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gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 2:36 pm Post subject: Alternator failure. Info provided (stop) |
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Quote: | From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net (mstewart(at)iss.net)>
After 250 hours my 14684 ND alternator finally gave way.
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Well you got some questionable advice for professionals?
14684 is a standard Lester number everyone knows.
A quick search or auto part store web sites like
Rockauto.com and others sites the 14684.
It is common on the
1988-87) Chevrolet Sprint 1.0L
(1995-86) Suzuki Samurai 1.3L
(1989) Suzuki Sidekick 1.3L
14870? I might believe a #14937 as an alternator but what
is a 14870?
As far as finding parts for a 14684, parts are available, however
I would not let them work on it. To be honest you are better
trading it in and getting another unit. It does have core value.
Local rebuilds by local shops I have found in my experience are
not to great. You can't beat a lifetime warranty from the parts
store on a rebuild. You can get it rebuilt (by a shop that knows
how to buy parts) but I would get an estimate and good guarantee.
By the time a local auto electrics buys the part, marks it up
2 or 4 times and charges labor, it will be cheaper and better
to get a rebuild from Pop Boys or Auto Zone. Not all rebuilds
from auto stores are good either. I would suggest investing
in a Plane Power alternator ($375)
Don't feel bad about finding a replacement on the road. You
should have much less problem but it is worse with a B&C
unit for example. That can not be field replace or repaired,
since it is a custom unit.
I am surprised the stator is fried, what ever that means.
***FIELD WIRE IS NOT ON YOUR UNIT***
ALSO, Please don't cycle the ALT switch (power to the
IGN wire) On and Off on the alternator while it is spinning,
i.e., making power.
Field Wires are for alternators with external voltage regulators,
period. FIELD refers to changing the voltage of the field to provide
control of the output voltage. The field is the rotor windings. So
the more voltage in the rotor winding to more output. THIS IS
not how the internal regulator control wire works in a ND alternator.
The wire on a ND with I-VR is an on off signal only.
You do have a field but it is all internal to the unit.
The ND alternator does not have FIELD wire, it's a IGN wire. The
function is to tell the alternative to wake up, to go to work or
go to sleep after you turn the engine off. IT'S NOT made to turn it
ON and OFF while under load. Does you car have a ALT switch?
NO. You will burn the regulator out eventually if you keep that
operation up. The IGN lead is a low current ON and OFF signal
and nothing more. The current is low, unlike a true field wire
which might have 5 amps or more going thru it.
You do have a field but it is all internal to the unit.
There is no reason cycle the alternator ON/OFF. MASTER
and ALT on one DPST switch is a good idea so you are not
tempted to do this.
Since you IGN wire (which only needs well under 1 amp) is
protected with a pull-able CB (or should be), you can pull the
CB if you need to for a non-normal situation where you want
to remove power from the IGN wire with the MASTER ON.
Again alternator on before engine start and remains on until
the engine stops turning.
Here are the Niagara instructions which will help. As I said
make the CB's pull-able. The Niagara unit is a similar ND
alternator.
http://www.niagaraairparts.com/alt-instr.pdf
Cheers George M.
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on [url=http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=41244/*http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index] Yahoo! Small Business.[/url]
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endspeed(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 3:21 pm Post subject: Alternator failure. Info provided (stop) |
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Hi George,
After reading your post I was left wondering why
bother having a field switch at all in this type of
alternator. Is there a reason to have a field switch?
Bob Sultzbach
--- gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
Quote: | >From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart(at)iss.net>
>After 250 hours my 14684 ND alternator finally gave
way.
Well you got some questionable advice for
professionals?
14684 is a standard Lester number everyone knows.
A quick search or auto part store web sites like
Rockauto.com and others sites the 14684.
It is common on the
1988-87) Chevrolet Sprint 1.0L
(1995-86) Suzuki Samurai 1.3L
(1989) Suzuki Sidekick 1.3L
14870? I might believe a #14937 as an alternator but
what
is a 14870?
