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Static Line Routing

 
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:21 pm    Post subject: Static Line Routing Reply with quote

Does Van's document a static line routing in the plans? Especially a
routing forward of the tailcone section.

I've viewed a number of builder solutions for the tailcone section but
haven't seen what people are doing forward of the tailcone - from the
battery to the panel - and wherever else it needs to go (various air
computers imbedded in any of the electronics).

I'm trying to close up the baggage floor and this is one of the last of
the lines that need to be buried underneath.

Thanks
Bill "amazing how much homebuilding you can do when you call in sick" Watson
Durham NC
40605


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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:50 pm    Post subject: Static Line Routing Reply with quote

Turns out that what I missed is the fact that there is a close-out panel
on the right side of baggage bay. I thought it stayed open.

Thanks Bob!

Bill "too many meds to continue working tonight" Watson
40605
MauleDriver wrote:
Quote:


Does Van's document a static line routing in the plans? Especially a
routing forward of the tailcone section.

I've viewed a number of builder solutions for the tailcone section but
haven't seen what people are doing forward of the tailcone - from the
battery to the panel - and wherever else it needs to go (various air
computers imbedded in any of the electronics).

I'm trying to close up the baggage floor and this is one of the last
of the lines that need to be buried underneath.



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AirMike



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:24 pm    Post subject: Static Line Routing Reply with quote

Myself and several other West Coast builders are running it along the right (co-pilot) side. From what I have seen, most of us are running either 4 or 5 conduits from the rear to the front. Two or three along each side with the static line along the right side. The plans really force you to do this "pre-wiring" work before you are really ready. You will probably need to cut a few holes. I went and bought the Van's pre-wiring kit which is really a pretty good deal. The wiring is all pre-measured and is really a good value for the electronic micro-cephalic.

I find that one of my three complaints about the great RV10 plans are :

1. the baggage and rear seat floors should be nut plated for work, electrical installation, and inspections
2. the finish quality of the fiberglass cabin top/ doors - the quality of the product is poor
3. The inner (fwd) sub instrument panel makes for a difficult avionics installation


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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:05 am    Post subject: Static Line Routing Reply with quote

Thanks for the insight.

I've taken a similar yet slightly different route. I agree that the
Van's pre-wiring kit is great. I took the approach of getting the plans
for it without the kit so I could adapt it to a dual batt, dual
alternator, split bus design. Then ordering the parts I needed
separately. Some parts I didn't use - some I ordered multiples of. I
used that basic left side run of wires from the batteries to the
firewall and duplicated the clamps, brackets and routing on the left
side tool. Having to make so many electrical decisions before closing
the floor seems like a pain but I bit the bullet and tried to put a plan
in place for all systems that require front to back wire runs. I've now
filled both left and right cable paths with cable. I've added 2
conduits to enable future wire runs be for now they are empty.

It now dawns on me that while it would be nice to wait a while before
being forced to run cables, there is a benefit to getting the bulk of
that done before added the fiberglass top and stuff. But nut plates
would be great.
AirMike wrote:
Quote:


Myself and several other West Coast builders are running it along the right (co-pilot) side. From what I have seen, most of us are running either 4 or 5 conduits from the rear to the front. Two or three along each side with the static line along the right side. The plans really force you to do this "pre-wiring" work before you are really ready. You will probably need to cut a few holes. I went and bought the Van's pre-wiring kit which is really a pretty good deal. The wiring is all pre-measured and is really a good value for the electronic micro-cephalic.

I find that one of my three complaints about the great RV10 plans are :

1. the baggage and rear seat floors should be nut plated for work, electrical installation, and inspections
2. the finish quality of the fiberglass cabin top/ doors - the quality of the product is poor
3. The inner (fwd) sub instrument panel makes for a difficult avionics installation

--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff



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