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Installing the engine cowl

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trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:29 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Guys



Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?



If yes, how is it done?



Thanks in advance 

Carlos

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Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:05 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.



Kelly

(with nice 3 blade MT prop)

 	  Quote: 	
		  Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100 	




On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

 

 Guys

 

 Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

 

 If yes, how is it done?

 

 Thanks in advance 

 Carlos

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:37 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Kelly



It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.

But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.

Is it?

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		  No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:



I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.



Kelly

(with nice 3 blade MT prop)

 	  Quote: 	
		  Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100 	




On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

 

 Guys

 

 Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

 

 If yes, how is it done?

 

 Thanks in advance 

 Carlos

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:02 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation.

[img]cid:EFB2C91D-B61B-437E-A175-13AC857C726F[/img]

Joe

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Nov 5, 2019, at 08:47, Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:



Kelly



It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.

But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.

Is it?

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		  No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:



I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.



Kelly

(with nice 3 blade MT prop)

 	  Quote: 	
		  Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100 	




On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

 

 Guys

 

 Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

 

 If yes, how is it done?

 

 Thanks in advance 

 Carlos

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

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joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:32 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Method?



Draw the cut line.

Cut through outside with Dremel tool leaving 1/4" tabs / attached sections every foot or so.

On inside, scuff the cowl surface / put release on the snorkle surface. I used PVA.

Lay up 3 layers of glass in strips that will become the flange. Let cure.

Drill #40 holes that will become the fastener locations.

On the outside, finish cutting the tabs that were left and pop off your removable snout.

Clean up the edges providing the usual paint gap.

Install your favorite means of attachment. Nutplates work fine.

Enjoy the ease of a two piece lower cowl.



Joe

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Nov 5, 2019, at 09:00, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> wrote:



Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation.

<image0.jpeg>



Joe

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Nov 5, 2019, at 08:47, Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:



Kelly



It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.

But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.

Is it?

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		  No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:



I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.



Kelly

(with nice 3 blade MT prop)

 	  Quote: 	
		  Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100 	




On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

 

 Guys

 

 Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

 

 If yes, how is it done?

 

 Thanks in advance 

 Carlos

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:59 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Thank you Joe 

I’ll give it a thought 

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone

[quote] No dia 05/11/2019, às 15:37, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> escreveu:

 Method?

 Draw the cut line.

 Cut through outside with Dremel tool leaving 1/4" tabs / attached sections every foot or so.

 On inside, scuff the cowl surface / put release on the snorkle surface. I used PVA.

 Lay up 3 layers of glass in strips that will become the flange. Let cure.

 Drill #40 holes that will become the fastener locations.

 On the outside, finish cutting the tabs that were left and pop off your removable snout.

 Clean up the edges providing the usual paint gap.

 Install your favorite means of attachment. Nutplates work fine.

 Enjoy the ease of a two piece lower cowl.

 Joe

>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 09:00, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> wrote:

>> 

> Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

Bob Turner

Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 8:35 am Post subject: Re: Installing the engine cowl

Yes it is a tight fit. Because of the small clearance behind the spinner, you must keep the cowl near level while you raise it vertically. Working solo I use a couple of 2x4’s, supported by stools, sawhorses, etc., on either side of the engine, to support the cowl. Then incrementally raise each end. It was still hard until I did Kelly’s mod - I cut the cowl to extend the existing nose gear cutout forward, about 6 inches. This lets you lower the cowl straight down. Not sure about structural integrity, so I put the cutout piece back in, by epoxying it to an oversize piece of aluminum, with nutplates around the edge. I attach it to the cowling with screws. You still may need to carefully trim the rubber snorkle pieces, the aluminum baffle ‘ramps’, etc. Just a note, on my first test flights some RPM settings gave a strange vibration sound. I determined one of those aluminum ramps was a 1/16” too long, and could vibrate against the lower cowl lip. A little filing, noise went away.

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_________________
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB

dan(at)syz.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 1:09 pm Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

With my 3 bladed MT prop, I find the only reasonable way to get the lower cowl off is to remove the spinner.  This gives an extra half inch or so of clearance to the prop backplate so I can get the cowl on and off.  With that said, the modifications to the lower cowl suggested would seem to make things that much easier.



Dan



 	  Quote: 	
		   On 2019-Nov-05, at 7:03 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

 With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

 With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

 Kelly

 (with nice 3 blade MT prop)

 Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100

 

 

 On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:

 

 

 Guys

 

 Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

 

 If yes, how is it done?

 

 Thanks in advance 

 Carlos 

 

 

 

 

 


	


---

Dan Charrois

President, Syzygy Research & Technology

Phone: 780-961-2213

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:01 am Post subject: Installing the engine cowl

Thank you guys



With your suggestions I managed!



Cheers

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		   No dia 05/11/2019, às 21:14, Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> escreveu:

 

 

 

 With my 3 bladed MT prop, I find the only reasonable way to get the lower cowl off is to remove the spinner.  This gives an extra half inch or so of clearance to the prop backplate so I can get the cowl on and off.  With that said, the modifications to the lower cowl suggested would seem to make things that much easier.

 

 Dan

 

> On 2019-Nov-05, at 7:03 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:

> 

> I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.

> With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.

> With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

> Kelly

> (with nice 3 blade MT prop)

> Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100

> 

> 

> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:

> 

> 

> Guys

> 

> Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

> 

> If yes, how is it done?

> 

> Thanks in advance 

> Carlos 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

 

 

 

 ---

 Dan Charrois

 President, Syzygy Research & Technology

 Phone: 780-961-2213

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

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