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n8vim(at)arrl.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:11 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are 

already passed this particular level of hell.



My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

tail fairings and wingtips?

I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?



-Jim 40384

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2881

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:47 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

You will go through a LOT of West System stuff throughout the

project.  If I'd have known earlier, I would have ordered at least

the mid-sized cans...but instead I had lots of orders of the small

sized cans.



This was what I started with:

Quantity

(2) of 105-A (1qt resin)

(2) 205-A (hardener),

(1) 300 Mini Pump Set A,

(1) 403 Microfibers,

(1) 406 Colloidal Silica,

(1) 410 Microlight.



My total was ~ $125.

Use 406 for Thickening (white)

Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler



You will likely use a lot of 410, and you'll use the 406 a lot when

you're working on the canopy, but not the tip fairings.  The 403

is not used as often but is a cheap filler.  I would at least start

with the above list, but maybe up the quantity right away to 2 of the

410's.



I think by the time I was all done, I probably used 5 or 6 cans

of resin and hardener, probably 1 or 2 403's, at least 2 406's,

and 3 or maybe even 4 of the 410's.  I'm sure with good efficiency

you can finish a plane with less, but I did many batches and did

lots of filling on things like the canopy doorposts and stuff

that made it turn out nice and smooth.  The 410 will be fantastic

stuff for filling the fiberglass tips and surface dings.  Better

than bondo type stuff most of the time.  For cloth, you will

need some of the E-Glass for under the windshield area, but

there isn't a lot of need for other cloths in most cases, unless

you're going beyond the plans, which some people do.



As far as the slow or fast, I can't remember which step it was,

the windshield fairing or the doors, but there was at least

one time when it was nice to have the opposite of what I

listed above.  I think that's 206 if I remember right.  But

I only had one can of that.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

James Hein wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are 

 already passed this particular level of hell.

 

 My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

 tail fairings and wingtips?

 I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

 it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?

 

 -Jim 40384

rv10builder(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:50 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Check this out:



http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html



Brian

#40308

James Hein wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you 

 are already passed this particular level of hell.



 My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

 tail fairings and wingtips?

 I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

 it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?



 -Jim 40384



 .

bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:22 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old.

  

 Bruce Patton

 ---

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 3:15 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Use West System 401 Filler.  It is a brown color, light weight filler  

that sands well.  4oz. weight cloth should take care of all your non  

structural needs.  If you need something heavier, you can add several  

layers.



do not archive.



On Feb 17, 2007, at 11:07 AM, James Hein wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you  

 are already passed this particular level of hell.



 My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing  

 the tail fairings and wingtips?

 I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order  

 with it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or  

 fast)?



 -Jim 40384

LarryRosen

Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:10 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Popsicle sticks

Those metal brushes that plumbers use

plastic squeegees that are use with bondo

consider glass bubbles, cab-o-sil and flocked cotton in lieu of the West 

fillers.

Lots of sand paper

Consider Perma-Grit sanding blocks.  Contour Block, flat sanding block 

with fine on one side and course on the other, they also have bits that 

can go in your die grinder.

Larry

#356

Rob Kermanj wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Use West System 401 Filler.  It is a brown color, light weight filler 

 that sands well.  4oz. weight cloth should take care of all your non 

 structural needs.  If you need something heavier, you can add several 

 layers.

 do not archive.

 On Feb 17, 2007, at 11:07 AM, James Hein wrote:

> 

>

> I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you 

> are already passed this particular level of hell.

>

> My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

> tail fairings and wingtips?

> I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

> it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?

>

> -Jim 40384

>

>

_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>

LarryRosen

Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:13 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Popsicle sticks

Those metal brushes that plumbers use

plastic squeegees that are use with bondo

consider glass bubbles, cab-o-sil and flocked cotton in lieu of the West 

fillers.

Lots of sand paper

Consider Perma-Grit sanding blocks.  Contour Block, flat sanding block 

with fine on one side and course on the other, they also have bits that 

can go in your die grinder.

Larry

#356

Rob Kermanj wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Use West System 401 Filler.  It is a brown color, light weight filler 

 that sands well.  4oz. weight cloth should take care of all your non 

 structural needs.  If you need something heavier, you can add several 

 layers.

 do not archive.

