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aileron slop

 
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jonboede(at)hotmail.com
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 1:08 am    Post subject: aileron slop Reply with quote

If you "clamp" one aileron from moving and then wiggle the other one, how
much movement is "ok" before you should consider getting new links?

I have determined that all the slop is being allowed in the last linkage to
the aileron. When I hold one and move the other I can jiggle it about
3/16ths of an inch. Makes me a little nervous.

Jon


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dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:39 am    Post subject: aileron slop Reply with quote

Jon,
IMHO, no slop is acceptable. The slop you've identified may be caused by a
damaged bearing either on one of the bellcranks or at the aileron itself.
Many of the bearings are self aligning bearings and if not properly
maintained over the years (pre Jon Boede), especially the ones exposed to
the elements, can literally fall apart. Dirt and grit are a bearing's worst
enemy. If it were my airplane, I would confirm the cause of the slop and
correct it immediately.
Dennis

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rvfltd(at)televar.com
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:02 am    Post subject: aileron slop Reply with quote

Jon,
Slop in the ailerons can come from three places. One or more pivot
bearings on the ail are totally gutted, OR the bearing in the end plate
on the inbd end of the aileron is loose (This can jamb the ailerons in
flight if it comes loose), OR your aileron links are shot, which is my
guess. The aileron links H2-5316-00 (actually called #7 pull rod in the
parts book) have 2 bearings in each of them. There are however two
types of aileron links, thin (for earlier CJ's, and thick for the later
CJ's. The bearings can wear out rather rapidly if your aileron stop
bolts are not properly adjusted or the rubber tips are crushed or
missing. The stop bolts are the little bolts which have rubber tips on
them, there is one on each side of the stick in the front cockpit, they
have a lock nut on them, this is where you adjust/limit the travel of
the aileron. There are also stop bolts on the rudder peddles which
limit the travel of the rudder . It takes a while but not using your
gust locks also tends to help destroy the rubber tips on the stop bolts
when the ailerons bang in the wind. I do not know of any published
"slop tolerances" that are acceptable in either the ailerons or the
rudder. That's not saying that your going to fall out of the sky if
you don't fix the problem immediately, but this condition should not go
long without someone taking a very serious look at where the slop is
actually coming from.

Hope all this helps,

Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp

Jon Boede wrote:

Quote:


If you "clamp" one aileron from moving and then wiggle the other one,
how much movement is "ok" before you should consider getting new links?

I have determined that all the slop is being allowed in the last
linkage to the aileron. When I hold one and move the other I can
jiggle it about 3/16ths of an inch. Makes me a little nervous.

Jon



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cpayne(at)joimail.com
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:49 pm    Post subject: aileron slop Reply with quote

Doug wrote:
>
> It takes a while but not using your
Quote:
gust locks also tends to help destroy the rubber tips on the stop bolts
when the ailerons bang in the wind.
>

Exactly! That's why I made up industrial strength gust locks that relieve the strain from the control system. Helps me to sleep at night when "baby" is on the tiedown. I'm such a firm believer that I now offer these gust locks for sale. The stuff you buy from Spruce or Sporty's only concentrates loads on a small area of each control surface; little comfort from wind or snow/ice loads when outside.

I even put them on when parked in group hangers. I've seen more damage to my airplanes in group hangers than I have on tiedowns.

Once I saw what the propwash from a DC-3 did to a C-175 owned by a friend, nasty damage on the empennage. He used the yoke pin type lock that did nothing to protect the actual surfaces or cable system.

Craig Payne
cpayne(at)joimail.com (cpayne(at)joimail.com)



[quote][b]


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