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Dick Sipp
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 215 Location: Hope, MI
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Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:11 pm Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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Does anyone recall the name and contact information for the gentleman that builds and repairs fuel tanks?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
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larywil(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:42 pm Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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Hi gang
While we're on the subject of tanks...
Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like
at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears
some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and
remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have
never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some
suggestions? Like what to watch out for.
Thank in advance.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs.
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
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truflite(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:50 pm Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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Evan Johnson?
www.evansaviationproducts.com
Dave Nellis
7A wings in Mid Feb.
--- rsipp(at)earthlink.net wrote:
Quote: |
Does anyone recall the name and contact information
for the gentleman that builds and repairs fuel
tanks?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
browse
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dcw(at)mnwing.org Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:55 pm Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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I have done this a couple times.
Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove
sending unit.
Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner.
Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's.
Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also.
Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also
Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel).
Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at
your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets.
Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws
and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up.
Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation.
I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours
On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net> wrote:
Quote: |
Hi gang
While we're on the subject of tanks...
Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like
at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears
some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and
remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have
never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some
suggestions? Like what to watch out for.
Thank in advance.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs.
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
|
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JohnInReno
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 150
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Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:40 pm Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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Really dumb question... Do you take the tanks off of the wing first or do it in place?
John Morgensen
Doug Weiler wrote: [quote] Quote: | --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> (dcw(at)mnwing.org)
I have done this a couple times.
Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove
sending unit.
Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner.
Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's.
Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also.
Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also
Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel).
Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at
your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets.
Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws
and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up.
Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation.
I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours
On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net> (larywil(at)comcast.net) wrote:
Quote: | --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> (larywil(at)comcast.net)
Hi gang
While we're on the subject of tanks...
Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like
at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears
some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and
remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have
never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some
suggestions? Like what to watch out for.
Thank in advance.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs.
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
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_________________ John Morgensen
RV-9A - Born on July 3, 2013
RV4 - for sale |
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kboatright1(at)comcast.ne Guest
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Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:09 am Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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Removing the access plates, senders, etc., is a fairly straightforward job with the tanks still attached. One thing to consider is that many builders have had problems with the access plates leaking if the plates were installed with anything other than proseal. On mine, I initially used proseal and cork gaskets (had to make 'em, Van's didn't supply them back in the day), and they held up well until I destroyed 'em complying with the fuel pick-up SB. When I replaced the covers, I did not use gaskets and just resealed with proseal. My personal belief is that a proseal only installation is preferred.
Kyle Boatright
2001 RV-6
[quote] ---
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dcw(at)mnwing.org Guest
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Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:37 am Post subject: Custom tank builder |
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I took the tanks off and really felt it was not a big issue. BTW, I initially used Proseal when I built my RV-4 to seal the tanks and they leaked (probably my installation process). Other in the area had used Form A Gasket with 100% success and that is what I used when I resealed the tanks after the SB requirement.
Doug
On 1/18/08 10:34 PM, "John Morgensen" <john(at)morgensen.com> wrote:
Quote: | Really dumb question... Do you take the tanks off of the wing first or do it in place?
John Morgensen
Doug Weiler wrote:
Quote: |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> <mailto:dcw(at)mnwing.org> (dcw(at)mnwing.org)
I have done this a couple times.
Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove
sending unit.
Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner.
Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's.
Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also.
Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also
Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel).
Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at
your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets.
Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws
and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up.
Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation.
I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours
On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net> <mailto:larywil(at)comcast.net> (larywil(at)comcast.net) wrote:
Quote: |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> <mailto:larywil(at)comcast.net> (larywil(at)comcast.net)
Hi gang
While we're on the subject of tanks...
Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like
at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears
some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and
remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have
never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some
suggestions? Like what to watch out for.
Thank in advance.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs.
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
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