rv10builder(at)bellsouth.
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 Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:04 pm Post subject: Grounding Questions |
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Opinions on this differ - that's O.K. I chose to run a #2 from the battery
negative post to the island of tabs on the cabin side of the firewall. The
carry through bolt terminates this lead and the braided lead to the
crankcase on the engine side. Remember that during cranking you are working
at a disadvantage; the battery isn't supplying 14V and the return path has
the starter solenoid and battery contactor in line adding additional circuit
path resistance (BTW - you may recall that in electronics 101 that current
flows from negative to positive). Having a complete low resistance path
helps deliver the current needed to crank the engine on a frosty morning.
As for the rest of my electronics they each have an appropriately sized
battery and corresponding battery return to a single point ground. The
weight of 18 gauge wire is negligible compared to other RV-10 options.
If I was starting from scratch I would likely go with CCA (copper clad
aluminum) instead of the stranded #2 to save weight but would still run the
lead.
FYI - here is a link to a presentation I prepared for my EAA chapter that
contains brief information for sizing wires (along with some other
information I hope you find useful).
http://www.eaa162.org/cmsmadesimple/uploads/experimental_electrical.pdf
FWIW - I'm a fan of 'lectric Bob (I'm a sparky in my day job).
Brian
N104BS (160 hours)
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