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has anyone had this problem?

 
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:59 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

My left rudder pedal rubs against the tunnel skin and is starting to split the aluminum.  The attachment bolt that connects the rudder cable on the passenger side is tight against the tunnel skin.
I would appreciate you email if you have the same problem and any solution that you have come up with.  I am at the head scratching stage right now.

Rob Kermanj


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dav1111(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 5:00 pm    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

Try the West Marine Cable Guides. The model number0 is 107656 and are 5/16th size. I ordered three of them and cut the third one in0 half and ran the extra halves back past the baggage compartment bulkhead past0 the battery as well. It was a little extra work and I used Plastic clamps in the0 back obtained from the local Lowes store and pop riveted them to the side of the0 tunnel.

[img]cid:009601c6bc18$441631a0(at)D43G8741[/img]

[img]cid:009701c6bc18$441fce90(at)D43G8741[/img]

Good Luck,

Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
[quote] ---


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:45 pm    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

When Randy had his inspection, one of the "Dings" I heard was the bolts
needed to have the nut on the outside of the pedals so the cotter pins
didn't snag your shoes. This puts the nut right next to the tunnel, of
course.

So, I tried to prepare by mounting the bolt that way. I found that mine
rubbed the tunnel. So, I prayed that nobody would say anything and
mounted my bolts with the rounded head towards the tunnel. After that,
I haven't had any rubbing.

If you get rubbing, even with that bolt flipped, then I'm wondering if
there isn't anything you can do with those nylon blocks on the longerons
up on top to shift the pedals slightly so that they are further from the
tunnel. I know what you mean, the pedals are close, but on mine they
don't touch anymore. I was unable to allow myself to keep the
carpeting on the tunnel in that area though....the gap wasn't big enough
and I didn't want the cable links hanging up on the carpet some day.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

Rob Kermanj wrote:
Quote:
My left rudder pedal rubs against the tunnel skin and is starting to
split the aluminum. The attachment bolt that connects the rudder cable
on the passenger side is tight against the tunnel skin.

I would appreciate you email if you have the same problem and any
solution that you have come up with. I am at the head scratching stage
right now.

Rob Kermanj





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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:52 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

Thanks for the replay.  Mine actually scrapes the tunnel right at the passenger's left foot cable to pedal connector.  It is the connection bolt scraping the wall.
Rob Kermanj



On Aug 9, 2006, at 8:59 PM, Russell Daves wrote:
[quote]Try the West Marine Cable Guides. The model number is 107656 and are 5/16th size. I ordered three of them and cut the third one in half and ran the extra halves back past the baggage compartment bulkhead past the battery as well. It was a little extra work and I used Plastic clamps in the back obtained from the local Lowes store and pop riveted them to the side of the tunnel.
 
<009601c6bc18$441631a0$b0436a44>

 
<009701c6bc18$441fce90$b0436a44>

 
Good Luck,
 
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
[quote]---


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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:03 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

My bolts are flipped and it still digs, especially when the left pedal is pressed considering that the tunnel tapers out.  I have tried moving the left rudder assembly to the right but there is not slack in the bearing blocks.  I think my only solution at this point is to cut the supporting tube's right end about a 1/4',  insert it into the right bearing block and shim the left end.  What do you think?
I will post a photo today, perhaps others will run into the same problem.

Rob Kermanj



On Aug 10, 2006, at 12:44 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)MyRV10.com)>
When Randy had his inspection, one of the "Dings" I heard was the bolts
needed to have the nut on the outside of the pedals so the cotter pins didn't snag your shoes.  This puts the nut right next to the tunnel, of
course.
So, I tried to prepare by mounting the bolt that way.  I found that mine
rubbed the tunnel.  So, I prayed that nobody would say anything and
mounted my bolts with the rounded head towards the tunnel.  After that,
I haven't had any rubbing.
If you get rubbing, even with that bolt flipped, then I'm wondering if
there isn't anything you can do with those nylon blocks on the longerons
up on top to shift the pedals slightly so that they are further from the
tunnel.  I know what you mean, the pedals are close, but on mine they
don't touch anymore.   I was unable to allow myself to keep the
carpeting on the tunnel in that area though....the gap wasn't big enough
and I didn't want the cable links hanging up on the carpet some day.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rob Kermanj wrote:
Quote:
My left rudder pedal rubs against the tunnel skin and is starting to split the aluminum.  The attachment bolt that connects the rudder cable on the passenger side is tight against the tunnel skin.
I would appreciate you email if you have the same problem and any solution that you have come up with.  I am at the head scratching stage right now.
Rob Kermanj


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:38 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

I can't remember exactly how deep those plastic/UHMW endcaps are
on the pedal mounts, but that might be just what you need. But
you'd have to make sure the pedals are still oriented with enough
gap so they don't rub as the pass eachother. From the sounds of it,
you've also thought of bending the attach tab already, as that would
be too simple.

How may hours are you up to now?
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
Quote:
My bolts are flipped and it still digs, especially when the left pedal
is pressed considering that the tunnel tapers out. I have tried moving
the left rudder assembly to the right but there is not slack in the
bearing blocks. I think my only solution at this point is to cut the
supporting tube's right end about a 1/4', insert it into the right
bearing block and shim the left end. What do you think?

I will post a photo today, perhaps others will run into the same problem.

