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RV6 - Rear spar question

 
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jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:32 am    Post subject: RV6 - Rear spar question Reply with quote
Hi,

I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??

Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar

Any comments here greatly appreciated

Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...

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webmaster(at)flion.com
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:16 am    Post subject: RV6 - Rear spar question Reply with quote
Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib,
rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside -
keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap
brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until
the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace.

Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame

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stevea(at)svpal.org
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:04 pm    Post subject: RV6 - Rear spar question Reply with quote
Jan,

I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward,
inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made
it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can
be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end
of the wing.

Steve Allison
RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins Smile

jan wrote:
Quote:
Hi,

I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??

Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar

Any comments here greatly appreciated

Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...


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jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:20 pm    Post subject: RV6 - Rear spar question Reply with quote
Thanks for that !

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jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:25 pm    Post subject: RV6 - Rear spar question Reply with quote
Thanks ..

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