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Ground connection

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lamber(at)videotron.ca
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:10 pm Post subject: Ground connection

I have a single seat  wood aircraft and the battery is just being the 

seat. I am running a ground wire (#6) on the left side of the cockpit 

and would like to connect 2 or 3 ground wire to it near the instrument 

panel. Any suggestion on how to do that without cutting it?

Ray

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 10:40 am Post subject: Ground connection

At 04:08 PM 3/15/2013, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



I have a single seat  wood aircraft and the battery is just being 

the seat. I am running a ground wire (#6) on the left side of the 

cockpit and would like to connect 2 or 3 ground wire to it near the 

instrument panel. Any suggestion on how to do that without cutting it?


	


   Not with any grace . . . the elegant technique

   calls for a single point ground on the fire wall

   from whence all other grounds radiate . . . like

   this (or your own incarnation of the idea).



http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Forest_of_Tabs_Ground_Kit.pdf



   Bob . . .

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Bob McC

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:33 am Post subject: Ground connection

Not elegant, not designed for aircraft use,  but - - designed to accomplish tapping into a "straight through" conductor without cutting, as you've asked for.  

   

http://tinyurl.com/amv2z6e  

   

Bob McC  

   

   

   

[b]> --

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_________________
Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting)

nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 2:26 pm Post subject: Ground connection

At 02:32 PM 3/16/2013, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   Not elegant, not designed for aircraft use,  but - - designed to accomplish tapping into a "straight through" conductor without cutting, as you've asked for.

  

 http://tinyurl.com/amv2z6e

  

 Bob McC 	


    You beat me to it Bob . . . I was

    just thinking about this that option

    on the way home about 15 miles ago.



    Another option is to simply bare some

    conductors along 1" or so of the main

    cable run and simply solder the necessary

    'branch' wires to it after wrapping them

    a few turns around the run. I don't think

    this would any less elegant than the

    split bolt approach . . . and it would make

    less of a lump under a wrapping of tape.



    Tape, wuderful stuff . . . hides lots of

    sins!  Some silicone guide-line tape would

    be a good choice . . .



 

 

   Bob . . .    [quote][b]

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racerjerry

Joined: 15 Dec 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Deer Park, NY

Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 5:24 am Post subject: Re: Ground connection

If you are gonna’ splice and solder, you MUST have a good mechanical connection; otherwise vibration can easily cause separation.   A solid mechanical connection is usually achieved by wrapping a couple of turns of the branch wire around the main cable.  The only problem with this method is that, especially for heavy cables, you now have a branch wire that wants to exit at 90 degrees.  If you need the cables parallel, which is usually the case, I have had success achieving a good mechanical connection by using copper strands stripped from flexible building wire to wrap and tie several turns around both cables after very lightly tinning both cables before the final soldering.



BTW, split bolts work great to give a bulletproof mechanical connection; although as Bob says, somewhat bulky.  One thing I would caution about split bolts – If you EVER need to splice in aluminum wire; and especially when splicing aluminum to copper, make sure that you use the plated variety (not bare copper) of split bolt, along with some anti-oxidant compound.  Please don’t ask me how I know.

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_________________
Jerry King

lamber(at)videotron.ca
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:04 am Post subject: Ground connection

On 3/17/2013 9:24 AM, racerjerry wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 If you are gonna’ splice and solder, you MUST have a good mechanical connection; otherwise vibration can easily cause separation.   A solid mechanical connection is usually achieved by wrapping a couple of turns of the branch wire around the main cable.  The only problem with this method is that, especially for heavy cables, you now have a branch wire that wants to exit at 90 degrees.  If you need the cables parallel, which is usually the case, I have had success achieving a good mechanical connection by using copper strands stripped from flexible building wire to wrap and tie several turns around both cables after very lightly tinning both cables before the final soldering.



 BTW, split bolts work great to give a bulletproof mechanical connection; although as Bob says, somewhat bulky.  One thing I would caution about split bolts – If you EVER need to splice in aluminum wire; and especially when splicing aluminum to copper, make sure that you use the plated variety (not bare copper) of split bolt, along with some anti-oxidant compound.  Please don’t ask me how I know.



 --------

 Jerry King





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396405#396405



 Thank you guys,


	


I will try something that I found in AeroElectric_Connection_E-Book chapter 09, page 9-7, figure 9-5.

Thanks again

Ray



 	  Quote:

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 12:32 pm Post subject: Ground connection

Thank you guys,



I will try something that I found in AeroElectric_Connection_E-Book 

chapter 09, page 9-7, figure 9-5.



    Not sure this is applicable to your task. I

    think the design goal is to make a reliable

    electrical connection to a ground where

    you've decided that you don't want to 'break

    into' the wire.



    You don't have big mechanical issues here. This

    isn't a span of wire between poles and exposed to

    the weather. I think I would bare a short run of

    strands in the main wire, say 1" and lay one or

    more strands of your new branch conductors along

    side. Then harvest a couple fine strands of wire,

    several inches from a piece of scrap. Use these

    strands to bind the branch wires to the main wire,

    then solder and wrap with silicone rubber tape

    (self bonding without adhesive).



    This should produce an electrically reliable

    connection with more than adequate mechanical

    characteristics.



    Here's another case where individual strands

    from the wire's lay-up are pressed into service

    as an aid to fixturing the principal conductors

    while the joint is being soldered.



http://tinyurl.com/c5v2xvm



   Bob . . .

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