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RUDDER CABLES

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craigb(at)onthenet.com.au
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:46 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

I am curious if any of you have used shrouded  cables to get around the need to

 run the cables "straight" from front to back. After  much work getting my fuel system

 set before bonding in the cockpit module in i now  discover my reserve pump is in the way for the rhs rudder cable. I can see that  moving the fuel pump and lines will now be

 a royal pain given the very limited access and  think changing the cables for cables with an outer would be a better way to  go.

  

 craig

   [quote][b]

josok-e(at)ukolo.fi
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:57 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi Craig,



There are a few things why i decided against shrouded cable.

Water ingress and freezing (at altitude) and difficult to inspect on a regular bases. Is it not possible to use an extra pulley or so? 



Regards,



Jos Okhuijsen

Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org

budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:34 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Craig,

 I shroud all my cables from the front to just shy of the pulley and then  continue back to the ply supports for the luggage bay and again through the rear  bulkhead and out.  I use good quality 1/4 inch OD Nylaflow Nylon Tubing for  plenty of clearance and no binding.  You still should de-conflict all  tubing and wiring so there is no interference or chaffing.  With the  Nylaflow tubing I don't have to worry about wire or hoses interfering  accidentally with cables during maneuvering or vibration I did not  anticipate.  The Nylaflow gives you some leway to adjust your cable  routing.  Use an Adel clamp to secure the Nylaflow to keep your  clearances.  The same problem occurs when you mount the glider wing handle  in the cockpit.  the handle pivot seems to go right through the cable  line.

  

 Bud Yerly

 custom Flight Creations

  

  

 -

kheindl(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:05 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Craig,

  

 I did much the same. It is a perfect way to keep the cable safe and away from other things like wiring.  I used p-clips.

 Pardon my ignorence,  Jos, but what extreme situation would freeze up the rudder cables ? Where does all that water

 come from and how cold does it have to be to freeze ? I know it gets pretty cold in Finland, but not that cold.

 And if there is so much water in the cold air, wouldn't you have crashed a long time ago with ice on the wings ?

 Additional pulleys are more mechanics, which can go wrong.

 I can see my cable runs from inside the cockpit, and I have never noticed any moisture in the nylaflow tube.

  

 Karl

 



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 [quote]  From: budyerly(at)msn.com

To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Europa-List: RUDDER CABLES

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:26:18 -0500



      Craig,

 I shroud all my cables from the front to just shy of the pulley and then continue back to the ply supports for the luggage bay and again through the rear bulkhead and out.  I use good quality 1/4 inch OD Nylaflow Nylon Tubing for plenty of clearance and no binding.  You still should de-conflict all tubing and wiring so there is no interference or chaffing.  With the Nylaflow tubing I don't have to worry about wire or hoses interfering accidentally with cables during maneuvering or vibration I did not anticipate.  The Nylaflow gives you some leway to adjust your cable routing.  Use an Adel clamp to secure the Nylaflow to keep your clearances.  The same problem occurs when you mount the glider wing handle in the cockpit.  the handle pivot seems to go right through the cable line.

  

 Bud Yerly

 custom Flight Creations

  

  

 -

josok-e(at)ukolo.fi
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:55 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi Carl,



Water comes from rain, splashes around in the wheel well, and freezes at about 0 C. Here in Finland at least. Temperature drops here, as everywhere else in standard air with 2 C per 1000 ft. Not so very difficult to reach freezing temperatures, even on a nice warm summer day. Water will collect over time, in any lower spot. You don't need much of it, to lock up completely when turned into ice. I once had a frozen throttle cable on a snowmobile at close to full throttle ,and that cable was pretty good, but not good enough protected against water ingress. It was a pretty hairy, and very impressive demonstration of what a droplet of iced water can do. According to Murphy, if it will happen, it will happen in a situation where it can do most damage. Oh, i do have shrouds at the in- out fuselage transition at the rear near the rudder. But that piece is sloping down from the dry inside. 

Everybody of course can do what he likes when diverting from factory ideas. Shrouding of course is a much easier way of guiding the cables.  If you do, take care to avoid a low spot!

Btw, how do you inspect your shrouded rudder cables or is it a case of what you don't see does not matter  ? 



Regards,



Jos Okhuijsen

Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org

kheindl(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:47 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi Jos,

  

 I understand. That snowmobile incident must have been interesting. I forgot about the mono. I don't have that open belly, full of mud and grass (and snow?). But the tubing could be taken right up to the firewall. Mine is oversized, not for any clever reason, it just seemd a good idea.

 Inspection is easy: I just look at it through the transparent tubing.