 On Feb 17, 2007, at 11:07 AM, James Hein wrote:

> 

>

> I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you 

> are already passed this particular level of hell.

>

> My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

> tail fairings and wingtips?

> I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

> it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?

>

> -Jim 40384

>

>

_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>

LarryRosen

Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:18 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Popsicle sticks

Those metal brushes that plumbers use

plastic squeegees that are use with bondo

consider glass bubbles, cab-o-sil and flocked cotton in lieu of the West 

fillers.

Lots of sand paper

Consider Perma-Grit sanding blocks.  Contour Block, flat sanding block 

with fine on one side and course on the other, they also have bits that 

can go in your die grinder.

Larry

#356

Rob Kermanj wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Use West System 401 Filler.  It is a brown color, light weight filler 

 that sands well.  4oz. weight cloth should take care of all your non 

 structural needs.  If you need something heavier, you can add several 

 layers.

 do not archive.

 On Feb 17, 2007, at 11:07 AM, James Hein wrote:

> 

>

> I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you 

> are already passed this particular level of hell.

>

> My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

> tail fairings and wingtips?

> I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

> it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?

>

> -Jim 40384

>

>

_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:57 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Good info there!  I might add ...... the rotary cutter can be had from 

any good crafts store.  While you're there, get a box of popsicle sticks 

.... works better than the tongue depressors.  For squeegees, I use old 

plastic credit cards, hotel room cards ..... you get the picture.

Linn

new owner of 40118



rv10builder wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Check this out:



 http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html



 Brian

 #40308

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:02 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding.  The epoxies are unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface and produces the 'shine'.  I've not had any problems adding epoxy resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between.  But then I just may have been lucky!   

 Linn

 Bruce Patton wrote:

 [quote]         That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old.

   Bruce Patton

   ----- Original Message ----

 From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> (rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net)

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

 Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM

 Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

   --> RV10-List message posted by: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> (rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net)

 Check this out:

   http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html

 Brian

 #40308

 James Hein wrote:

 > --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> (n8vim(at)arrl.net)

 >

 > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you 

 > are already passed this particular level of hell.

 >

 > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

 > tail fairings and wingtips?

 > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

 > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?

 >

 > -Jim 40384

 >

 >

 >

 > sp;       - The RV10-List Email Forum -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li          - NEW MATRONICS===

    	  Quote: 	

 [b]

zackrv8

Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 133

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:13 pm Post subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommen

Jim,



  In addition to what everyone else stated, one of the best tools that you can own while working with fiberglass is a good air sander.  After 7 years and many, many paint jobs, I highly recommend the  Dual Action (DA)AirVantage sander.  It is bullet proof and very easy to use.

    

                   (http://www.autobodystore.com/tools.htm).



   A good air sander will knock down the epoxy and fiberglass very easily in no time with the right grit on it.  I recommend a box of each...40, 80, 120, 220, and 320.  These grits are just for the fiberglass and primer work.  Painting is a different story!



Zack



 	  n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote: 	
		  I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are 

already passed this particular level of hell.



My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the 

tail fairings and wingtips?

I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with 

it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?



-Jim 40384

_________________
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512

mattreeves(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:53 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Jim,

   

  Bruce is right.  I built a Lancair and taught my brother all I know about fiberglass for his RV-7A.  The number 1 thing to remember is cleanliness.  Lance - designer of Lancair always said, "If it ain't clean, it ain't gunna stick."  You MUST scratch up good the area that needs to be bonded and I mean with 40-80 grit and then vacuum it good, then acetone or MEK with a clean cloth, then sand 40-80 grit again (because wiping with acetone may have spread dirt or residue into the scratches).   Use a paint brush and paint some mixed up resin onto the clean scratched up surface.  Not a lot, just enough to get it wet.

