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heater fan wiring

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kenryan

Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:00 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.



I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 AWG wire.

I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too much for the 20 AWG wire.

The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.

I guess I have two questions:

1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?

2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?

Thanks,

Ken

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user9253

Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1931
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 1:11 pm Post subject: Re: heater fan wiring

I would try a 7.5 amp fuse.  I usually prefer fuses.  But for a motor,

 a circuit breaker will not nuisance trip as easily.  Some day the motor

 bearings will freeze up.  If fused higher and the motor draws 12 amps continuously,

 the wire will then get hot enough to boil water.

  How hard is it to replace the wire?  Sometimes it is easier to go ahead 

and do it the hard way to start with.  When faced with a decision like this,

 I ask myself, what is best in the long run, not what is easiest right now.

_________________
Joe Gores

ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 1:58 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

On 3/28/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I 

 have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent 

 magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.



 I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going 

 to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 

 AWG wire.



 I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need 

 to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too 

 much for the 20 AWG wire.



 The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire 

 from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.



 I guess I have two questions:



 1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?



 2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you 

 think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?



 Thanks,



 Ken

Somebody on another forum recently posted a link to Cooper Bussman ATC 
	


format circuit breakers. The time-to-trip vs overload percentage looks a 

lot like traditional circuit breakers, instead of the near-instant trip 

of an ATC fuse. Might be worth a look. The longer time constant should 

allow for momentary startup loads.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_227_ATC_CB.pdf



http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/circuit-protection/bus-cbt-ds-series-22x-circuit-breakers.pdf



That's a really sturdy looking fan box.  What's it weigh?



Charlie

kenryan

Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 2:36 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

Charlie, it weighs 3 pounds 14 ounces, but that does not include hoses or fittings (or the additional fluid required). I estimate 5.5 pounds all told, 6 pounds maximum. The stuff that I will be removing (heater box, scat tubing, cables, etc. weighs about 3 pounds, so 2 or 3 pounds heavier the airplane will be.Â 



To me this is a no-brainer, as I look upon the typical method of scavenging off the exhaust as a kind of Sword of Damocles, always poised to kill you. Plus, I live in Alaska! Lots of cold weather flying, so a better heater is really appreciated.



So anyway, I got my speed control this morning. I hooked it all up and tried to blow the 5 amp fuse. I was not successful.Â 

I am thinking that maybe the information that I read about 12 amp startup draw is bogus. As I said, this is a permanent magnet type motor, very similar to what I have seen on computers. Does this type of motor really have large startup loads?

So now that I have tried and failed to blow the 5 amp fuse, unless this list implores me to rewire for safety, I will stick with the 20 AWG.Â 

I'm pretty sure Bob has said that there is no problem using a 7.5 amp fuse with 20 AWG, right? If I did blow the 5 amp, I would still have the 7.5 amp fuse option.

Ken



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 1:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

 

 On 3/28/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.

 

 I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 AWG wire.

 

 I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too much for the 20 AWG wire.

 

 The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.

 

 I guess I have two questions:

 

 1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?

 

 2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?

 

 Thanks,

 

 Ken

 	




 Somebody on another forum recently posted a link to Cooper Bussman ATC format circuit breakers. The time-to-trip vs overload percentage looks a lot like traditional circuit breakers, instead of the near-instant trip of an ATC fuse. Might be worth a look. The longer time constant should allow for momentary startup loads.

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_227_ATC_CB.pdf

 

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/circuit-protection/bus-cbt-ds-series-22x-circuit-breakers.pdf

 

 That's a really sturdy looking fan box.  What's it weigh?

 

 Charlie

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kenryan

Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 2:45 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

That's a good point Joe. Update: I got it all hooked up (temporary) and it works great with a 5 amp fuse, so I think I will be okay. If necessary I will go to 7.5 amp, but I won't go higher than that. Do these type motors really have large startup current requirements? Would it make any difference that I am running it through a PWM speed control? Like I said, I am not blowing a 5 amp fuse.



