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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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 Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:57 am Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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On several occasions I've thought it would be nice if a
vacuum vise I inherited from my dad would 'stay put'
better on the workbench. Seems it's difficult to pull a
lasting vacuum on a wooden surface.
A solution occurred to me a couple of days ago.
I used some E6000 to bond a 7 x 7 inch piece of copper
clad to the bench thusly.
[img]cid:.0[/img]
I weighted it down well and gave it 48 hours+
to get bonded. E6000 is a solvent based adhesive
and I wanted to give the solvents plenty of time
to escape from under the sheet.
This produced a smooth, vacuum friendly surface . . .
[img]cid:.1[/img]
. . . yet thin enough not to be in the way when
the vise was not in service. You could do the same thing
with a piece of aluminum or perhaps some plastic that
was impervious to the effects of the E6000's solvents.
A thin steel sheet might be even better. Time tell how
well the copper clad stands up to the rigors of bench
surface before it too becomes 'leaky' . . .
By the way, the surface under the copper clad is tempered
Masonite. I use this to surface many of my benches attaching
it with flat head screws. When it gets too beaten to
clean up I can easily replace it for a whole new work
surface.
Bob . . .
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edpav8r(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:10 am Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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Bob,
Great idea! Very nice to be able to have a vise front and center when you need it and get it out of the way when you don't.
Re workbenches. I've made a couple of benches using a plain-front solid core interior door as the top. They're rigid, flat and stable, and come with a nicely finished surface. It's easy to fab and attach a simple support framework and legs with a few dollars worth of lumber and hardware.
Unfortunately, the nicely finished surface doesn't hold up very well to garage bench use. I'll try your idea and screw down a sheet of Masonite next time my bench needs a refinish. Thanks for the tip.
Eric
On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:55 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
[quote] By the way, the surface under the copper clad is tempered
Masonite. I use this to surface many of my benches attaching
it with flat head screws. When it gets too beaten to
clean up I can easily replace it for a whole new work
surface.
Bob . . .
[b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:59 pm Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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At 12:07 PM 3/20/2013, you wrote:
| Quote: | Bob,
Great idea! Very nice to be able to have a vise front and center
when you need it and get it out of the way when you don't.
Re workbenches. I've made a couple of benches using a plain-front
solid core interior door as the top.\
|
Hmmm . . . I've used doors for drafting tables.
That was back in the days when the Bruning broken-arm
drafting machine was king. Bought one used at
Cessna and built a drafting table from a door.
Used it a lot of years until the first time I
loaded AutoCAD 1.17 onto a PC-XT with a monster
20 Meg hard drive. The Bruning, table and all
those tools went into the next garage sale! That
was 30 years ago!
| Quote: | Unfortunately, the nicely finished surface doesn't hold up very well
to garage bench use. I'll try your idea and screw down a sheet of
Masonite next time my bench needs a refinish. Thanks for the tip.
|
Yeah, beat-n-bash benches need some mass. The
last one I built was when we were operating the
Benton Airport (1K1). I used a two-layer
3/4" MDF top covered with Masonite. You can
plunk a V8 block down on it . . .
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n
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| Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:43 pm Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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If I'm going to plunk a V-8 or a tranny on it, I prefer a 12-16 ga.
steel top. The oil and grease keep it from rusting. :>).
I'm sitting at a desk made of a door on a couple of filing cabinets as I
type. "Damaged" doors can be gotten at the local big box hardware stores
for cheap. I have a stack out back I throw on saw horses when I need
extra bench space. Good for garage sales, too.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 03/20/2013 09:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 12:07 PM 3/20/2013, you wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Great idea! Very nice to be able to have a vise front and center when
> you need it and get it out of the way when you don't.
>
> Re workbenches. I've made a couple of benches using a plain-front
> solid core interior door as the top.\
Hmmm . . . I've used doors for drafting tables.
That was back in the days when the Bruning broken-arm
drafting machine was king. Bought one used at
Cessna and built a drafting table from a door.
Used it a lot of years until the first time I
loaded AutoCAD 1.17 onto a PC-XT with a monster
20 Meg hard drive. The Bruning, table and all
those tools went into the next garage sale! That
was 30 years ago!
> Unfortunately, the nicely finished surface doesn't hold up very well
> to garage bench use. I'll try your idea and screw down a sheet of
> Masonite next time my bench needs a refinish. Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, beat-n-bash benches need some mass. The
last one I built was when we were operating the
Benton Airport (1K1). I used a two-layer
3/4" MDF top covered with Masonite. You can
plunk a V8 block down on it . . .
