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KBelue(at)drs-tem.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:18 am Post subject: Rudder Trailing Edge Countersinking |
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Paul,
I'm building an RV-10 and my spacer TE holes were larger after
countersinking, but I didn't worry about it. The holes have to be larger
because the wedge is thin, causing the countersinks to cut into each other
from each side. The dimples/holes in the skins that go on top of this are
the proper size and will clamp the wedge in place (the proseal helps with
this). If you dimple the skin and countersink the wedge per the plans there
is no way around this, so I didn't see it as a problem
Kevin D. Belue
RV-6A Flying 700hrs
RV-10 Fuselage/Finish kit
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lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:16 am Post subject: Rudder Trailing Edge Countersinking |
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Last night I successfully riveted the trailing edge of the rudder using the hand ground angled rivet set.
I glued the edges together with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive (white alcohol clean-up) 5 days ago, and clecoed the rudder to an aluminum angle. I inserted rivets in alternate holes, clamped the aluminum angle with side grips to keep the edges straight and act as a back-up bar, and hand squeezed the rivets with a straight rivet set until the set just touched the rudder skin. This squeezed 4 layers of metal. I then finished the squeeze with the angled set using the same setting pressure for all the rivets. A straight set was in contact with the factory head and all the angle was placed on the shop head.
I inserted the second half of the rivets facing the opposite direction and stood the rudder with the trailing edge up. I the squeezed these rivets with the angled set in one squeeze. The rivets set straight and did not buckle to the side as the pressure was straight on the rivet axis. The trailing edge is straight, and only took about an hour start to finish..
My thoughts are: Gluing the trailing edge with a straight edge helps maintaining alignment. I suspect the secret to maintain a straight edge is uniform rivet pressure (harder to do with driven rivets, at least with my skill level). I am now wondering if using a universal set would work as well leaving a rounded head in the dimple. If I had a 3/32 universal set I would have tried one to see.
This is becoming more fun actually finishing components!!
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
Idaho Falls
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matronics(at)cencula.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:34 pm Post subject: Rudder Trailing Edge Countersinking |
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Hi guys,
(second and third paragraph have suggestions for improvement)
I recently did the rudder for my RV7 (which is the same rudder as on the RV9).
It had the predrilled aluminum extrusion (AEX) wedge and prepunched skins. I
match drilled them, dimpled the skins, and created a simple jig for c-sinking
the AEX wedge. The AEX holes did get enlarged, but the dimpled skins fit
well.
When I prosealed the skins together, the dimples from one skin hit the dimples
from the other skin causing the skin to bulge slightly apart at each rivet.
It's counterintuitive...you would think that the skins would be pinched
tighter at the rivets. The end result is that if you place your fingers on
either side of the trailing edge and run them along the length of the rudder,
you can feel a little bulge at each rivet.
If I were going to do this again, I would do everything the same as before,
but I would file down the dimples just a little to allow the two skins to
actually sit flat against the AEX wedge instead of the dimples hitting each
other and causing these slight bulges.
I followed the instructions in the manual exactly. By back riveting halfway
and then setting with a mushroom set, the rivets came out really well. It's
hard to keep from bending the rivet over, so I probably drilled out 1/3 of
the rivets and put them in a second time so they all look good.
Good luck,
Mike Cencula
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