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 1:12 PM, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com (fransew(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com (fransew(at)gmail.com)>

 

 I would try a 7.5 amp fuse.Â  I usually prefer fuses.Â  But for a motor,

 Â a circuit breaker will not nuisance trip as easily.Â  Some day the motor

 Â bearings will freeze up.Â  If fused higher and the motor draws 12 amps continuously,

 Â the wire will then get hot enough to boil water.

 Â  How hard is it to replace the wire?Â  Sometimes it is easier to go ahead

 and do it the hard way to start with.Â  When faced with a decision like this,

 Â I ask myself, what is best in the long run, not what is easiest right now.

 

 --------

 Joe Gores

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467764#467764

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ====================================

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 Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List

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  FORUMS -

 eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 WIKI -

 errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com

 ====================================

 b Site -

 Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

user9253

Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1931
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 4:01 pm Post subject: Re: heater fan wiring

Ken, Some fan speed controllers put out a steady DC for several milliseconds to start a motor, then change over to PWM.  The motor might very well draw 12 amps to start, but only for a fraction of a second, too short of a time to heat up and blow a fuse.  It looks like you have answered your own question by testing.  As long as it works, it is good enough.

  Thanks for those links Charlie.  I never knew ATC circuit breakers existed.

_________________
Joe Gores

Eric Page

Joined: 15 Feb 2017
Posts: 249

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 4:11 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

Does your speed control have a power on/off switch separate from the speed knob, or do you twist the speed knob from the "off" detent to the lowest speed setting, and up from there?

If the former, then it's possible to start the fan in its highest draw setting (PWM at 100%).  If the latter, it will always turn on at the lowest PWM value, so inrush should be well controlled (unless you slam the knob to max speed, I suppose).

In either case, the speed control may have inrush limiting as part of its design.  The best way to check this issue for sure is a DC clamp meter or series-connected ammeter with max-hold function.

Eric

 	  Quote: 	
		   On Mar 28, 2017, at 3:39 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 [SNIP]  Do these type motors really have large startup current requirements? Would it make any difference that I am running it through a PWM speed control? Like I said, I am not blowing a 5 amp fuse.

arcticarrow(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 5:01 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

This question is about USB  charging ports and radio interference/noise.

Iâ€™ve check out a couple charging ports that plug into the cigarette lighter and they both produce noise when charging. Both purchased from pilot shops.  Also tried a couple direct wire USB charging ports from marine/auto applications with the same result.  Is there any way to filter or shield these devices to reduce or eliminate the radio noise.  The noise canâ€™t be eliminated with squelch adjustment.  Iâ€™m using a hand held icom radio for the test,  it doesnâ€™t see to make any difference if the radio is 12 to 36 â€œ away from the charging port.



Thanks,

Bernie

 	  Quote: 	
		   On Mar 28, 2017, at 4:01 PM, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Ken, Some fan speed controllers put out a steady DC for several milliseconds to start a motor, then change over to PWM.  The motor might very well draw 12 amps to start, but only for a fraction of a second, too short of a time to heat up and blow a fuse.  It looks like you have answered your own question by testing.  As long as it works, it is good enough.

  Thanks for those links Charlie.  I never knew ATC circuit breakers existed.

 

 --------

 Joe Gores

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467771#467771

kjashton(at)vnet.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 5:02 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

I understand the desire for a good heater but running lean of peak minimizes the carbon monoxide



On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:32 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Charlie, it weighs 3 pounds 14 ounces, but that does not include hoses or fittings (or the additional fluid required). I estimate 5.5 pounds all told, 6 pounds maximum. The stuff that I will be removing (heater box, scat tubing, cables, etc. weighs about 3 pounds, so 2 or 3 pounds heavier the airplane will be. 



