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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 925
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:36 am Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
seam?
inquiring minds want to know.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
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rene(at)felker.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:59 am Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts because of
my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
Rene' Felker
40322
Finish........
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dlm46007(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:24 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in the
cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the finished
paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in the lid
attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the blinds on the
top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of rivets in glass from
working their way through the paint after a couple hundred hours. Just got a
new camera and will attempt to show what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but
missed a couple of places and it shows.
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 925
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:39 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open,
And previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with
body filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
tape technique work for this as well?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
David McNeill wrote:
[quote]
CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in
the cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
finished paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in
the lid attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
blinds on the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of
rivets in glass from working their way through the paint after a
couple hundred hours. Just got a new camera and will attempt to show
what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but missed a couple of places and
it shows.
---
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:10 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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Just use some epoxy with some colloidal silica and fairing
filler mixed in, and as you get closer to the finished
surface layer, don't use the silica. You can easily blend
that seam into oblivion and sand it smooth, including
the rivets. I'm sure the fiberglass tape method would
work, but I dont' think you need it there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
[quote]
What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open,
And previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with
body filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
tape technique work for this as well?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
David McNeill wrote:
>
>
> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in
> the cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
> finished paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in
> the lid attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
> blinds on the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of
> rivets in glass from working their way through the paint after a
> couple hundred hours. Just got a new camera and will attempt to show
> what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but missed a couple of places and
> it shows.
> ---
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dlm46007(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:24 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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It may as well; we are checking with experts at the Big Airplane Co.
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speckter(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:50 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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Rough up the aluminum and it will work just fine. I plan on doing it that
way.
Gary Specketer
40274
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billderou(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:17 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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I scrapped the pop rivets and used AN426A-3-10 "soft rivets" and cut the length to size. If you have already drilled the holes for pop rivets then use the AN426A-4. Set the rivet gun at 60 psi and hit it lightly. Crushing the fiberglass was a non-issue.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou(at)yahoo.com
N939SB flying
David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> wrote:[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill"
It may as well; we are checking with experts at the Big Airplane Co.
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dlm46007(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:24 pm Post subject: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
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Its my understanding that the problem is not visual crushing of the glass but "fractures" in the matrix at the micro level. Same problem with Van's single hardpoint for the shoulder harnesses and a single #5 countersunk screw to hold the harness. over time the pulling on the belt will create micro fractures that will pull through quite easily in a crash.
[quote] ---
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