 Happy winter flying

  

 Karl

  

  

  

  

 

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 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Re: RUDDER CABLES

 From: josok-e(at)ukolo.fi

 Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 20:15:22 +0200

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi>

 

 Hi Carl,

 

 Water comes from rain, splashes around in the wheel well, and freezes at about 0 C. Here in Finland at least. Temperature drops here, as everywhere else in standard air with 2 C per 1000 ft. Not so very difficult to reach freezing temperatures, even on a nice warm summer day. Water will collect over time, in any lower spot. You don't need much of it, to lock up completely when turned into ice. I once had a frozen throttle cable on a snowmobile at close to full throttle ,and that cable was pretty good, but not good enough protected against water ingress. It was a pretty hairy, and very impressive demonstration of what a droplet of iced water can do. According to Murphy, if it will happen, it will happen in a situation where it can do most damage. Oh, i do have shrouds at the in- out fuselage transition at the rear near the rudder. But that piece is sloping down from the dry inside. 

 Everybody of course can do what he likes when diverting from factory ideas. Shrouding of course is a much easier way of guiding the cables. If you do, take care to avoid a low spot!

 Btw, how do you inspect your shrouded rudder cables or is it a case of what you don't see does not matter  ? 

 

 Regards,

 

 Jos Okhuijsen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org

 

 > ========================> 

 

 


	


  [quote][b]

craigb(at)onthenet.com.au
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:34 pm Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Karl you mentioned you can see your cables from  inside the cockpit, I take it from that

 you have them running along the outside of the  tunnel next to the seats

  

 craig

   [quote][b]

kheindl(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:33 pm Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

No, everything except some wiring is along the inside walls of the tunnel. I have a removable cover on the tunnel and a window in the bottom and front of the tunnel. Even though I have the finger brakes and also the airbrake control in the tunnel, I still have most of it available for storage and camera. The throttle is push/pull below the panel, the airbrake handle comes out at the top left side of the tunnel and is also removable via pip pins.

  

 Karl

  

 



<html><div></div></html>

 [quote]  From: craigb(at)onthenet.com.au

To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Europa-List: RE: RUDDER CABLES

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 06:29:01 +1000



     Karl you mentioned you can see your cables from inside the cockpit, I take it from that

 you have them running along the outside of the tunnel next to the seats

  

 craig

 	  Quote: 	
		  



arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List

p://forums.matronics.com

blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	
[b]

fklein(at)orcasonline.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:50 pm Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

On this topic, I'm intending to install a pair of turnbuckles to enable 

tension adjustment. For ease of access, I would be placing them just 

aft of the removable "D" panel in the baggage bay bulkhead. Would 

anyone offer a comment or two on this issue?  Perhaps I'm overlooking 

something...



Thanks,



Fred

A194

-- 

This message has been scanned for viruses and

dangerous content by MailScanner, and is

believed to be clean.

ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:31 pm Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Fred,

I did just that. I also put a protection '2 x bid' layup under the 

turnbuckles to protect the floor. I then fed the cables through a guide 

either side of the push-rod containment stop raising the cables off the 

floor less then 10 degrees angle.

Turnbuckles are good although I must say I haven't adjusted them much (only 

once) with 160 hours flying, however they do allow you to correct the 

steering alignment.

Cheer,

Tim

Tim Ward

12 Waiwetu Street,

Fendalton,

CHRISTCHURCH 8052

NEW ZEALAND



Ph :64 03 3515166

Mob:  021 0640221



email:

ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz

---

ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:47 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi! Fred

Yes, I used turnbuckles but get the ones with a spring locking device, I

also have retrospectively glued some felt on the floor in the region of

their operation, saves a horrible bang in the very rare event of contact

with the floor, all minor direction changes I've run them through

appropriate diameter plastic "spirol cable wrap" which if you should

ever need to remove them you just uncurl the wrap.(usually positioned

alongside a small block of wood fixed by a blob of Redux to the floor.

In the rare event (trike) of any water or whatever contamination the

spirol wrap is forgiving rather than cause a seize up.

Regards

Bob Harrison G-PTAG



--

paul.the.aviator(at)gmail
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:36 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi Fred,



I did this, but in 3 years I have never had the need to adjust them.

It was helpful for initial setup though.



Cheers,  Paul

topglock(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:57 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Fred, if you are careful when you make up the cables, you shouldn't need 

to make any adjustments.  There is no real tension on the cables, except 

that provided by the return springs.  Just more weight in my book...



Jeff - Baby blue

373 hrs



Fred Klein wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 On this topic, I'm intending to install a pair of turnbuckles to enable 

 tension adjustment. For ease of access, I would be placing them just aft 

 of the removable "D" panel in the baggage bay bulkhead. Would anyone 

 offer a comment or two on this issue?  Perhaps I'm overlooking something...

 

 Thanks,

 

 Fred

 A194

karelvranken(at)hotmail.c
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:08 am Post subject: RUDDER CABLES

Hi Fred,

I did like you intend to do. Just I used aluminium turnbuckles instead of 

brass, they are much lighter and don't sweep the bottom of the fuselage.

The advantage was shown when I had to replace the forward half of the 

starboard rudder cable who was damaged by the brake caliper.

Wish you good building.

Karel Vranken. # 447  F-PKRL

---

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