wdaniell(at)etb.net.co
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 Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:46 am Post subject: Will Daniell's wing - not as bad as I first though |
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For those that are interested
Phew “things are never as good or as bad as they seem at first sight” - it wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be…well not bad at all really.
Bud as usual was very helpful.
Yours
Will
From: Bud Yerly [mailto:budyerly(at)msn.com]
Sent: 15 March, 2011 11:12
To: William Daniell
Subject: Fw: Will Daniell's wing
Will,
See Dave Goddard's comments below, and sleep well.
Putting a wood plug in the existing hole is a bit fiddle and faddle, you may be better off using a bit of Redux in the hole. Mix about 20 grams of Redux. Start by using the raw Redux on a Q tip or small brush to thoroughly saturate the wood. Then flox up the the rest and fill the hole using peel ply and a bit of metal or ply with release tape clamped over the hole to keep it from oozing out. and making a nice flat cured surface. Put a lamp on it for the night to keep the temp around 30C or 100F overnight. Then let's start over.
Use that bolt head in the fuselage C section and put a soda straw or tubing that will slide in line to the rigged spar. Use 5 minute or clay or some means of allowing a mark on the spar to show when the bit of straw or tubing slides over to make contact. That marks the spot for the wing mounted QD. Cut the straw if it is glued and drill with a small pilot hole dead square to the spar and progressively open it up.
I begin in the shop with an 1/8 inch drill bit. Then leave the bit in the wing and re-rig. Check the alignment and then drill for home using an alignment jig to drill straight..
In your fuzzy photo's it did not look like you had done your spar to root rib layups (Chap 8-6), but I could be wrong. These need to be done before that spar cup and such is on of course.
On the side where you are concerned about the bolt head recess or opening, you may use a spade bit of course or I have found that a Forsner bit works well. A Dremel tool with a flat topped carbide tip and a router attachment allows neat work also. Go slow and take your time. The difference in materials will make the spade bit, or any bit want to wobble.
Finally, grind down your glass on that head side a layer or two to four with your die grinder. Feather the grinding smoothly at a very gradual angle. Only grind off your spar to root plies you added in chapter 8. Then apply a Bid Cloth patch staggered in layers of at least 1.5-2.0 inch overlap on the first with each layer .5 inches beyond the first for the full six layers and that will re- establish your spar to rib overlap. Of course you could grind more down carefully to the spar and reapply the two longest spar laps overlapping a couple of inches, but it is not necessary. The patch will be fine.
Once you have the head of the bolt exactly where you want it, flox it in with Redux as the manual states and you are on your way.
Regards,
Bud
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