Rob Kermanj



On Aug 10, 2006, at 12:44 AM, Tim Olson wrote:

>
> <mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com>>
>
> When Randy had his inspection, one of the "Dings" I heard was the bolts
> needed to have the nut on the outside of the pedals so the cotter pins
> didn't snag your shoes. This puts the nut right next to the tunnel, of
> course.
>
> So, I tried to prepare by mounting the bolt that way. I found that mine
> rubbed the tunnel. So, I prayed that nobody would say anything and
> mounted my bolts with the rounded head towards the tunnel. After that,
> I haven't had any rubbing.
>
> If you get rubbing, even with that bolt flipped, then I'm wondering if
> there isn't anything you can do with those nylon blocks on the longerons
> up on top to shift the pedals slightly so that they are further from the
> tunnel. I know what you mean, the pedals are close, but on mine they
> don't touch anymore. I was unable to allow myself to keep the
> carpeting on the tunnel in that area though....the gap wasn't big enough
> and I didn't want the cable links hanging up on the carpet some day.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> My left rudder pedal rubs against the tunnel skin and is starting to
>> split the aluminum. The attachment bolt that connects the rudder
>> cable on the passenger side is tight against the tunnel skin.
>> I would appreciate you email if you have the same problem and any
>> solution that you have come up with. I am at the head scratching
>> stage right now.
>> Rob Kermanj
>
> - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> NOTE: Msg Size Limit Now At: 1MB - 08/08/06 (was 2MB)
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> --> http://forums.matronics.com
> - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> --> http://wiki.matronics.com
> - List Contribution Web Site -
> Thank you for your generous support!
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.



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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:02 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

Yes, I started to bend the tabs and began to see cracks in the powder coating.  I am facing some careful measurement process so that I don't create additional work for myself.
I have a little over 30 hours.  A three week paint job took seven weeks to complete and grounded me with much pain.

I am going to california (from Florida) so I will be putting some hours on the BigBird.  I will post some performance number for comparison after the trip.

Do not archive

Rob Kermanj



On Aug 10, 2006, at 7:37 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)MyRV10.com)>
I can't remember exactly how deep those plastic/UHMW endcaps are
on the pedal mounts, but that might be just what you need.  But
you'd have to make sure the pedals are still oriented with enough
gap so they don't rub as the pass eachother.  From the sounds of it,
you've also thought of bending the attach tab already, as that would
be too simple.
How may hours are you up to now?


Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive


Rob Kermanj wrote:
Quote:
My bolts are flipped and it still digs, especially when the left pedal is pressed considering that the tunnel tapers out.  I have tried moving the left rudder assembly to the right but there is not slack in the bearing blocks.  I think my only solution at this point is to cut the supporting tube's right end about a 1/4',  insert it into the right bearing block and shim the left end.  What do you think?
I will post a photo today, perhaps others will run into the same problem.
Rob Kermanj
On Aug 10, 2006, at 12:44 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com <mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)MyRV10.com)>>
When Randy had his inspection, one of the "Dings" I heard was the bolts
needed to have the nut on the outside of the pedals so the cotter pins didn't snag your shoes.  This puts the nut right next to the tunnel, of
course.
So, I tried to prepare by mounting the bolt that way.  I found that mine
rubbed the tunnel.  So, I prayed that nobody would say anything and
mounted my bolts with the rounded head towards the tunnel.  After that,
I haven't had any rubbing.
If you get rubbing, even with that bolt flipped, then I'm wondering if
there isn't anything you can do with those nylon blocks on the longerons
up on top to shift the pedals slightly so that they are further from the
tunnel.  I know what you mean, the pedals are close, but on mine they
don't touch anymore.   I was unable to allow myself to keep the
carpeting on the tunnel in that area though....the gap wasn't big enough
and I didn't want the cable links hanging up on the carpet some day.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rob Kermanj wrote:
Quote:
My left rudder pedal rubs against the tunnel skin and is starting to split the aluminum.  The attachment bolt that connects the rudder cable on the passenger side is tight against the tunnel skin.
I would appreciate you email if you have the same problem and any solution that you have come up with.  I am at the head scratching stage right now.
Rob Kermanj


          - The RV10-List Email Forum -
  --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
  NOTE: Msg Size Limit Now At: 1MB - 08/08/06 (was 2MB)
              - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
  --> http://forums.matronics.com
              - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
  --> http://wiki.matronics.com
            - List Contribution Web Site -
  Thank you for your generous support!
                              -Matt Dralle, List Admin.




          - The RV10-List Email Forum -
  --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
  NOTE: Msg Size Limit Now At: 1MB - 08/08/06 (was 2MB)
              - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
  --> http://forums.matronics.com
              - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
  --> http://wiki.matronics.com
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  Thank you for your generous support!
                              -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution




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AV8ORJWC



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:14 am    Post subject: has anyone had this problem? Reply with quote

Serviceability. The conduit should allow frequent and easy inspection of the direct strands for signs of abrasion, break or kinks. (Removal). Great idea, now how were you going to frequently inspect the cables directly? Hence the fairleads through ribs or stringers. The key points are penetrations. Terminations, changes in angle around pulleys and close proximity to other wear components.

John Cox – KUAO
Do not Archive


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 6:00 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: has anyone had this problem?


Try the West Marine Cable Guides. The model number is 107656 and are 5/16th size. I ordered three of them and cut the third one in half and ran the extra halves back past the baggage compartment bulkhead past the battery as well. It was a little extra work and I used Plastic clamps in the back obtained from the local Lowes store and pop riveted them to the side of the tunnel.



[img]cid:image001.jpg(at)01C6BC4C.8B720680[/img]



[img]cid:image002.jpg(at)01C6BC4C.8B720680[/img]



Good Luck,



Russ Daves

N710RV Flying
[quote]
---


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