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sgesele(at)yahoo.com
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 Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 6:07 am Post subject: Control Stick Engagement |
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| Quote: | Time: 09:24:05 AM PST US
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement
into Control Stick Base.
Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments...
1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well
to
deal with the inside of the bore.
2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with
this
myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the
stick.
At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too.
Over
the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine
completely.
Here's more...
The source of the slop in my case was actually the
OD of the
BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see
attached
.jpg)
Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L
& R.
The way bushings normally work, you want them to
have one
movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable
bolt.
You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the
WD-1011
somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly
together
doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle
nut. You
want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the
WD-10ll,
but still fits in the mating part. If necessary,
you trim
the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was
the OD
of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the
bushing
in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt
up and
down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of
the
bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was
slopping
around in the WD-1011.
I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick
metal
660" that I had sitting around from a previous
bushing
repair a couple years ago.
http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm
|
| Quote: | You could probably use many of the ones on this
page.
Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the
bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the
nicely
fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just
bring it
up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's
not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more
stick slop.
The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term
when
you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in
the
WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out
the
bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD – Flying
|
Tim,
Let me get this straight, you basically glued the
brass bushing into the control stick and installed
this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What
did Van’s say about your modifications to the primary
flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is
designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the
bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment.
Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the
brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When
this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In
the original design, the bushing is longer than
WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in
some minor slop, but it also produced a space that
eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on,
you will lose this size differential. If your bearing
did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then
something was not right. I have installed these
components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both
aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing
and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not
be within tolerance.
It’s your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so
install it however you want. I strongly encourage
anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical
system to run the modification by the designer of the
aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc
are open for personal creativeness, primary flight
controls are not.
Scott Gesele
N506RV – Flying RV-6A
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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sgesele(at)yahoo.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 6:07 am Post subject: Control Stick Engagement |
|
|
| Quote: | Time: 09:24:05 AM PST US
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement
into Control Stick Base.
Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments...
1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well
to
deal with the inside of the bore.
2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with
this
myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the
stick.
At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too.
Over
the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine
completely.
Here's more...
The source of the slop in my case was actually the
OD of the
BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see
attached
.jpg)
Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L
& R.
The way bushings normally work, you want them to
have one
movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable
bolt.
You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the
WD-1011
somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly
together
doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle
nut. You
want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the
WD-10ll,
but still fits in the mating part. If necessary,
you trim
the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was
the OD
of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the
bushing
in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt
up and
down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of
the
bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was
slopping
around in the WD-1011.
I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick
metal
660" that I had sitting around from a previous
bushing
repair a couple years ago.
http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm
|
| Quote: | You could probably use many of the ones on this
page.
Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the
bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the
nicely
fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just
bring it
up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's
not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more
stick slop.
The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term
when
you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in
the
WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out
the
bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD – Flying
|
Tim,
Let me get this straight, you basically glued the
brass bushing into the control stick and installed
this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What
did Van’s say about your modifications to the primary
flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is
designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the
bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment.
Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the
brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When
this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In
the original design, the bushing is longer than
WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in
some minor slop, but it also produced a space that
eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on,
you will lose this size differential. If your bearing
did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then
something was not right. I have installed these
components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both
aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing
and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not
be within tolerance.
It’s your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so
install it however you want. I strongly encourage
anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical
system to run the modification by the designer of the
aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc
are open for personal creativeness, primary flight
controls are not.
Scott Gesele
N506RV – Flying RV-6A
Degrees online in as fast as 1 Yr
MBA, Bachelor's, Master's, Assoc
http://yahoo.degrees.info
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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dvanwinkle(at)royell.net
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:11 am Post subject: Control Stick Engagement |
|
|
Tim and Jesse
I am with Scott on the bronze bushing part of the installation. The bushing
should normally be captured by design, either as a press fit, or as in this
case captured by the torqued up through bolt with a castellated nut and
cotter pin. The bushing is the sacrificial wear part and readily replaceable
here. The wear rate on the bushing is reduced by utilizing the larger
surface area / lower unit pressures on the outside of the bushing. Normal
design practice in aircraft control systems is to use castellated nuts on
any joint where there could be rotation on the joint. While the castellated
nut might appear to be overkill in this instance, it does guarantee that the
torque is retained on the bolt while a used lock nut might not. I also think
that it is highly likely that the bushing OD or the tube ID on the WD-1011
is out of tolerance. I did not have this situation on my RV-9A.
Dean Van Winkle Retired Aero Engineer
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
---
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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