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Electrical problems

 
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:23 pm    Post subject: Electrical problems Reply with quote

Friends,

I have asked these questions directly to several "gurus" and have gotten no response. Maybe someone on this forum can help me out. Since the forum does not allow enclosures, I have not attached my electrical schematic. Anyone wishing to help, please contact me directly and I will send a pdf of my schematic.

I have just begun running the WW-built Corvair 2700 engine on my nearly completed Zodiac 601XL. At present, according to my Dynon EMS-D10, I have negative 3 or 4 amps output from my alternator. Obviously, I need to find out if that is actually the case, and if it is, why.

1) Do I have the ammeter shunt correctly connected to the EMS? (Amps Low to the battery side of the shunt; Amps High to the main bus side)

2) I have seen at least four different ways to connect the S704-1 Alternator OV Disconnect Relay. Do I have mine correctly configured? (Must see schematic)

And on another subject:

3) I have each tach lead from the EMS connected through an in-line, fast blow, 0.5amp fuse, to the negative terminal of the coil. When the engine is turning 2,000 rpm (according to my hand held optical tach) the EMS tach is very erratic, reading from 1300 to 1800 rpm, running on either coil. Is there something I can do to correct this?

Thanks in advance - Jay Bannister [quote][b]


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:28 pm    Post subject: Electrical problems Reply with quote

At 09:19 PM 7/1/2008 -0400, you wrote:
Quote:
Friends,

I have asked these questions directly to several "gurus" and have gotten
no response. Maybe someone on this forum can help me out. Since the forum
does not allow enclosures, I have not attached my electrical schematic.
Anyone wishing to help, please contact me directly and I will send a pdf
of my schematic.

This forum DOES allow attachments. Suggest you
repeat this note for the group. The reason I didn't
respond to your direct inquiry was that I was out
of town and just got back.
Quote:
I have just begun running the WW-built Corvair 2700 engine on my nearly
completed Zodiac 601XL. At present, according to my Dynon EMS-D10, I have
negative 3 or 4 amps output from my alternator. Obviously, I need to find
out if that is actually the case, and if it is, why.

Your ammeter shunt is wired to read total electrical
load and has nothing to do with alternator output.
It has not been wired per the recommended architecture
for an alternator load meter . . . therefore, the reading
you're getting may be okay. Does your system have
a voltmeter? What is the bus voltage when engine
RPM is above 2000?
Quote:
1) Do I have the ammeter shunt correctly connected to the EMS? (Amps Low
to the battery side of the shunt; Amps High to the main bus side)

Don't know what Lo and Hi means with respect to your particular
ammeter.
Quote:
2) I have seen at least four different ways to connect the S704-1
Alternator OV Disconnect Relay. Do I have mine correctly configured?
(Must see schematic)

It's fine
Quote:
And on another subject:

3) I have each tach lead from the EMS connected through an in-line, fast
blow, 0.5amp fuse, to the negative terminal of the coil. When the engine
is turning 2,000 rpm (according to my hand held optical tach) the EMS tach
is very erratic, reading from 1300 to 1800 rpm, running on either
coil. Is there something I can do to correct this?

There might be an individual who knows if the
EMS tachometer circuit is compatible with a Kettering
ignition.

Other noteworthy features in your schematic:
Since you have an all-electric engine, suggest
you run pumps and ignition systems directly from
battery bus. The ignition systems should have their
own fuses right at the bus (like your pumps) as opposed
to the fuses downstream of the power switch.

Suggest you run individual switches for each ignition
and pump circuit so that a switch failure doesn't
kill both pathways.

Suggest flaps run from the main bus, not the endurance
bus.
Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------


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frank.hinde(at)hp.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:28 am    Post subject: Electrical problems Reply with quote

It depends on what you are trying to measure with the shunt.....You can measure three things..1) Alternator output, 2) electrical load, current going in/out of the battery.

It seems to make most sense to measure the alternator output as this should be regulating output depending on load...You can tell if it isn't because you will also be monitoring buss voltage which should always be around 14V...You can set an alarm in the EMS to go off at say 12.5V and 15.5V to let you know when the alternator is acting up..In reality you don't even need to measure amps if you do this.

But anyway assuming you have the shunt installed in the Alternator B lead, the high side will be on the alternator side and the low side will be on the buss side.

You could be measuring negative flow but it will max out at about 4 amps as this is the excitation current...If you want to be sure start adding elctrical load as you run the motor...If you got say 20 amps worth of load (you can temporarilly hang some 12 v devices off the battery to get the 20 amps or so) and the alternator is putting out minus 20A then you know you have the leads reversed as there is no way the alternator can demand this flow.

If the amps stay at -3/4 then the alternator is not charging...What do the battery volts do...it should be about 12V before you start..and rise to 13.7 to 14.5V when running...If that is the case then the alternator is working.

As to the erratic tach reading..Are you using points or electronic ignition?...It sounds like maybe you have a noisy signal coming off the tach connection or maybe the volts you are seeing is over volting the Dynon input.....Talk to Dynon as I bet they have a little smoothing circuit you could build. I know several builders have used the WW with the Dynon so i bet they have experience of this

From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 6:20 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; corvaircraft(at)mylist.net
Subject: Electrical problems

Friends,

I have asked these questions directly to several "gurus" and have gotten no response. Maybe someone on this forum can help me out. Since the forum does not allow enclosures, I have not attached my electrical schematic. Anyone wishing to help, please contact me directly and I will send a pdf of my schematic.

I have just begun running the WW-built Corvair 2700 engine on my nearly completed Zodiac 601XL. At present, according to my Dynon EMS-D10, I have negative 3 or 4 amps output from my alternator. Obviously, I need to find out if that is actually the case, and if it is, why.

1) Do I have the ammeter shunt correctly connected to the EMS? (Amps Low to the battery side of the shunt; Amps High to the main bus side)

2) I have seen at least four different ways to connect the S704-1 Alternator OV Disconnect Relay. Do I have mine correctly configured? (Must see schematic)

And on another subject:

3) I have each tach lead from the EMS connected through an in-line, fast blow, 0.5amp fuse, to the negative terminal of the coil. When the engine is turning 2,000 rpm (according to my hand held optical tach) the EMS tach is very erratic, reading from 1300 to 1800 rpm, running on either coil. Is there something I can do to correct this?

Thanks in advance - Jay Bannister
Quote:


ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution

[quote][b]


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