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bobair8(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: Embarassing Confession -- I Can't Start My Engine |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Folks,
I have about ten hours of my Phase I flying on a GlaStar with an O-360-A1A. The engine has new rings and exhaust valves so I've been running it hard and full rich. The engine has become increasingly difficult to start and I want to make sure it isn't my technique before I start pulling plugs, etc. I haven't flown in the ten years it took me to build the airplane and my total time in that time (not including the ten hours in the GlaStar) has been about 14 hours of recent recurrency training in other people's airplanes.
I've used the normal start (full rich and throttle cracked about 1/4" inch) but it doesn't want to fire. I've also used (sparingly) primer for a couple of seconds (my primer is electric to cylinders 3 & 4). The problem is worse when the engine is hot (and it's already hot outside here in central Texas -- 85 to 95 degrees).
I've also used the flooded engine start (mixture at idle cut-off and throttle full forward) when the engine wouldn't start with the normal technique. At least this was the technique I used years ago in an injected Mooney for hot starts.
How can I tell if it's not getting enough fuel, too much fuel, or if my plugs have fouled because of a too rich mixture? I have been leaning the engine when taxiing.
Best regards,
Bob
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grant.piper(at)bigpond.co
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| Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:15 am Post subject: Embarassing Confession -- I Can't Start My Engine |
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I have the same engine and primer system in my RV-4. I prime for about 3 bananas when cold (below 15°C) and open the throttle about 1/4" or so, then crank. My carb has the Mooney mod to enrichen it over the original jet (can't recall mod number, but it is too rich at low altitude now, i aggressively lean on the ground). If it is a warm day, I'll just pump the throttle once, set 1/4", then crank. If the engine is warm I'll open the throttle wider initially, ~1/2", and progressively open it as I crank until it fires, then quickly back to idle. If this doesn't work, I'll re-prime, but less than for a cold start. I always start on the left maggie only, then switch on the right mag as soon as it fires (I have individual toggle switches). If this doesn't work for you, I'd check the magneto switch wiring. I stuffed mine up iniitially and was trying to start on the RH mag only (non-impulse), and had obvious trouble! (amazed that I managed to start it as often as I did!).
good luck
Grant
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Dale Ensing
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC
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| Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 3:57 am Post subject: Embarassing Confession -- I Can't Start My Engine |
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Is it carbureted or injected?
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Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
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glcasey
Joined: 01 Jul 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 4:18 am Post subject: Embarassing Confession -- I Can't Start My Engine |
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Bob,
To your question about how to tell if it is rich or lean, I've found
the best way is to have someone watch from the outside. If it is
difficult to start, but when it does there is no puff of black smoke
it was probably too lean. If there is a lot of smoke and the engine
runs on less than all cylinders for a bit after it starts then it was
too rich. Otherwise, it is often really hard to tell.
I have a suspicion it is time to start pulling plugs. Your engine is
new, probably burning some oil, and you have been deliberately
running rich, so the plugs might be fouled to the point that starting
is difficult. One thing I have found that helped in that condition
is to before you shut it off run the engine at a fairly fast idle -
as high as the noise level will let you get away with - even up to
the runup rpm or beyond if you want. Lean the mixture as far as
possible while keeping it running halfway smooth, at least until you
get a real rpm loss. Run it that way for 5 seconds or more and then
pull the mixture to shut it off from that condition. Don't go back
to idle before shutting it off. You can pull the throttle back to
idle as it is spinning down to make it shake as little as possible as
it stops, but that doesn't have very much effect. Idea is to burn
off the loose carbon and get the plugs cleaned a little for the next
start. After the engine stops burning so much oil and you are able
to run lean more of the time the problem should go away, if that was
the problem in the first place. Good luck.
Gary Casey
| Quote: |
Folks,
I have about ten hours of my Phase I flying on a GlaStar with an
O-360-A1A. The engine has new rings and exhaust valves so I've been
running it hard and full rich. The engine has become increasingly
difficult to start and I want to make sure it isn't my technique
before
I start pulling plugs, etc. I haven't flown in the ten years it
took me
to build the airplane and my total time in that time (not including
the
ten hours in the GlaStar) has been about 14 hours of recent recurrency
training in other people's airplanes.
I've used the normal start (full rich and throttle cracked about
1/4"
inch) but it doesn't want to fire. I've also used (sparingly) primer
for a couple of seconds (my primer is electric to cylinders 3 &
4). The
problem is worse when the engine is hot (and it's already hot outside
here in central Texas -- 85 to 95 degrees).
I've also used the flooded engine start (mixture at idle cut-off and
throttle full forward) when the engine wouldn't start with the normal
technique. At least this was the technique I used years ago in an
injected Mooney for hot starts.
How can I tell if it's not getting enough fuel, too much fuel, or if
my plugs have fouled because of a too rich mixture? I have been
leaning
the engine when taxiing.
Best regards,
Bob
|
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_________________
Gary Casey |
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