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deej(at)deej.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:49 am Post subject: Panel mounted USB power ports for Apple devices? |
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On 8/4/2014 10:32 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
The technology is mature . . . 2 and 3 are relatively
low value risks. But one can spend a lot of hammer-n-tongs
effort making a 'clean' and robust installation. Condider
products tailored to the task like these
http://tinyurl.com/m8kfz6h
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FYI, I installed this very unit in my aircraft, only to find out that it
does not have the proper resistors installed for the iPad to charge (I
note now that the listing has a reference "can't be used for iphone"
which was not there when I bought mine).
I ended up hacking the end of the iPad's USB cable to add the resistors
(actually I added a micro-sized potentiometer adjusted to the proper
resistance), which is now dedicated to the airplane, and it charges the
ipad just fine.
Not difficult, but not as "clean" an installation as I had originally
envisioned.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
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deej(at)deej.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:17 am Post subject: Panel mounted USB power ports for Apple devices? |
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On 8/4/2014 11:49 AM, Dj Merrill wrote:
Quote: | I ended up hacking the end of the iPad's USB cable to add the
resistors (actually I added a micro-sized potentiometer adjusted to
the proper resistance), which is now dedicated to the airplane, and it
charges the ipad just fine.
Not difficult, but not as "clean" an installation as I had originally
envisioned.
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I had an inquiry about how I did this and thought I would share with the
group.
The micro-sized potentiometer I grabbed from my junk bin and don't
remember the exact value, probably 100 ohms or 1K. It isn't critical.
Here is the guide I used:
http://www.instructables.com/id/THE-Simplest-iPod-iPad-iPhone-charger-circuit/?ALLSTEPS
You'll want to read through it for the general idea. I used the "trim
pot" method shown in step 4.
If you are using the power supply that Bob sent out
(http://tinyurl.com/m8kfz6h), all you need is the the trim pot, and none
of the other parts mentioned in the article.
All you are doing is connecting the middle connection on the trim pot to
pins 2 and 3 of the USB cable, and the other two pins on the trim pot go
to pin 1 and pin 4 respectively. Then adjust the trim pot until you get
a value of 2 volts between the center pin on the trim pot and pin 4 on
the USB (which is GND).
The right half of this diagram sums it up nicely:
http://cdn.instructables.com/FOD/L2X9/HJKBMVWW/FODL2X9HJKBMVWW.LARGE.jpg
I added this to the USB cable itself rather than the power supply
because the power supply and plugs are all molded plastic and there
wasn't an easy way to get inside without making a mess. The USB cable
simply had a plastic cover that slid back along the cable and was much
easier to work with. When I was finished adjusting the trim pot I put
some heat shrink over the entire assembly (USB cable, connector,
potentiometer and all) so it is sealed up and won't be accidentally turned.
This is similar to the micro-potentiometer that I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Horizontal-PCB-Mount-Micro-Potentiometer-Japan-VTG-271-280-Archer-Radio-Shack-/191238164441
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
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