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budyerly(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 1:42 pm Post subject: Aileron setup part dux. |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Frans,
You give me the impression that you are using a digital level to set the deflection. Get a protractor that measures inside and outside angles or make cardboard templates for your travel and measure the deflection at the hinge. The bottom of the wing at the hinge should be close to flat. Measure your deflections from that. If you do nothing more than make cardboard templates with 24 degrees up and 22 degree down angles for measurement of the deflection, it should work.
Normally, if your starboard aileron goes down too far the port up stop is not set correctly. Remember the rule, the bell crank stop sets the up limit, and by default, the down throw on the opposite aileron. As you know, the geometry of the flight controls gives more up aileron than down for adverse yaw affects.
With both up stops set at 24 degrees at the hinge, and no slop in the system, the down throw should be very close to 22 degrees. Please measure with a protractor verses the chord line as you may be setting the up stop too far up which yields too much down on the opposite side. If the up is set too high, due to rod length differences and bell crank throw, this makes the left and right throw different due to the angle deflections of the bell cranks (when the aileron up point is approaching 30 degrees (Cosin of .866) you get a noticeable difference in linear rod throw) which means you won't get the same amount of throw on each wing. Only a couple of degrees, but frustrating to say the least.
Just to bloviate, as far as digital levels and aileron measurement goes, there can be 2-3 degrees of error by trying to hold a level and take a measurement from an assumed known datum with the linkage moving under weight of the level. Assumed datums such as a wing tip chord line are suspect because the aileron angle has to be measured on its chord line also, and it is very hard to get a pure wing tip chord line... Especially if you don't make a shim to lay your digital level on to set it to the chord line. This makes the aileron deflection measurement inaccurate. Measure the deflection at the hinge.
To all builders: All rudder and aileron deflections on the Europa are to be measured from the hinge lines. In all my aero books, these deflections are made at the hinge line. Note that the stab hinge point is at the center of the stab. In this case we use the flat of the top of the stab trailing edge and set the digital to zero to measure deflection of the stab. However, the trim tabs on the stab is measured by protractor at the hinge...
When rigging any airplane, step back, sit down and look from about 10 feet behind the tail across the rear of the wings. The shadow of the bottom of the wing surface should be the same on each wing. As you move your head up, the shadow will disappear at the same spot equally on the left and right as your head nears the level of the trailing edge. Using a point such as the flap to aileron joint, which is very close to the mean aerodynamic chord (where the roll trim really counts) as the point where the wing shadows are equal is best. It is like trimming a model airplane. If it looks straight it will fly straight. I have yet to test fly a Europa, RV. Zenith or Kitfox type aircraft that flew bad when I rigged them with this method. Your eyeball will detect as little as .1 degrees between wing incidence using this basic method. Many times I have gone back and corrected my digitally leveled and measured aircraft because my Mark I eyeball said it doesn't look straight. Should the aircraft have a slight roll during flight, I will shim or adjust a flap by a small amount (1/32 inch at a time) to get the roll trim right due to a slight building error. When I checked using the eyeball method, I could usually see the problem and kick myself for not catching it. Of course that will probably all change when I have eye surgery next week. Anyone know a good seeing eye dog or eye patch company just in case?
Happy building
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
(813) 653-4989
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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frans(at)paardnatuurlijk.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject: Aileron setup part dux. |
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[quote:8ecb0f5323="Bud Yerly"]Frans,
You give me the impression that you are using a digital level to set the deflection.
[/quote:8ecb0f5323]
Yes, but I also checked with a protractor. If I use the digital level, I clamp it on the aileron, set the aileron neutral (eyeball method), make a reading of the digital level, and use this as a reference for the maximum up- and down movement. This way, it doesn't matter where I put the digital level, as long as I don't move it between the readings.
BTW I like your "eyeball method". Good idea! I'm going to try it tomorrow.
Frans
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:36 pm Post subject: Aileron setup part dux. |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> I see how you are measuring it now. Mental block, I thought you were measuring from the chord line. I wish I could see it for myself. One peek at the system is worth a thousand words.
Keep us posted.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
(813) 653-4989
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