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gyoung
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 211
Location: Republic of Texas
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 Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:16 am Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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I find myself with a raft of switches that have solder tab connectors (no fastons available) and must confess to ignorance of the accepted wiring technique for them. The only picture book I could find was for a rotary switch and that showed the wire soldered flat to the tab without any mechanical connection thru the hole. Is this the norm for all solder tabs or just due to the nature of the rotary switch? If a mechanical connection before soldering is desirable I can envision several ways of doing it and have probably used them all on the occasional connector I've encountered in the past. This time I have a panel full of them and would like to make it as neat and tidy as possible. Is there a best or accepted method or does it not really matter in our applications? Thanks.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
[quote][b]
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rdunhamtn(at)hotmail.com
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:18 pm Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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Greg,
Try this link...
www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Jack_Tab_Soldering/Jack_Tab_Soldering.html
Rod
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:19 pm Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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At 12:10 PM 1/26/2007 -0600, you wrote:
| Quote: | I find myself with a raft of switches that have solder tab connectors (no
fastons available) and must confess to ignorance of the accepted wiring
technique for them. The only picture book I could find was for a rotary
switch and that showed the wire soldered flat to the tab without any
mechanical connection thru the hole. Is this the norm for all solder tabs
or just due to the nature of the rotary switch?
|
Depends on who is defining "norm" . . . There are many a folk who
would roll their eyes and pronounce the speaker short on sanity
for suggesting that wires be "tacked" into place with solder.
But skillfully lapped joints are done every day and produce
conductors that run the lifetime of the vehicle. See:
Go to my homepage and do a search on "solder sleeve". You'll
get 7 hits on articles that discuss the joining of wires with
nothing more than lapped, tack-soldered joints covered with
heat shrink. See also . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html
| Quote: | If a mechanical connection before soldering is desirable I can envision
several ways of doing it and have probably used them all on the
occasional connector I've encountered in the past. This time I have a
panel full of them and would like to make it as neat and tidy as
possible. Is there a best or accepted method or does it not really matter
in our applications? Thanks.
|
I would stick the stripped wire through the hole and
solder it without "hooking" the wire onto the terminal.
This is done for one good reason only . . . ease of
repair. When it comes time to replace a switch, heat the
joint and the wire comes right out . . . stripped, tinned
and ready for installation on the new switch. Of course the
finished joints will enjoy the benefits of one to two layers
of heat shrink . . . and this is true whether you make joints
that are easy to open later . . . or difficult.
Find some 63/37 solder. Just about anyone who bothers
to even offer such a finely tuned ratio will be a good
source.
http://www.action-electronics.com/kester.htm
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:20 pm Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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At 07:12 PM 1/26/2007 -0500, you wrote:
Yeah, this one works too . . . just harder to replace. Leave some
service loop wire at the end . . . say 2" extra or so such that
a damaged or worn jack can be simply cut off and there's enough
slack to install a new jack.
Bob . . .
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echristley(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 7:28 am Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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Rodney Dunham wrote:
For the totally anal out there, the joint shown in that link would have
failed the soldering class I took at Community College oh-so-many years ago.
The prescribed practice we were taught was to tin the wire, and then
bend the end to make a hook. Hook the hole, then clamp the wire so that
it squeezes the tab. Now flow in just enough solder so that there is a
good fillet flowing into the tab, but the individual wire strands are
still visible. The wire strands should retain the original twist. The
idea is that:
1) joint can be inspected to verify that there is good wet out of the
wire and the connector
2) the joint has the mechanical strength of the hook
3) the joint is easily disassembled later by reflowing the solder.
In practice, if I'm forced to solder instead of using a crimped Fast-On
connector, I make a hook without tinning the wire first, and flow in
enough solder to get a good fillet. I may or may not put in to much
solder, depending on if I have a good Kester or .050 Radio Shack stuff
on hand.
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:58 pm Post subject: Solder tab connectors |
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At 10:28 AM 1/27/2007 -0500, you wrote:
| Quote: |
<echristley(at)nc.rr.com>
Rodney Dunham wrote:
>
><rdunhamtn(at)hotmail.com>
>
>Greg,
>
>Try this link...
>
>www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Jack_Tab_Soldering/Jack_Tab_Soldering.html
>
>Rod
For the totally anal out there, the joint shown in that link would have
failed the soldering class I took at Community College oh-so-many years ago.
The prescribed practice we were taught was to tin the wire, and then bend
the end to make a hook. Hook the hole, then clamp the wire so that it
squeezes the tab. Now flow in just enough solder so that there is a good
fillet flowing into the tab, but the individual wire strands are still
visible. The wire strands should retain the original twist. The idea is that:
1) joint can be inspected to verify that there is good wet out of the wire
and the connector
2) the joint has the mechanical strength of the hook
3) the joint is easily disassembled later by reflowing the solder.
|
| Quote: | In practice, if I'm forced to solder instead of using a crimped Fast-On
connector, I make a hook without tinning the wire first, and flow in
enough solder to get a good fillet. I may or may not put in to much
solder, depending on if I have a good Kester or .050 Radio Shack stuff on hand.
|
Yeah, I've taken those classes . . . and taught them.
That was decades before solder was magically transformed
from some status just above library paste to an amazing
new material with real structural properties that would
hold wires together and/or keep all the parts on an
etched circuit board using solder alone.
The real key to good solder is clean, flux, 63/37 alloy
and support of stranded wires across the transition from
immobilized and free-strands. All of these conditions are
easy to meet and they essentially pushes aside a great
deal of what we used to teach. The most important idea to
fall was that "hooking" added mechanical strength while
in fact, it's most useful duty was to hold the two halves
of the joint immobile should you not have really good solder
with which to make the joint.
Use good solder, get good flow, protect the stranding
transition and whatever else happens is insignificant to
the extreme.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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