Bob . . .
|
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:54 am Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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At 02:42 AM 3/21/2013, you wrote:
| Quote: |
If I'm going to plunk a V-8 or a tranny on it, I prefer a 12-16 ga.
steel top. The oil and grease keep it from rusting. :>).
|
Sure . . . I was alluding to the strength not the
utility.
| Quote: | I'm sitting at a desk made of a door on a couple of filing cabinets
as I type. "Damaged" doors can be gotten at the local big box
hardware stores for cheap. I have a stack out back I throw on saw
horses when I need extra bench space. Good for garage sales, too.
|
Good idea . . . I could use one of those
myself. I'll check on availability next trip
to Wichita.
Bob . . .
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 805
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:41 am Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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Hi Group
Speaking about using doors for tables, I have a big piece of maple, 39" x 72" that I have attached to the back wall of my garage by 3 hinges. When in the down position it is supported by two cables that makes for a fine workbench. Plenty strong and rigid. Then when not needed it closes upward and I have a chain pull side gate style shoot bolt (spring loaded) that hits the striker that is mounted on the bottom of a permanent shelf (at the correct height). Using a door covered with any choice of covering you wish could easily be made into a folding table.
Off topic a bit, but on the main level of my home near my computer I have a copier that gets a pretty good workout. On complicated jobs there never seems to be enough table area. Right above the copier hangs a picture, actually pivots a picture. I have two small hinges on the bottom and it is held in the up position with Velcro. Pull it down and two thin cables hold it for a nice sized table right where you can easily get to it. Trick is to tie a rubber band between the cables so when you close some of the cable is not sticking out.
One more thought, my friend made a rather long and plenty rugged work table for his shop. He made it out of 2x4s. What he did was stood them so they were 4" tall and drilled holes for 1/2" threaded rods. He glued them together and used the threaded rods to pull things together. He also used the threaded rods to mount to the wall. He used a floor sander to sand things flat and finished. Pretty nice and very inexpensive (compared to Maple). He said he was going to put Oak on top if the surface proved to get too beat up. It lasted a long time, I think he refinished it once he never put the Oak on top.
Ron Parigoris [quote][b]
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LynnCole(at)foxvalley.net
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 1:39 pm Post subject: Vacuum vise |
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About 30 years ago I made a workbench similar to the one Ron Parigoris described in his third paragraph. I laid 2x4s on edge and used glue and 1/2-inch threaded rod as he did. The workbench is 3 ft by 7 ft. I used a hand plane to make the surface flat. On one end I put a wood-worker's vise. On the other end I put a drill press with an x-y table so I can do light milling. In the center I made an opening in which I can put a Skill saw, a reciprocating saw, or a router. Each tool has its own board that fits into the opening.
Soon after building it, it was obvious that the workbench was warping, so I used some 2x4s placed crosswise to the bench top 2x4s to keep the top flat. Even so there was more warpage that opened up the cracks between the top 2x4s. Those cracks were filled with a mixture of epoxy and sawdust. All in all, the workbench has proved to be a very useful tool over the years.
-----
Lynn Cole
LynnCole(at)foxvalley.net (LynnCole(at)foxvalley.net)
On Mar 21, 2013, at 12:39 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us (rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us) wrote:
[quote]
Hi Group
Speaking about using doors for tables, I have a big piece of maple, 39" x 72" that I have attached to the back wall of my garage by 3 hinges. When in the down position it is supported by two cables that makes for a fine workbench. Plenty strong and rigid. Then when not needed it closes upward and I have a chain pull side gate style shoot bolt (spring loaded) that hits the striker that is mounted on the bottom of a permanent shelf (at the correct height). Using a door covered with any choice of covering you wish could easily be made into a folding table.
Off topic a bit, but on the main level of my home near my computer I have a copier that gets a pretty good workout. On complicated jobs there never seems to be enough table area. Right above the copier hangs a picture, actually pivots a picture. I have two small hinges on the bottom and it is held in the up position with Velcro. Pull it down and two thin cables hold it for a nice sized table right where you can easily get to it. Trick is to tie a rubber band between the cables so when you close some of the cable is not sticking out.
One more thought, my friend made a rather long and plenty rugged work table for his shop. He made it out of 2x4s. What he did was stood them so they were 4" tall and drilled holes for 1/2" threaded rods. He glued them together and used the threaded rods to pull things together. He also used the threaded rods to mount to the wall. He used a floor sander to sand things flat and finished. Pretty nice and very inexpensive (compared to Maple). He said he was going to put Oak on top if the surface proved to get too beat up. It lasted a long time, I think he refinished it once he never put the Oak on top.
Ron Parigoris | Quote: |
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[b]
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