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Magneto P leads

 
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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:51 pm    Post subject: Magneto P leads Reply with quote

I'm wondering about connecting the P leads at the magneto. Looking at the
top of the (Slick) magneto I removed the nut and star washer and found an
insulating fiber washer. Looking under the washer, there is the threaded
stud which projects from a piece of white plastic that is in turn surrounded
by a shiny piece of metal that looks like a large nut. My question has to
do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is there
to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If so,
can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring placed
under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring terminal
contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks.

Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Stringing wire (still)


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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 5:00 am    Post subject: Magneto P leads Reply with quote

In a message dated 7/24/06 1:55:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net writes:
[sniped]
Quote:
My question has to
do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is
there

Quote:
to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If
so,

Quote:
can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring
placed

Quote:
under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring
terminal

Quote:
contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks.

Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Stringing wire (still)
============================================

Dean:

Simple answer is NO!

DO NOT TOUCH THE FIBER WASHER OF THE MAG.
You will be sorry ... Very sorry.

There is a Ground screw not very far from the Fiber washer - Use that. That
ground screw is for the Shield.

I don't know how you can ground the 'P' Lead anywhere else than at the Mag
Switch.
Sure you could install a relay or solid-state device under the cowl right
next to the Mag to keep your leads short but the simple and what I feel is the
proper solution is just to use basic mil-spec shielded wire ... Connect the
center lead to the center screw of the Mag and the shielded lead to the case
ground. YES, you are correct, keep the exposed/stripped wires as short as
possible. BUT! Don't stress the wires.
The other end of the shielded wire is connected to the Mag Switch(s). The
Switch(s) in the RUN position OPENS the Ground between the center lead and the
Ground side of the Mag Switch(s). The shielded wire is there for noise
suppression. It is grounded at BOTH ends, Mag and Switch(s).

Maybe I'm getting word picky but you do not STRIP the shielding from the wire.
You separate the shield and center conductor. And there is a trick in doing
that so that 'not a single shield wire strand becomes broken'.

Trick - It is called the BEAST trick.
1 - Determine how much conductor and shield you will need so there is NO
strain. Of course short wires are better, but not so short that you have a broken
wire and a Hot Mag.

2 - This is the hard part. Remove the jacket from the wire - This is done by
bending the wire back 90 to 180 Deg and NICKING the wire using a razor. You
do NOT need to cut down to the shield. Nick the wire, bend it and the wire
will do the rest of the job. Now remove the jacket.

3 - Get a sharp thin ~1/8" Dia. scribe - At the base of the exposed shield
use the scribe to separate the shielding exposing the center conductor. Work
the shield back and away to so you can see 4x (times) the diameter of the center
conductor.

4 - Bend the wire at the exposed area 180 Deg.

5 - Use the scribe to hook under the center conductor and pull the free end
UP and OUT of the shield.

6 - You are done ... No Nick, No stray strands - No errors. Finish the ends
which ever way you wish. Crimp on lugs are usually my choice.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"

"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada


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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:54 am    Post subject: Magneto P leads Reply with quote

At 01:39 AM 7/24/2006 -0400, you wrote:

Quote:

<dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>

I'm wondering about connecting the P leads at the magneto. Looking at the
top of the (Slick) magneto I removed the nut and star washer and found an
insulating fiber washer. Looking under the washer, there is the threaded
stud which projects from a piece of white plastic that is in turn surrounded
by a shiny piece of metal that looks like a large nut. My question has to
do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is there
to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If so,
can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring placed
under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring terminal
contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks.

I'm not familiar with all the variations on the magneto
connection schemes . . . the safe thing to recommend is
that you not disassemble the terminal assembly beyond
the removal of a nut or screw intended to accept the p-lead
connection.

Most of my readers have reported reasonably handy screws
either on the mag house (or they've gone all the way
down to the magneto mounting studs) to find a handy
ground for the p-lead shields.

Getting long leads out from under a shield is pretty
easy. See:

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html

Bob . . .

---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------


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bakerocb



Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 5:04 pm    Post subject: Magneto P leads Reply with quote

7/24/2006

Responding to an AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "DEAN
PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>

Hello Dean, I was pleased to see your question on the list. It shows that
you have an inquisitive mind and are thinking, and it shows that you are
willing to seek out additional information. Your question creates an
opportunity for a bit of information to be exchanged that may benefit others
as well.

On the case of your Slick magneto very near the P (primary coil) lead stud
is a threaded hole. Beside this threaded hole are the raised letters GND.
This is an abbreviation for the word GROUND.

When the magneto comes new from Slick there is a Phillips head machine screw
threaded into this hole. The purpose of this screw is to provide for a
grounding contact to the magneto case.

Accepted procedure is to comb out a length of shielding from the magneto end
of the shielded P lead, twist the shield wires together, and crimp a ring
terminal of the appropriate size on the end of the combed out and twisted
together shield wires. The shield ring terminal is then fastened to the
magneto case by the aforementioned GND screw.

The center lead of the P lead wire also gets a ring terminal crimped on to
it and this ring terminal is fastened to the P lead stud such that it does
not contact the magneto case in any way.

On the cockpit end of the P lead the shield and the center wire are
connected to the terminals of a switch such that when the switch is in the
OFF position the shield and the center wire are connected together. This
grounds out the magneto back to its case and prevents it from sparking the
spark plugs. When the ignition switch is in the ON position the shield wire
and the center wire of the P lead are separated from each other and the
magneto can spark the plugs when properly rotated.

The term P lead is a bit of a misnomer because the lead does not connect
directly to the primary coil of the magneto. Instead the P lead connects to
a stud coming out of a capacitor (sometimes called a condenser in the older
manuals) in the primary coil circuitry. Also in the primary coil circuitry
are the magneto points. The capacitor in this circuit serves to suppress
arcing between the points when they are being opened. The stud on the end of
the capacitor also serves as a convenient point to ground out the primary
coil output via the P lead connection back to a switch as described above
when one does not want the magneto to be firing the spark plugs.

Looking forward to your next question.

OC
<<I'm wondering about connecting the P leads at the magneto. Looking at the
top of the (Slick) magneto I removed the nut and star washer and found an
insulating fiber washer. Looking under the washer, there is the threaded
stud which projects from a piece of white plastic that is in turn surrounded
by a shiny piece of metal that looks like a large nut. My question has to
do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is there
to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If so,
can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring placed
under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring terminal
contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos>>


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