Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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 Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:43 am Post subject: Axle Extender drawing repost |
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Since I don't know for sure if the countersunk hole for
the cotter pin is needed, and some people have expressed
interest in my drawing design, I decided to add the note
that this hole might not be required. I'd hate to have
someone add that last counterbore and find out they'd
rather not have it. So the image is reposted with
a change in note.
Also, a couple other things to consider:
#1. I had a couple replies on the length. The most common
and seemingly likely most accurate was 3-5/16". I did
have a reply about 3-3/8", and 3-1/4" as well, which
are both a little longer and a little shorter.
#2. Some of the differences in #1 above are because some
people plan to leave out the steel washer altogether.
I am thinking I'll leave mine in, but I don't think it
makes much difference either way. So your length may
vary slightly depending on how A) it fits your fairings,
and B) what other hardware and shims you have there.
#3. On the VAF site thread, some people questioned using
an AN5 bolt vs. an AN4 bolt. Considering the improvement
in the part, I'm sure an AN4 would work, but I am doing
it AN5 just for added strength "just because". You
probably can't go wrong either way, but other than having
to order a proper length AN5, I can't see any reason why
not to just go that size. The ONLY thing I can thnk
might be an issue is in a drastic event, the AN4 might
shear before your wheel nut gets ripped off, whereas
the AN5 may crack your wheel nut off and you could
lose a tire. But you'd have to take a direct hit
on that extension before you'd have a big worry.
#4. As Dan Lloyd pointed out, you don't *need* to taper this
thing and make it cone shaped. He used 1" material and
just made it straight. So it IS possible to do this
very cheap and easy. Those who know me know I didn't
care much about weight before, and that still holds true
about the couple ounces of extra aluminum. But, I figured
the tapered one would look pretty, and be a little lighter
too. (Not as light as the hollow one from yesterday though)
Either way, there should be plenty of strength in the
new part. Also, the taper on mine makes it an easier
retrofit on mine, because I have existing epoxy holding
the outer washer to the fairing, so I need to stay less
than the washer's OD or I may have to grind epoxy.
So for the DIY guy, you can go many routes with this part...
none of them really wrong, AFAIK.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
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