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longg(at)pjm.com Guest
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Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 9:54 am Post subject: ANL Distribution Panel |
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I was reading my Porsche Boxster repair manual the other day...
Porsche uses a distribution box which has 5-6 ANL fuses mounted inside.
Picture it as a fuse block with hookups for ANL type fuses. The purpose
is to distribute current protected by various amperage ANL's to fuse
blocks segments which are organized by function and size.
Has anyone attempted this kind of design and is there any value of which
surpasses the increased part count?
Thanks
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 11:40 am Post subject: ANL Distribution Panel |
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At 01:50 PM 5/16/2008 -0400, you wrote:
Quote: |
I was reading my Porsche Boxster repair manual the other day...
Porsche uses a distribution box which has 5-6 ANL fuses mounted inside.
Picture it as a fuse block with hookups for ANL type fuses. The purpose
is to distribute current protected by various amperage ANL's to fuse
blocks segments which are organized by function and size.
Has anyone attempted this kind of design and is there any value of which
surpasses the increased part count?
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The ANL style fuse is the easiest device to
accommodate with a DIY fuse block. Further,
know that there are some miniature siblings to
the relatively 'boss-hogg' ANL devices. Here's
an ANL base:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/ANN-ANL_Base.jpg
Here's a base intended to mount the MEGA series
current limiters:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/all_mega.JPG
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/megafuse250.gif
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/mfb736_angle.gif
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/mfb736_dwg.jpg
Here are some alternative, high current, stud mounted
devices:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/ABI_fuses.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/BF2.jpg
The common thread for mounting these or similar fuses
is a pair of sturdy, captive threaded posts. These
can be steel bolts (we don't depend on bolt for
current carrying). Fabricate a block from sturdy,
insulating material like phenolic, Delrin, Polysulphone,
etc. You need some sheet material with a thickness on
the order of 1/2 to 5/8 inch. Drill hole pattern for
installation of one or more fuses. Counter bore back
side to take heads of bolts just under flush. Install
bolts with one nut and no washer. Pot the head of the
bolt with JB Weld. After epoxy sets up, remove nut
and re=install using thread locker on nut. JB Weld
works here too. Torque down real good.
Of course, you'll need mounting holes in the base
for installation. You may also need a copper sheet
or brass bus-bar between studs at one end. Go
3/4" wide x .062 or more thickness.
After the stud-nuts cure, install in a/c and
set your fuse down first before stacking terminals
onto the studs. Put flat washer on and secure with
fiber lock-nut torqued to value recommended by AC43.13 for
steel parts of same size. Hold your wires stationary
while applying final torque so that you avoid
this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/ANL_Twisted.jpg
Once assembled, the system is quite stable due to
rigidity of the potted heads on studs.
Bottom line is that with a little time at the table
saw, drill press and belt sander, you can build
a perfectly acceptable fuse block for any of the
many choices of stud-mounted protective devices.
Here's a multi-fuse installation on a production
aircraft:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Contactor_Interconnect/Contactor_Strap_3.jpg
We COULD have made a much smaller and lighter
installation from scratch but the qualification
costs were prohibitive. You folks are not so
hindered . . .
Bob . . .
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