicate that the rivets shouldn’t be completely set *

 *because it might crack the thin fiberglass material. I suppose that this *

 *would leave a small protrusion above the surface. Has anyone used the *

 *oops rivets here? They are larger diameter (1/8”) but have a smaller *

 *head and might not protrude.*

 *Albert Gardner*

 *Yuma**, **AZ*

 * *

 *

 *

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:49 pm Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Just completing a Conditional on a nine year old RV-6A. By the way, the

Lycosaurus is an O-360 modified for IO service and over 900 hours of

joyous almost maintenance free operations.  Compressions were all 80/80

and one was 79/80.  One half of the AD426D-3-3.5 rivets have pulled

through the glass on the leg fairings.  This is the piano hinge retainer

on the trailing edge.  Integrity of the glass was compromised by

hydro-carbon pollution which was to be anticipated.



The discovery was part of the SB pursuit and solution on the Nose Wheel

Fork.



For the RV-10, you guys are still seven years from discovery that the

small countersunk head cannot be retained by just the fiberglass under

normal vibration forces.



For What Its Worth



I recommend an epoxy to metal piano hinge fastening process, backed up

by the rivets.  Be sure and leave adequate clearance between contact

with the lower engine cowl and the fairing.  The fairing lost all of its

outer epoxy and half the glass to the chafing with the lower cowl.



John Cox - #40600



--

VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:01 pm Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Put a layer of glass between the hinge and the  fairing hold with  clecos till it cures then put your rivets in and  squeeze as much as you like.

 We did this with our 6 after many other builder  with great results

  

 Chris

 [quote]   ---

Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:19 pm Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

I didn't do this on the leg fairings, but I did do it on the cowl hinges 

and that was to apply Pro-seal between the hinge and the fiberglass and 

then rivet.



Deems Davis # 406

'Its all done....Its just not put together'

http://deemsrv10.com/



Chris and Susie McGough wrote:

[quote] Put a layer of glass between the hinge and the fairing hold with 

 clecos till it cures then put your rivets in and squeeze as much as 

 you like.

 We did this with our 6 after many other builder with great results

 Chris



     ---

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:24 pm Post subject: Gear Leg Fairing

Thanks for the suggestions. It sure looks better with the pants and fairings on.  

Albert Gardner  

Yuma, AZ  

        [quote][b]

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RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

Lew Gallagher

Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:58 am Post subject: Re: Gear Leg Fairing

Hey Chris.



Here's a follow up comment to your process of adding a strip of glass/epoxy between the hinge and the fairing on the strut pants:  I did this (as well as adding a layer over the rivet heads)on the nose strut and I ran into this problem that others should be aware of.  



When you put pressure on the bond with clecoes, some resin squeezes out between the ears of the hinge.  This looked innocent enough at the time and I didn't think anything about it.  But then after it hardened and I tried to mate the two hinge halves, the slight build up of resin between the ears prevents the mating hinge from seating all the way in -- so that even though the hinge pin slides freely in each half separately, it won't draw the hinges together -- i.e., you can't get the hinge pin in.  



So after a couple hours of carving out the resin between the ears, it finally mates!  Whew!  It looks indestructible, but I promise, I will take great care not to let the resin get in the way on the main gear strut pants!



Later, - Lew

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