   

  (This should already be done and waiting) - Fiberglass is a woven cloth.  You'll almost always use the weave like small XXX's to get the most strength - what this means when you unravel the roll of fiberglass you get from Aircraft Spruce or  wherever, you will cut strips of it on a 45 degree angle - ususally about 2 inches wide - or whatever you need)  Do the layup as the link suggests - although I don't use a sponge to saturate, I just pour it on there and spread it out with my paint brush - I think the sponge might offer some contaminates but whatever works.  Put plastic on the top and I use a long screw I got from Home Depot but Aircraft Spruce now has a tool that looks like a miniature rolling pin but it's grooved like a screw.  Get it.  Don't push too hard or not hard enough.  You just want to squeeze out excess resin - that's it - if it gets white, you took out too much resin - put more back in.  When you apply the sandwich, make sure  you peel off the plastic.  Sounds stupid but EVERYONE has done it.  Use a colored plastic to remind you.   When applied, use your long 4-6 inch screw or tool from ACS and push out as many air bubbles as you can without  pushing out too much resin.  You can do you over and over.  If it's starting to cure, and you can't push out anymore, I use a pin to poke the air bubble until it escapes.

   

  I had a reaction to West System and switched to Jeffco which Aircraft Spruce sells.  It is clear to greenish and has no smell.  I like it better.  The MOST important thing is the mixing ratio has to be perfect.  After you have your mixture,  you can do whatever you want with it - saturate the cloth, mix up micro, flox, or whatever.  There are no set amounts of the fillers so if you want micro wet and runny, use less - if you want strength and less pinholes, use 90% micro bubbles and 10% cabosil - which looks like sugar but it contains some particles to prevent micro from sagging on vertical surfaces, but it also helps prevent pinholes somewhat.  

   

  You will always have pinholes.  There is some  cool new stuff now called rage that is a cool filler guaranteed not to have pinholes but you'll still get a few.

   

  You asked about slow and fast hardeners.  Use slow until you get the hang of it.  But definately the factor on both is temperature.  70-75 is ideal.  Never let mixed up resin sit around while you do something else.  It will exotherm or boil and gets hot, smokes, and stinks.  When you mix it up, get to it.  There is no stopping resin from curing so if the phone rings, forget it - even if it's the Million dollar sweepstakes notifying you are a winner!

   

  Have a garbage can ready.  Acetone will clean up messes pretty good.  

   

  There's a thousand things I could tell you.  Making the layup is just one step.  Filling it is a whole other ball game.  Never use filler over cured fiberglass without sanding and cleaning just as  before - this time using about 120-180 grit.  Make sure the clear appearance is gone.  Clean with acetone, sand, vacuum and paint wet resin and apply filler.  I use a razor blade to push it down into all the holes well without a lot of left over sanding to do.  

   

  Here's a trick to save you some time.  Use peel-ply exactly like a layer of glass.  Make sure you have it on the TOP and not the bottom when you apply the layup.  When cured, simply peel it off and no sanding or cleaning is necessary to apply more layers of fiberglass OR apply filler - still paint a thin layer of wet resin on it though if you need to fill.

   

  When mostly done, ONLY use 3M foam sanding blocks.   Spray glue 100-180 grit to it.  I'd use at least a 1 foot block and no less than 6 inches.   Spray some crappy black spray paint on it - let it dry and sand at 45 degrees and then 90.   You are looking for high and low spots.  You will sand off high and the paint will show the low.  Don't ruin the fiberglass by sanding too low just to get rid of the low spots.  Sand and fill those spots with micro - micro/flox if they are deeper.

   

  Anyway, I hope this helps a little.  My brother Danny (RV-7A) has a nice write up and description of the entire process with good pictures and it has some good pointers.  I'll find that and send it to you too.

   

  Good luck.

   

  WEAR a mask.

   

  Matt Reeves

  Rochester, NY  



Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> wrote:

  [quote]        That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old.

   

  Bruce Patton

  ---

mattreeves(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:57 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Here's an AWESOME link I promised.

   

  Very well written.  Definately applies to RV's too.

   

  Have a great day.

   

   

  FINISHING A COMPOSITE AIRPLANE LINK:

  http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/finish.html

  



linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:

  [quote]The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding.  The epoxies are unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface and produces the 'shine'.  I've not had any problems adding epoxy resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between.  But then I just may have been lucky!   

Linn



Bruce Patton wrote:

  [quote]        That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old.

   

  Bruce Patton

  ---

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:08 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

In defense of smaller packaging.  Reduced contamination, reduced

oxidation with the larger lid being open, possible tighter inventor

control within the Limitation Date, space management in a small garage.



However, knowing what is needed is highly valuable.  Thanks for the

inventory report.



