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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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 Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:49 pm Post subject: Wingtip lens |
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We're installing the wingtip marker/strobe and landing light Van's kit, and it calls for just one countersunk screw on top and bottom corners of the lens. In Plexiglas instructions I've read elsewhere, they always say not to countersink but to oversize drill the screw hole and use a washer to allow for expansion/contraction movement.
I've seen other wingtip lens on the 6A that have several screws & washers along each edge of the lens. Has something changed? Different lens material? Would it be better to at least add more screws?
While I'm on Plexiglas ... the owner of the 6A I was looking at said that some of his friends who do acrobatics, have had the fiberglass bond of the windshield forward edge crack where it bonds to the aluminum. They are adding an aluminum strip riveted to the skin that comes up over the Plexiglas 3/4" or so to add mechanical strength, then glassing over that ... comments?
Later, - Lew
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non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:42 pm Post subject: Wingtip lens |
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Lew,
The wingtip lens plastic, is labeled as plexi, but it's properties are
different from the plexi used for the windows. The wing tip lens/covers
are much softer. If you use a microstop countersink you will find that
it quickly grabs and digs into the plastic. (ask me how I know) making
it difficult to obtain a smooth countersunk hole (at least for me) I
bought some stainless steel countersunk washers to use to 'doctor-up'
and hide the 'chattered' countersunk holes. I've purchased a
replacement lens and am going to remake them, and take more care in
countersinking the holes. I have no magic plan other than to go very
slow and use very light pressure. I'll also probably use progressive
sizes to avoid taking off too much at a time.
I used 3 screws per lens, one in the corner and one midway on top and
bottom. The differences in the fiberglass tips and the lenses curvature
requires additional screws in my case.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2024%20Wing%20Tips/slides/DSC02085.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lew Gallagher wrote:
| Quote: |
We're installing the wingtip marker/strobe and landing light Van's kit, and it calls for just one countersunk screw on top and bottom corners of the lens. In Plexiglas instructions I've read elsewhere, they always say not to countersink but to oversize drill the screw hole and use a washer to allow for expansion/contraction movement.
I've seen other wingtip lens on the 6A that have several screws & washers along each edge of the lens. Has something changed? Different lens material? Would it be better to at least add more screws?
While I'm on Plexiglas ... the owner of the 6A I was looking at said that some of his friends who do acrobatics, have had the fiberglass bond of the windshield forward edge crack where it bonds to the aluminum. They are adding an aluminum strip riveted to the skin that comes up over the Plexiglas 3/4" or so to add mechanical strength, then glassing over that ... comments?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156251#156251
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nukeflyboy
Joined: 05 Jan 2008
Posts: 162
Location: Granbury, TX
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| Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:53 am Post subject: Re: Wingtip lens |
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I have an RV-6 and I frequently turn it greasy side up. Never had the problem of cracks as you described, nor heard of it. There are a lot of factors here: slider or tilt-up, epoxy or vinyl resin, number of layers on the layup, 3.5 G loop or 4.5 G, etc.
I don't think the aluminum is necessary, and it would be tough to make this compound curve.
You don't plan on doing this (aerobatics) with your 10, do you? If so, install a G-meter, don't exceed some small number (say 2.5), and stick with the plans.
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Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying |
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:18 pm Post subject: Re: Wingtip lens |
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Thanks Deems and Dave,
I've added two countersunk screws/nut plates on each lens (top and bottom toward the leading edge (5" and 4.5" from corner) with no problems, and that seems much tighter.
My pilot (I'm the builder) has NO intentions of getting upside down in the RV-10 -- I just wondered if anybody else had heard about the cracks in the 6 windshield/aluminum bond, and thought that now would be the time to consider beefing it up. We may still consider putting a 12' or so strip in the center.
Later, - Lew
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crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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indigoonlatigo(at)MSN.COM
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:33 am Post subject: Wingtip lens |
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I am planning on putting a little fiberglass retainer clip on the leading edge of the wing tip which the lense can slip under and then place the two retainer screws in the corners. Using duct tape as a releasing agent over the leading edge of the lens will prevent the resin from bonding to the lens. It is removed from the lens once the fabrication is complete.
On a seperate issue, I noticed my right wing tip to be more than a quarter of an inch too long in chord length and it needed to be cut flush to the T.E. of the Aileron. The left one was not as bad.
John G.
| Quote: | Subject: Re: Wingtip lens
From: lewgall(at)charter.net
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 21:18:16 -0800
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Thanks Deems and Dave,
I've added two countersunk screws/nut plates on each lens (top and bottom toward the leading edge (5" and 4.5" from corner) with no problems, and that seems much tighter.
My pilot (I'm the builder) has NO intentions of getting upside down in the RV-10 -- I just wondered if anybody else had heard about the cracks in the 6 windshield/aluminum bond, and thought that now would be the time to consider beefing it up. We may still consider putting a 12' or so strip in the center.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157930#157930
>
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[quote][b]
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:25 pm Post subject: Re: Wingtip lens |
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Here's a follow up on my comment about the aerobatic guys adding a strip of aluminum riveted to the fwd fuse top skin and overlapping the base of the windshield to prevent later cracks.
We now have the instructions for the finishing kit, which include the windshield installation ... and on page 45-18 (Rev 0, date 1/14/05) step 5, it says "fabricate 5 clips from .032 aluminum and blind rivet them to F-1071 Fwd Fuse Top Skin to hold the base of the windshield". And then goes on with the laying up of fiberglass instructions.
If this is something new, how come the revision is 0 and it's the old date? Or maybe everybody has been doing this already and it's just the first I'm hearing of it?
Later, - Lew
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_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879
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| Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:46 pm Post subject: Wingtip lens |
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Yes, this is something everyone has been doing already. I don't
think you could consider the clips to be structural in any
way at all. They're just there to hold the windshield in its
orientation while you glass it all in.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Lew Gallagher wrote:
| Quote: |
<lewgall(at)charter.net>
Here's a follow up on my comment about the aerobatic guys adding a
strip of aluminum riveted to the fwd fuse top skin and overlapping
the base of the windshield to prevent later cracks.
We now have the instructions for the finishing kit, which include the
windshield installation ... and on page 45-18 (Rev 0, date 1/14/05)
step 5, it says "fabricate 5 clips from .032 aluminum and blind rivet
them to F-1071 Fwd Fuse Top Skin to hold the base of the windshield".
And then goes on with the laying up of fiberglass instructions.
If this is something new, how come the revision is 0 and it's the old
date? Or maybe everybody has been doing this already and it's just
the first I'm hearing of it?
Later, - Lew
-------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're
mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160765#160765
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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