To me this is a no-brainer, as I look upon the typical method of scavenging off the exhaust as a kind of Sword of Damocles, always poised to kill you. Plus, I live in Alaska! Lots of cold weather flying, so a better heater is really appreciated.



So anyway, I got my speed control this morning. I hooked it all up and tried to blow the 5 amp fuse. I was not successful. 

I am thinking that maybe the information that I read about 12 amp startup draw is bogus. As I said, this is a permanent magnet type motor, very similar to what I have seen on computers. Does this type of motor really have large startup loads?

So now that I have tried and failed to blow the 5 amp fuse, unless this list implores me to rewire for safety, I will stick with the 20 AWG. 

I'm pretty sure Bob has said that there is no problem using a 7.5 amp fuse with 20 AWG, right? If I did blow the 5 amp, I would still have the 7.5 amp fuse option.

Ken



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 1:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

 

 On 3/28/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.

 

 I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 AWG wire.

 

 I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too much for the 20 AWG wire.

 

 The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.

 

 I guess I have two questions:

 

 1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?

 

 2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?

 

 Thanks,

 

 Ken

 	




 Somebody on another forum recently posted a link to Cooper Bussman ATC format circuit breakers. The time-to-trip vs overload percentage looks a lot like traditional circuit breakers, instead of the near-instant trip of an ATC fuse. Might be worth a look. The longer time constant should allow for momentary startup loads.

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_227_ATC_CB.pdf

 

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/circuit-protection/bus-cbt-ds-series-22x-circuit-breakers.pdf

 

 That's a really sturdy looking fan box.  What's it weigh?

 

 Charlie

 ====================================

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 Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List

 ====================================

  FORUMS -

 eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com

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           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

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clr(at)redingaviation.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 5:51 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Mar 28, 2017, at 8:58 PM, Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net (kjashton(at)vnet.net)> wrote:



I understand the desire for a good heater but running lean of peak minimizes the carbon monoxide

On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:32 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Charlie, it weighs 3 pounds 14 ounces, but that does not include hoses or fittings (or the additional fluid required). I estimate 5.5 pounds all told, 6 pounds maximum. The stuff that I will be removing (heater box, scat tubing, cables, etc. weighs about 3 pounds, so 2 or 3 pounds heavier the airplane will be. 

To me this is a no-brainer, as I look upon the typical method of scavenging off the exhaust as a kind of Sword of Damocles, always poised to kill you. Plus, I live in Alaska! Lots of cold weather flying, so a better heater is really appreciated.

So anyway, I got my speed control this morning. I hooked it all up and tried to blow the 5 amp fuse. I was not successful. 



I am thinking that maybe the information that I read about 12 amp startup draw is bogus. As I said, this is a permanent magnet type motor, very similar to what I have seen on computers. Does this type of motor really have large startup loads?



So now that I have tried and failed to blow the 5 amp fuse, unless this list implores me to rewire for safety, I will stick with the 20 AWG. 



I'm pretty sure Bob has said that there is no problem using a 7.5 amp fuse with 20 AWG, right? If I did blow the 5 amp, I would still have the 7.5 amp fuse option.



Ken

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 1:57 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote: 	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>  On 3/28/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:  	  Quote: 	
		   I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.  I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 AWG wire.  I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too much for the 20 AWG wire.  The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.  I guess I have two questions:  1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?  2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?  Thanks,  Ken 	




 Somebody on another forum recently posted a link to Cooper Bussman ATC format circuit breakers. The time-to-trip vs overload percentage looks a lot like traditional circuit breakers, instead of the near-instant trip of an ATC fuse. Might be worth a look. The longer time constant should allow for momentary startup loads. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_227_ATC_CB.pdf  http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/circuit-protection/bus-cbt-ds-series-22x-circuit-breakers.pdf  That's a really sturdy looking fan box.  What's it weigh?  Charlie ====================================  - Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List ====================================  FORUMS - eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com ==================================== WIKI - errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com ==================================== b Site -           -Matt Dralle, List Admin. rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ====================================

kenryan

Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 8:54 am Post subject: heater fan wiring

Thanks Charlie. If I ever start blowing fuses I will try these. Good to know that they exist.



Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve.

On Mar 28, 2017 2:10 PM, "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote: 	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)>

 

 On 3/28/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. It is a permanent magnet type fan. It looks like a large computer fan on steroids.

 

 I have decided to use my "defrost" circuit, which was originally going to power a couple of small, low draw computer fans. I wired it with 20 AWG wire.

 

 I would like to use the existing wiring for the fan, but I might need to put in a 12 amp fuse, and am a little concerned that might be too much for the 20 AWG wire.

 

 The wire from the bus to the switch is about 18 inches and the wire from the switch to the fan is about 24 inches.

 

 I guess I have two questions:

 

 1. What would be the largest fuse I could use and still be safe?

 

 2. If I test it and it doesn't blow a 5 amp (or 7.5 amp) fuse, do you think it would be likely to continue working indefinitely?

 

 Thanks,

 

 Ken

 	
 Somebody on another forum recently posted a link to Cooper Bussman ATC format circuit breakers. The time-to-trip vs overload percentage looks a lot like traditional circuit breakers, instead of the near-instant trip of an ATC fuse. Might be worth a look. The longer time constant should allow for momentary startup loads.

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_227_ATC_CB.pdf

 

 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/circuit-protection/bus-cbt-ds-series-22x-circuit-breakers.pdf

 

 That's a really sturdy looking fan box.  What's it weigh?

 

 Charlie

 ====================================

  -

 Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List

 ====================================

  FORUMS -

 eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 WIKI -

 errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com

 ====================================

 b Site -

 Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

stephencliverichards(at)g
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 12:08 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

Bernie  Not sure why you have put a question about USB chargers under this thread but I understand Anker products are noise free I have used a USB power drive 2 and can hold a hand held radio near this with no problem

Clive 



From: Bernie Willis (arcticarrow(at)gmail.com)

Sent: â€Ž29/â€Ž03/â€Ž2017 02:09

To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Re: heater fan wiring

--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bernie Willis <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com>



This question is about USB  charging ports and radio interference/noise.

Iâ€™ve check out a couple charging ports that plug into the cigarette lighter and they both produce noise when charging. Both purchased from pilot shops.  Also tried a couple direct wire USB charging ports from marine/auto applications with the same result.  Is there any way to filter or shield these devices to reduce or eliminate the radio noise.  The noise canâ€™t be eliminated with squelch adjustment.  Iâ€™m using a hand held icom radio for the test,  it doesnâ€™t see to make any difference if the radio is 12 to 36 â€œ away from the charging port.



Thanks,

Bernie

 	  Quote: 	
		   On Mar 28, 2017, at 4:01 PM, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>

 

 Ken, Some fan speed controllers put out a steady DC for several milliseconds to start a motor, then change over to PWM.  The motor might very well draw 12 amps to start, but only for a fraction of a second, too short of a time to heat up and blow a fuse.  It looks like you have answered your own question by testing.  As long as it works, it is good enough.

  Thanks for those links Charlie.  I never knew ATC circuit breakers existed.

 

 --------

 Joe Gores

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467771#467771

 

 

 

sp;          - MATRONICS WEB F        - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
	


_=            p;            &=======

ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 12:35 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

Also, try SteinAir. They sell one       that's supposed to be noise free.

       

       On 3/29/2017 2:57 PM, Stephen Richards wrote:

     

      	  Quote: 	
		                         BernieÂ            Not sure why you have put a question about USB chargers under           this thread but I understand Anker products are noise free I           have used a USB power drive 2 and can hold a hand held radio           near this with no problem

           Clive 

       

                From: Bernie             Willis (arcticarrow(at)gmail.com)

         Sent: â€Ž29/â€Ž03/â€Ž2017 02:09

         To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)

         Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List:           Re: heater fan wiring

         

       

       --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bernie Willis       <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com> (arcticarrow(at)gmail.com)

       

       This question is about USBÂ  charging ports and radio       interference/noise.