John Cox

Dreaming of Flying



--

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:32 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Visit your local TAP plastics store.  They have a waste box (near their

scale)with a cheap source of PVC, Acrylic, Lexan, Cutting board material

and HDPE, Release Film is valuable to buy as well.  It is amazing the

things that can be made as tools from scrap.  It's usually about $0.50

per pound.  I have an assortment of cutting board plastic which astounds

the guys at work.  The word is always the same "Where did you get,

That?".



When doing composites, there are lots of shortcuts to the Masters or PHD

of sanding.



John Cox

--

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:37 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

The best tool is a comfortable fitting face mask.  Even if your sander

has a discharge bag it can help those respiratory issues at night and

down the road.



Always wear approved barrier gloves with MEK.  Clean prudently and

often.  We actually wear a Tyvek (painter's) Bunny Suit to keep the

waste dust off our daily duds.  Of course we cut the booties off cause

they are such a pain.



We also have a cheap vacuum which has been sacrificed for only composite

work.  The stuff that comes out is disgusting material you would not

want down your windpipe.



Don't forget to read Andy Marshall's Book.



John Cox

--

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Matt, after thirty years of car restoration and yes, aircraft painting.  I can clearly endorse your below post as a treatise for a “Masters in Fiberglas” in 1,000 words or less (935 to be exact).  

   

RV-10 builders should use this as a roadmap to their diploma’s as well.  They may have a little trouble with visualization of some of the products right now, but in time, they will go Wow, “Matt really knew his stuff”.  

   

Lance was right, if it’s not Clean it won’t stick.  If the air is too humid, it won’t stick. 70-75 the porridge should be just right.  That is air temperature and the temperature of the resin.  

     

John Cox 

 

   

        

  

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Reeves

 Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 5:53 PM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?  

  

     

Jim,  

    

   

    

Bruce is right.  I built a Lancair and taught my brother all I know about fiberglass for his RV-7A.  The number 1 thing to remember is cleanliness.  Lance - designer of Lancair always said, "If it ain't clean, it ain't gunna stick."  You MUST scratch up good the area that needs to be bonded and I mean with 40-80 grit and then vacuum it good, then acetone or MEK with a clean cloth, then sand 40-80 grit again (because wiping with acetone may have spread dirt or residue into the scratches).   Use a paint brush and paint some mixed up resin onto the clean scratched up surface.  Not a lot, just enough to get it wet.  

    

   

    

(This should already be done and waiting) - Fiberglass is a woven cloth.  You'll almost always use the weave like small XXX's to get the most strength - what this means when you unravel the roll of fiberglass you get from Aircraft Spruce or wherever, you will cut strips of it on a 45 degree angle - ususally about 2 inches wide - or whatever you need)  Do the layup as the link suggests - although I don't use a sponge to saturate, I just pour it on there and spread it out with my paint brush - I think the sponge might offer some contaminates but whatever works.  Put plastic on the top and I use a long screw I got from Home Depot but Aircraft Spruce now has a tool that looks like a miniature rolling pin but it's grooved like a screw.  Get it.  Don't push too hard or not hard enough.  You just want to squeeze out excess resin - that's it - if it gets white, you took out too much resin - put more back in.  When you apply the sandwich, make sure  you peel off the plastic.  Sounds stupid but EVERYONE has done it.  Use a colored plastic to remind you.   When applied, use your long 4-6 inch screw or tool from ACS and push out as many air bubbles as you can without pushing out too much resin.  You can do you over and over.  If it's starting to cure, and you can't push out anymore, I use a pin to poke the air bubble until it escapes.  

    

   

    

I had a reaction to West System and switched to Jeffco which Aircraft Spruce sells.  It is clear to greenish and has no smell.  I like it better.  The MOST important thing is the mixing ratio has to be perfect.  After you have your mixture,  you can do whatever you want with it - saturate the cloth, mix up micro, flox, or whatever.  There are no set amounts of the fillers so if you want micro wet and runny, use less - if you want strength and less pinholes, use 90% micro bubbles and 10% cabosil - which looks like sugar but it contains some particles to prevent micro from sagging on vertical surfaces, but it also helps prevent pinholes somewhat.    

