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rhdudley(at)att.net
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 Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 3:05 pm Post subject: Sealing tank inspection covers |
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FWIW
If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
be of interest to you.
I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
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kboatright1(at)comcast.ne
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 3:43 pm Post subject: Sealing tank inspection covers |
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On a related subject, I had a very bad time today with the button head hex
screws I planned to use to replace the Phillips head screws originally used
on the access covers. After stripping 3 of 'em (not fun extracting them
from inside the wing root), I switched back to the tried and true Phillips
head units and had no further problems.
Hopefully, others have a better experience with the button head hex screws
than I did.
Oh, yeah... If you thought proseal was a mess when you built your tank, it
is even more fun when you work with it in the wing root.
Finally, I *had* properly tightened and prosealed my fuel pick-ups when I
built the tanks 8 or so years ago. There is no way they would have ever
come loose. What this means is that in the last week, I have spent about
$100 bucks (new pick-ups, screws, proseal) and 8+ hours fixing a problem
that didn't exist on my airplane. My peace of mind is worth it, but if I'd
made the *right* construcion photo(s) or documented what I did in writing
(as opposed to fuzzy memories), I could have avoided the issue entirely.
KB
---
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Rick Galati
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 91
Location: Lake St. Louis MO.
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:52 pm Post subject: Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
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Richard,
Your original trouble-free installation of the access covers with cork gaskets using Titeseal and subsequent flying hours since is remarkably similiar in time frame to my experience though my flying hours come in slightly higher at 113TT since June 2005. I will comply with the SB shortly having just received fresh cork gaskets from Van's. Its nice to know the old Titeseal cleans up readily with acetone and I certainly plan to reinstall those access covers with Titeseal again. Four years ago, I simply followed a suggestion offered in an Orndorff construction video by using Titeseal as an alternative to proseal. After reading so many (often colorful) posts of builders who used proseal, for a while there I thought I was the only builder (besides George O.) who successfully used Titeseal to attach those access covers. I'm happy to hear you too have met with leak proof success on the fuel tanks using the same stuff.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
| rhdudley(at)att.net wrote: | FWIW
If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
be of interest to you.
I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
Regards,
Richard Dudley |
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Vanremog(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:41 pm Post subject: Sealing tank inspection covers |
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In a message dated 3/11/2006 3:44:12 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
On a related subject, I had a very bad time today with the button head hex
screws I planned to use to replace the Phillips head screws originally used
on the access covers. After stripping 3 of 'em (not fun extracting them
from inside the wing root), I switched back to the tried and true Phillips
head units and had no further problems.
Hopefully, others have a better experience with the button head hex screws
than I did.
=================================================
Early in my career I learned that button head stainless steel screws of any
size are bad for use in a prevailing torque (locking) thread form, especially
that used in all-metal nutplates and Kaynars. Never mind the fact that
these threads are often over-crimped to produce an excessive locking torque in
their virgin condition, for which I always recommend Never-Seez (sp),
Molybdenum disulfide assembly lube or a similar anti-galling lubricant (Boelube,
Beeswax, etc.).
Because of the low profile head shape, the hex driving recesses in the ANSI
button head series fasteners are one increment smaller and shallower when
compared with the hex driving recesses used in the equivalent sized cap head
screw. This, combined with the soft 300 series stainless, allows their driving
recesses to "cam out" at a much lower torque. I would encourage builders to
stay with cap heads, pan or truss heads and use sealing head screws for the
access plates.
Having said all that, the button heads do look cool for mounting instruments
in your panel and the grass hopper nuts will receive them fine.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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rv8ch
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 250
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 11:24 pm Post subject: Sealing tank inspection covers |
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| Quote: | Your original trouble-free installation of the access covers with
cork gaskets using Titeseal and subsequent flying hours since is
remarkably similiar in time frame to my experience though my flying
hours come in slightly higher at 113TT since June 2005.
|
What did you guys use to seal the screw heads?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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_________________
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/ |
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