As far as finding parts for a 14684, parts are
available, however
I would not let them work on it. To be honest you
are better
trading it in and getting another unit. It does have
core value.
Local rebuilds by local shops I have found in my
experience are
not to great. You can't beat a lifetime warranty
from the parts
store on a rebuild. You can get it rebuilt (by a
shop that knows
how to buy parts) but I would get an estimate and
good guarantee.
By the time a local auto electrics buys the part,
marks it up
2 or 4 times and charges labor, it will be cheaper
and better
to get a rebuild from Pop Boys or Auto Zone. Not all
rebuilds
from auto stores are good either. I would suggest
investing
in a Plane Power alternator ($375)
Don't feel bad about finding a replacement on the
road. You
should have much less problem but it is worse with a
B&C
unit for example. That can not be field replace or
repaired,
since it is a custom unit.
I am surprised the stator is fried, what ever that
means.
***FIELD WIRE IS NOT ON YOUR UNIT***
ALSO, Please don't cycle the ALT switch (power to
the
IGN wire) On and Off on the alternator while it is
spinning,
i.e., making power.
Field Wires are for alternators with external
voltage regulators,
period. FIELD refers to changing the voltage of the
field to provide
control of the output voltage. The field is the
rotor windings. So
the more voltage in the rotor winding to more
output. THIS IS
not how the internal regulator control wire works in
a ND alternator.
The wire on a ND with I-VR is an on off signal
only.
You do have a field but it is all internal to the
unit.
The ND alternator does not have FIELD wire, it's a
IGN wire. The
function is to tell the alternative to wake up, to
go to work or
go to sleep after you turn the engine off. IT'S NOT
made to turn it
ON and OFF while under load. Does you car have a ALT
switch?
NO. You will burn the regulator out eventually if
you keep that
operation up. The IGN lead is a low current ON and
OFF signal
and nothing more. The current is low, unlike a true
field wire
which might have 5 amps or more going thru it.
You do have a field but it is all internal to the
unit.
There is no reason cycle the alternator ON/OFF.
MASTER
and ALT on one DPST switch is a good idea so you
are not
tempted to do this.
Since you IGN wire (which only needs well under 1
amp) is
protected with a pull-able CB (or should be), you
can pull the
CB if you need to for a non-normal situation where
you want
to remove power from the IGN wire with the MASTER
ON.
Again alternator on before engine start and
remains on until
the engine stops turning.
Here are the Niagara instructions which will help.
As I said
make the CB's pull-able. The Niagara unit is a
similar ND
alternator.
http://www.niagaraairparts.com/alt-instr.pdf
Cheers George M.
---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small
Business.
|
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brian

Joined: 02 Jan 2006 Posts: 643 Location: Sacramento, California, USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 4:47 pm Post subject: Alternator failure. Info provided (stop) |
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On Jun 29, 2006, at 6:30 PM, <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com (gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com)> <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com (gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | By the time a local auto electrics buys the part, marks it up
2 or 4 times and charges labor, it will be cheaper and better
to get a rebuild from Pop Boys or Auto Zone. Not all rebuilds
from auto stores are good either. I would suggest investing
in a Plane Power alternator ($375)
Don't feel bad about finding a replacement on the road. You
should have much less problem but it is worse with a B&C
unit for example. That can not be field replace or repaired,
since it is a custom unit.
|
But the point is moot if the B&C unit doesn't fail.
Quote: |
I am surprised the stator is fried, what ever that means.
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Fried means "burned up". I have seen many fried stators. Most alternators will burn themselves up if operated at or near their ratings for any length of time. The stator overheats because it really isn't designed to deliver 100% output. (Sustained output greater than about 50% seems to do in most automotive-type alternators.) The result is that the insulation melts/burns and the stator windings short to the case. This is a very common failure mode.
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Waybrian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
| - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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_________________ Brian Lloyd
brian-yak at lloyd dot com
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery |
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