    

   

    

You will always have pinholes.  There is some cool new stuff now called rage that is a cool filler guaranteed not to have pinholes but you'll still get a few.  

    

   

    

You asked about slow and fast hardeners.  Use slow until you get the hang of it.  But definately the factor on both is temperature.  70-75 is ideal.  Never let mixed up resin sit around while you do something else.  It will exotherm or boil and gets hot, smokes, and stinks.  When you mix it up, get to it.  There is no stopping resin from curing so if the phone rings, forget it - even if it's the Million dollar sweepstakes notifying you are a winner!  

    

   

    

Have a garbage can ready.  Acetone will clean up messes pretty good.    

    

   

    

There's a thousand things I could tell you.  Making the layup is just one step.  Filling it is a whole other ball game.  Never use filler over cured fiberglass without sanding and cleaning just as before - this time using about 120-180 grit.  Make sure the clear appearance is gone.  Clean with acetone, sand, vacuum and paint wet resin and apply filler.  I use a razor blade to push it down into all the holes well without a lot of left over sanding to do.    

    

   

    

Here's a trick to save you some time.  Use peel-ply exactly like a layer of glass.  Make sure you have it on the TOP and not the bottom when you apply the layup.  When cured, simply peel it off and no sanding or cleaning is necessary to apply more layers of fiberglass OR apply filler - still paint a thin layer of wet resin on it though if you need to fill.  

    

   

    

When mostly done, ONLY use 3M foam sanding blocks.   Spray glue 100-180 grit to it.  I'd use at least a 1 foot block and no less than 6 inches.   Spray some crappy black spray paint on it - let it dry and sand at 45 degrees and then 90.  You are looking for high and low spots.  You will sand off high and the paint will show the low.  Don't ruin the fiberglass by sanding too low just to get rid of the low spots.  Sand and fill those spots with micro - micro/flox if they are deeper.  

    

   

    

Anyway, I hope this helps a little.  My brother Danny (RV-7A) has a nice write up and description of the entire process with good pictures and it has some good pointers.  I'll find that and send it to you too.  

    

   

    

Good luck.  

    

   

    

WEAR a mask.  

    

   

    

Matt Reeves  

    

Rochester, NY  

 

 Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> wrote:  

  [quote]      

That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old.  

    

   

    

Bruce Patton  

     	  Quote: 	
		   	


  

  

  [b]

n8vim(at)arrl.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:59 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Thank you all for responding, especially Tim and Matt Reeves; I truly 

find all the information very helpful indeed.



I will probably buy a quart kit to start so I don't have too much 

material sitting around (I haven't even ordered the fuselage kit yet... 

need more $$$).



I have no idea what a TAP plastics store is, so I'll just do some 

dumpster diving at work where the prototype shop has all sorts of 

plastics, lexan, etc. in various thicknesses.



One advantage I may have in this particular level of hell is a coworker 

who seems to LOVE fiberglass work, and actually wants to help with my 

wingtips! I think he's inhaled too much of the stuff myself (j/k)! I 

want to do the smal fairings myself to get an idea of what I'm doing first.



In other news, I have a fantastic way to mount the tail strobe! I will 

send a procedure with pictures to Tim and the list when I'm done (should 

be later today for those chomping at the bit).



-Jim 40384 Wing skins all riveted! (noit much left to do... all control 

surfaces and pushrods are already done)



Matt Reeves wrote:



[quote] Here's an AWESOME link I promised.

  

 Very well written.  Definately applies to RV's too.

  

 Have a great day.

  

  

 FINISHING A COMPOSITE AIRPLANE LINK:

 http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/finish.html

 */linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>/* wrote:



     The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not

     cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding.  The epoxies are

     unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface

     and produces the 'shine'.  I've not had any problems adding epoxy

     resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between.  But then I just

     may have been lucky! 

     Linn



     Bruce Patton wrote:



>     That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass.  The think that

>     keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part

>     that to which the fiberglass will be applied.   Without that, you

>     may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals

>     off the old.

>      

>     Bruce Patton

>

>     ---

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:53 am Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

http://www.tapplastics.com/



dumpster diving is exactly what I was doing, it was just a plastic box

and pennies on the dollar.



John Cox

--

rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:52 pm Post subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?

Too bad they are only on the far west coast.



Michael

Do not archive



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