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chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.c Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:16 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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[quote][b]
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tonyplane(at)bellsouth.ne Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 1:57 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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Chris,
Doing it again, I believe I would spend a little extra money and put shielded wire out to my strobes and back and tie the shields into my single point ground. Although not disconcerting, I can hear a slight "squeak. squeakity-squeak" tone in my headset from I believe my Aeroflash Strobe power packs when engine is not running.
I also ran an extra spare wire out to the wing tips, just in case for any future additions/repairs.
Tony Graziano
601XL; N493TG, w/"Down Under" Jab 3300A (great engine!).
Wiring up your wings From: Chris sinfield (chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com ([email]chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com?subject=Re:%20Wiring%20up%20your%20wings&replyto=266511.14636.qm(at)web50811.mail.yahoo.com[/email])) Date: [b]Mon Dec 25 - 12:16 PM[/b]
Quote: | Quote: | OK,
Having read lots of stuff including Bingles and watching the Homebuilt help 101
video, there are 2 main thoughts as to the earthing out of components.
1. Running both positive and neg wires to each component or
2. Just a positive wire and use the airframe as the earth..
Since this aircraft is all metal the latter will work just like my car, but
I am still not 100% convinced and so I have run both wires out to my wing tip
strobes. If I don't use it I can always have a spare.
Looking through the archives I did not find much on this, so what have other
builders done and why?
Thanks
Chris
XL builder
Down Under
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carlossa52(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 3:21 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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Chris, as it has happened recently to a numbers of postings, your text did not show, but I am pasting it below for others to read.
Re your query: I suggest you search the Aerolectric archives (also hosted by Matt - follow the "Navigator" link below).
Cheers
Carlos
On 25/12/06, Chris sinfield <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com (chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote]OK, Having read lots of stuff including Bingles and watching the Homebuilt help 101 video, there are 2 main thoughts as to the earthing out of components. 1. Running both positive and neg wires to each component or
2. Just a positive wire and use the airframe as the earth.. Since this aircraft is all metal the latter will work just like my car, but I am still not 100% convinced and so I have run both wires out to my wing tip strobes. If I don't use it I can always have a spare.
Looking through the archives I did not find much on this, so what have other builders done and why? Thanks Chris XL builder Down Under [b]
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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 4:36 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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Hi Carlos and Chris,
Thanks, Carlos, for making the text visible. I don't know the trick you used, but I do know many recent posts have been empty of any real information. I thought maybe there is a new filter that guarantees only nasty messages get through . . .
For Chris, on the grounding issue there are many conflicting opinions. My own are:
1. Aluminum is a very good conductor of electricity. It is used commercially for long distance transmission of power and was, for a time, used to wire some household power circuits. The house wiring turned out to be a fiasco because of the tendency for oxide to develop at the wire terminations which produced heat and sometimes house fires.
2. Radio circuits are sensitive to power fluctuations. This is is such a serious problem the radio designs always include a "Power supply circuit" which filters out all the noise in the power coming into the radio so dirty power circuits don't ruin the performance of the radio. Unfortunately, this doesn't do anything for the fragile connection between the radio receiver and the headphones. In this one area, I would recommend using a serious ground connection between the headphones (microphone too) and the radio. A shielded cable would be justified here.
3. Whether to use the aircraft skin for the electrical return path depends, in part, on whether or not you use anti-corrosion coating on all the metal to metal connections. If you include paint or other stuff between all the metal parts the electrical path will be poor or completely interrupted. If you don't use such materials in your construction, then the metal in the skin and other parts will make a much better return path for the current than any wire you can string out to the lights and other components.
Your choice to run extra wires allows you to experiment with different ways to hook up your strobes and other lights. It also adds some weight to your plane which may or may not make a measurable difference in you plane's performance. In either case, I am sure you will do fine with regard to operation of the lights and radio performance.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 03:21 PM 12/25/2006, you wrote:
Quote: | Chris, as it has happened recently to a numbers of postings, your text did not show, but I am pasting it below for others to read.
Re your query: I suggest you search the Aerolectric archives (also hosted by Matt - follow the "Navigator" link below).
Cheers
Carlos
On 25/12/06, Chris sinfield <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com (chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com) > wrote:
Quote: | OK,
Having read lots of stuff including Bingles and watching the
Homebuilt help 101 video, there are 2 main thoughts as to the earthing
out of components.
