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BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

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bobair8(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:41 pm Post subject: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM".  The installation  calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector.  The  instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the connector shell  and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to soldering the center conductor  on the inside of the connector).  This doesn't look like a very  mechanically strong connection.  Especially since some of the braid bunched  up when I pushed it into the connector.  I also had trouble getting enough  heat on the connector to flow solder without barbequing the connector.   

  

 Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and  mechanical connection?  How close to the connector do you need to have your  first mechanical support for the coax?

  

 Bob

 GlaStar     

   [quote][b]

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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:22 am Post subject: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

In a message dated 9/19/2006 12:43:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, bobair8(at)msn.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		   I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM".  The installation calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector.  The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector).  This doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection.  Especially since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the connector.  I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector to flow solder without barbequing the connector.  

  

 Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and mechanical connection?  How close to the connector do you need to have your first mechanical support for the coax?

  

 Bob

 GlaStar 

	


 ----------------------------------------------------------

 Here we go again!

  

 Bob:

  

 I am not familiar with 'Blindmate",  never heard of it ... Not that it does not exist, just never heard of it.  Anyway ...

 Just get a good quality SOLDER TYPE - BNC connector from a good electronics store, NOT Radio Shack.  It will have the solder type center connector and a rubber type 'O' ring/gasket for the braid.  A good set of assembly instructions can be found probably at the store or in the library ... Look for them in the  ARRL Handbook or ARRL Antenna Book.  You may even find instructions over the Internet.

  

 The screw on back of the BNC connector makes a very good mechanical connection as well as an electrical connection.  Make sure the screw on back is the proper size for the coax diameter you are using.

  

  

  

  

 Barry

"Chop'd Liver"

 "I would rather be Screwed than crimped."

  [quote][b]

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retasker(at)optonline.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:12 am Post subject: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

I don't know what a "Blindmate" connector is, but if it is the same as 

or similar to the right angle one used on the back of the SL-70 the 

method is basically the same.  However, on the SL-70 connector the braid 

is slid onto the outside of the connector.  Are you sure yours says to 

slide it into the connector?



As far as getting enough heat, you will need a good 50-60 watt soldering 

iron with a large tip and be patient.  I used my Weller temperature 

controlled iron and it works fine - just take a bit longer than a normal 

solder joint.  A larger iron would work better or if you have a 

heat-shrink hot air gun, you can preheat the assembly to speed things 

up.  The RG-400 coax and the connector use only metal and teflon, so 

there is little problem with harming either unless you go way overboard 

with higher temperature than any reasonable soldering iron.



As far as mechanical strength, this is as strong as you are going to get 

if you have a good solder joint.



Dick Tasker



r falstad wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM".  The installation 

 calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector.  

 The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the 

 connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to 

 soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector).  This 

 doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection.  Especially 

 since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the 

 connector.  I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector to 

 flow solder without barbequing the connector. 

  

 Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and 

 mechanical connection?  How close to the connector do you need to have 

 your first mechanical support for the coax?

  

 Bob

 GlaStar  



*

*

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klehman(at)albedo.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:38 am Post subject: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

My old 140 watt Weller solder gun also works fine on these Bob. Those 

(or an  imported  knockoff) are pretty cheap and they heat up quickly 

for occasional use.

http://www.lashen.com/vendors/CooperTools/Weller_soldering_guns.asp

Ken L.



Richard Tasker wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <retasker(at)optonline.net>



 I don't know what a "Blindmate" connector is, but if it is the same as 

 or similar to the right angle one used on the back of the SL-70 the 

 method is basically the same.  However, on the SL-70 connector the 

 braid is slid onto the outside of the connector.  Are you sure yours 

 says to slide it into the connector?



 As far as getting enough heat, you will need a good 50-60 watt 

 soldering iron with a large tip and be patient.  I used my Weller 

 temperature controlled iron and it works fine - just take a bit longer 

 than a normal solder joint.  A larger iron would work better or if you 

 have a heat-shrink hot air gun, you can preheat the assembly to speed 

 things up.  The RG-400 coax and the connector use only metal and 

 teflon, so there is little problem with harming either unless you go 

 way overboard with higher temperature than any reasonable soldering iron.



 As far as mechanical strength, this is as strong as you are going to 

 get if you have a good solder joint.



 Dick Tasker



 r falstad wrote:



> I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM".  The installation 

> calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector.  

> The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the 

> connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to 

> soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector).  This 

> doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection.  Especially 

> since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the 

> connector.  I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector 

> to flow solder without barbequing the connector.  

> Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and 

> mechanical connection?  How close to the connector do you need to 

> have your first mechanical support for the coax?

>  

> Bob

> GlaStar 

> *

> *

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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:13 am Post subject: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector

The "Blindmate" connectors are a product of Palco Connectors division of 

Phoenix

Co of Chicago. You can access the products catalog for these devices at:



http://www.phoenixofchicago.com/palco.htm



It's unfortunate that they didn't craft a series

of these connectors that crimp on like a D-Sub connector.

Nevertheless, as Richard has noted, you're unlikely to injure

these connectors or RG-400 coax with soldering temperatures.

The goal will be to get sufficient heat to the joint to get-on,

get-off with reasonable dispatch which also means there's

sufficient temperature rise to get good solder flow into

the joint.



Here's another link to info on this product:



http://www.bfioptilas.es/Blindmate_Coax-l6049.htm



Bob . . .





 	  Quote: 	
		  

<retasker(at)optonline.net>



I don't know what a "Blindmate" connector is, but if it is the same as or 

similar to the right angle one used on the back of the SL-70 the method is 

basically the same.  However, on the SL-70 connector the braid is slid 

onto the outside of the connector.  Are you sure yours says to slide it 

into the connector?



As far as getting enough heat, you will need a good 50-60 watt soldering 

iron with a large tip and be patient.  I used my Weller temperature 

controlled iron and it works fine - just take a bit longer than a normal 

solder joint.  A larger iron would work better or if you have a 

heat-shrink hot air gun, you can preheat the assembly to speed things 

up.  The RG-400 coax and the connector use only metal and teflon, so there 

is little problem with harming either unless you go way overboard with 

higher temperature than any reasonable soldering iron.



As far as mechanical strength, this is as strong as you are going to get 

if you have a good solder joint.



Dick Tasker



r falstad wrote:



>I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM".  The installation calls 

>for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector.

>The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the 

>connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to 

>soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector).  This 

>doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection.  Especially 

>since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the 

>connector.  I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector to 

>flow solder without barbequing the connector.  Any suggestions, tips or 

>tricks to get a sound electrical and mechanical connection?  How close to 

>the connector do you need to have your first mechanical support for the coax?

>

>Bob

>GlaStar

>

>*

>*

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      < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of   >

      < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests     >

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      <                            --Lawrence M. Krauss       >

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