       Iâ€™ve check out a couple charging ports that plug into the       cigarette lighter and they both produce noise when charging. Both       purchased from pilot shops.Â  Also tried a couple direct wire USB       charging ports from marine/auto applications with the same       result.Â  Is there any way to filter or shield these devices to       reduce or eliminate the radio noise.Â  The noise canâ€™t be       eliminated with squelch adjustment.Â  Iâ€™m using a hand held icom       radio for the test,Â  it doesnâ€™t see to make any difference if the       radio is 12 to 36 â€œ away from the charging port.

       

       Thanks,

       Bernie

       > On Mar 28, 2017, at 4:01 PM, user9253       <fransew(at)gmail.com> (fransew(at)gmail.com) wrote:

       > 

       > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253"       <fransew(at)gmail.com> (fransew(at)gmail.com)

       > 

       > Ken, Some fan speed controllers put out a steady DC for       several milliseconds to start a motor, then change over to PWM.Â        The motor might very well draw 12 amps to start, but only for a       fraction of a second, too short of a time to heat up and blow a       fuse.Â  It looks like you have answered your own question by       testing.Â  As long as it works, it is good enough.

       >Â  Thanks for those links Charlie.Â  I never knew ATC circuit       breakers existed.

       > 

       > --------

       > Joe Gores

       > 

       > 

       > 

       > 

       > Read this topic online here:

       > 

       > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467771#467771

       > 

       > 

       > 

       sp;Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  - MATRONICS WEB FÂ Â Â Â Â Â Â  - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -

       _=Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â p;Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â &=======

jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 2:17 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

+1 on the Anker "aux port" chargers. They also make great USB and

Lightning cables, including 6-foot lengths.



Jim Parker

------

nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:27 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

At 02:49 PM 3/28/2017, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  I am building a cabin heater (Rotax) and the fan draws 4.3 amps. I have read that on startup it can draw 12 amps. 	


   This will be for milliseconds during spin-up . . . leave

   the 20AWG in place and go with 10A fuse . . . it's probably

   going to be fine.



 

 

   Bob . . .

nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:27 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

At 04:12 PM 3/28/2017, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>



 I would try a 7.5 amp fuse.  I usually prefer fuses.  But for a motor,

  a circuit breaker will not nuisance trip as easily.  Some day the motor

  bearings will freeze up.  If fused higher and the motor draws 12 amps continuously,

  the wire will then get hot enough to boil water. 	


   Actually, 20AWG is pretty 'cool' at 12A. See

   

  http://tinyurl.com/lk2tmhx



   If a 22AWG at 20A just barely passes 100C in free

   air . . . a 20AWG at 12A is pretty safe.



   A 10A fuse would be fine . . .



 

   Bob . . .

kenryan

Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426

Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:50 pm Post subject: heater fan wiring

Great! Thanks.



Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve.

On Mar 29, 2017 4:35 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote: 	  Quote: 	
		    At 04:12 PM 3/28/2017, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com (fransew(at)gmail.com)>



 I would try a 7.5 amp fuse.Â  I usually prefer fuses.Â  But for a motor,

 Â a circuit breaker will not nuisance trip as easily.Â  Some day the motor

 Â bearings will freeze up.Â  If fused higher and the motor draws 12 amps continuously,

 Â the wire will then get hot enough to boil water. 	


 Â  Actually, 20AWG is pretty 'cool' at 12A. See

 Â  

  http://tinyurl.com/lk2tmhx



 Â  If a 22AWG at 20A just barely passes 100C in free

 Â  air . . . a 20AWG at 12A is pretty safe.



 Â  A 10A fuse would be fine . . .



 

 Â  Bob . . .

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