1. Running both positive and neg wires to each component or
2. Just a positive wire and use the airframe as the earth..
Since this aircraft is all metal the latter will work just
like my car, but I am still not 100% convinced and so I have run both
wires out to my wing tip strobes. If I don't use it I can always
have a spare.
Looking through the archives I did not find much on this, so what
have other builders done and why?
Thanks
Chris
XL builder
Down Under |
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- [quote][b]
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Float Flyr

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 2704 Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1018
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:58 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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I was able to see his message in "raw source" mode. This problem seems to occur with some messages sent from Yahoo.com email accounts. I don't know what's up with that.Anyway, for simple lighting circuits like the nav lights and landing lights, using the aircraft aluminum for ground shouldn't cause any problems as long as you use something like NoOx on the�terminations to prevent corrosion. If I were using 100W halogen landing lights I would use a dedicated ground just because of the relatively large current required. Running a�separate ground wire for the strobes may help reduce electrical noise from that circuit. Twisting the power and ground wires around each other on the strobe circuit may help also.
Most of your other circuits should have a�separate ground wire and all your ground wires should be tied to a common point. Some of your engine�gauges need a relatively heavy�separate ground wire to ensure accuracy because any voltage drop�across the ground wire can throw off the readings.�
Special care should be taken with the grounding of your audio circuits. Each component in the audio system should have a dedicated ground wire.�All of the shields of your audio signal lines should be grounded on one end only and all at the same point. (This rule does NOT apply to the shields on antenna cables which MUST be connected at both ends.) For instance if you have an intercom or an audio panel that all of your audio signals are routed through, the shields should be connected together where the audio lines connect to the intercom or audio panel and that point should be connected to you common grounding point. The shields of audio signal wires should not be used as part of the audio signal path, they are only used to keep external noise out of the signal wires. �If your mic and headphone jacks are mounted to the airframe metal, you should use insulating washers to isolate the shells of the jacks from ground. All of this is to prevent ground loops that can cause noisy audio circuits. You should use two wire shielded cable for the headphone jacks and three wire shielded wire for the microphone jacks, the third wire carries the push to talk signal.
On my plane, the #4 negative wire from the battery is connected to a point on the firewall and then continues on to the engine block. All of my dedicated ground wires are connected to tins same point on the firewall.
On Dec 25, 2006, at 7:35 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
Quote: | Hi Carlos and Chris,
Thanks, Carlos, for making the text visible.� I don't know the trick you used, but I do know many recent posts have been empty of any real information.� I thought maybe there is a new filter that guarantees only nasty messages get through . . .
Quote: |
On 25/12/06, Chris sinfield <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com (chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com) > wrote:
Quote: | OK,
� Having read lots of stuff including Bingles and watching the
Homebuilt help 101 video, there are 2 main thoughts as to the earthing
out of components.� �� ..� |
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--�
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,�
RAM�Subaru, Stratus redrive.
[quote][b]
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_________________ --
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive. |
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chris Sinfield
Joined: 28 Nov 2006 Posts: 270 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:25 pm Post subject: Re: Wiring up your wings |
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Anyone know where we can buy the Common Earth fittings like in the Homebuilt Help DVD? or the fuse boxes?
Chris
Do not archive
.Most of your other circuits should have a?separate ground wire and all your ground wires should be tied to a common point. Some of your engine?gauges need a relatively heavy?separate ground wire to ensure accuracy because any voltage drop?across the ground wire can throw off the readings.?
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Float Flyr

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 2704 Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:45 pm Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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A fine write up Bryan.
Where a ground wire is used you should be sure it is large enough to carry all the current of the items in series with it. E.g. the ground you mentioned for the landing lights should also be large enough to carry the landing lights, strobe lights and nav lights if all are connected to the same ground wire.
I think you will agree another very important ground wire is the braid that goes form the engine mount to the engine block. Quite often problems with gauges and starters are the result of a poor grounding braid.
Merry Christmas
Noel [quote]
--
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_________________ Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1018
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:04 am Post subject: Wiring up your wings |
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Here's one place, they've been pretty good to deal with.
http://www.bandc.biz/index.html
On Dec 26, 2006, at 4:25 PM, chris Sinfield wrote:
Quote: |
<chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au>
Anyone know where we can buy the Common Earth fittings like in the
Homebuilt Help DVD? or the fuse boxes?
Chris
Do not archive
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--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
| - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________ --
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive. |
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