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Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e

 
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bldgrv10450(at)comcast.ne
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:11 am    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

How would epoxy work for these vs. rivets?

Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.

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zackrv8



Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 133

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone Reply with quote

Paul,

3M 2216 Epoxy works great on items like the rudder cable fairings and the NACA vents. I have epoxied the NACA vents and rudder cable fairings on my RV8. No problems after 1000 hours and 7 years of operation!

Zack

[quote="bldgrv10450(at)comcast.ne"]How would epoxy work for these vs. rivets?

Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.

do not archive

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RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 3:54 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

Hi Paul,

Epoxy would work great, but I would take notice to what the othes are
saying. I just installed my rudder cables yesterday and there would be no
way to put the cables with their proective housing through the slot in the
tailcone skin if the fairing where already on. With that said, in the
unlikely or unfortunate event that the cables ever need to be replaced, how
will you get them out or put new ones in without taking the fairing off and
in the case of a well bonged fairing, possibly taking part of the fuselage
skin off with it.

I was going to bond mine, but not after what i learned yesterday.

Like Jesse said, the protective tube in itself is a pretty good fairing
already.

JOhn G. #409

[quote]From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on
Tailcone w/ epoxy
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:04:43 -0800
How would epoxy work for these vs. rivets?

Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.

do not archive

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jjessen



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 4:26 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

What type of epoxy?

John Jessen

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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:41 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

On mine I made all of the rudder cable fairings removable (#6 nutplates)
just so I could always get the cables out if needed for service. It was
a little extra work, but I'm happy I did it. I did the fuselage ones
here:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tailcone%208.
html

and I did the ones in the tunnel area here:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Control%20sti
ck.html

there's no closeup picture for the one on the tunnel, but you can see it
in some of the pics. I'm happy I did both this way, because you can
actually have the fairing a little more forward (for the tunnel) or
rearward (for the tailcone) over the hole and have the cable guide end
flush with the end of the fairing, and it kind of captures the cable
guide between the skin and the fairing. It works pretty well, and I'm
happy with how it looks. Also, in the unlikely event that you had to
pull it off, it's a snap.

cj
#40410
stuck at work today - no airplaning Sad
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net

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AV8ORJWC



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:52 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

The replacement method is Swagging. Just like the method to install the
end piece in the first place. High Pressure crimping of the uninstalled
end piece on to a properly cut flexible cable. Scissor/Rock/Paper,
stainless steel flexible cables always win over chaffing aluminum parts.

However, Kudo's to John for thinking and articulating future servicing
needs during the build process. You would be amazed how many gloss over
this fine point.

John Cox
#40600
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armywrights(at)adelphia.n
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:39 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

Bill,

I had the same thought when I did the tailcone. I’m glad I waited- here’s what I did:

Once you’re to the point of the cable fitting step in the Fuse plans, get your cable fairings out and insert the cable through the opening. Hold the fairing against the skin and slide it back and forth until you can just take the cable end through the hole with only a slight effort. Mark the fairing at that position, trim as desired, then rivet on with dimples/flush rivets. The cable sheath will be captured by an Adel clamp inside the tailcone so the sheath won’t move. When I attached the adel clamp I pushed just a slight amount of sheath through the opening so that the cable would have less of a tendency to rub/cut a groove.

On the cabin inside I used nutplates and made the fairings removeable. When I install the inside ends I’ll capture the sheath under the fairing itself to hold it in place.

I’m lazy lately on pics, don’t have any of this right now.

Rob Wright
#392
Fuse – skipping to Wheel Pants while still jacked up!


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 11:05 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ epoxy




How would epoxy work for these vs. rivets?



Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.



do not archive


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armywrights(at)adelphia.n
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:41 pm    Post subject: Avery's Rudder Cable Fairings: Installation on Tailcone w/ e Reply with quote

Oh yeah,

I also applied a little fillet of proseal around the forward end of the
outside fairings since after dimpling they didn't quite sit flush and I
didn't want to work harden them trying to make the fit perfect. Looks nice
and smooth, we'll see how it is after it's painted...

Rob Wright
#392
Fuse

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