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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
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 Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject: Antenna routing without effecting pitch trim i |
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Hi Jim
Thx. for the reply.
"You should not use the rudder post antenna unless you have done so. The Europa kit ships with 4 toroids and they may also help. The taill post antenna is really a nice solution."
Sorry, don't understand the difference between a rudder post antenna and a tail post antenna??
My kit A-265 picked up Lakeland 04-2003 did not come with toroids.
Are you saying newer kits are shipped with toroids for copper foil dipole antennas? You think they would be worth while installing with a Bob Archer antenna "real big E shape".
Before I bond top on, I want to test power and SWR of radios and try and tweak location and fix any problems that may pop up like pitch indicator signal wire catching noise from radio transmission or??
Ron P.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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frans(at)paardnatuurlijk.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:03 pm Post subject: Antenna routing without effecting pitch trim i |
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rparigoris wrote:
| Quote: | Before I bond top on, I want to test power and SWR of radios and try and tweak location and fix any problems that may pop up like pitch indicator signal wire catching noise from radio transmission or??
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Well, SWR is dependant on the environment of the antenna. Be prepared to
see some changes after you bond on the top, install a strobe on top of
the fin, install a tail wheel, or even do some painting. The antenna is
most sensitive to changes in the environment of its outer ends. If you
happen to have an SWR meter, make sure to fool around with some metal
parts near the antenna, to see what the influence is. Use gloves for it,
as RF might actually bite you quite a bit. If you want to be cool, hold
a transfluorent tube (spelling?) near the antenna and watch how it
starts glowing as if it is connected to the mains. A LED with some wire
attached to its pins is also neat.
Anyway, the moral is: Best leave the SWR-tuning till the bare end. That
is, leave the antenna a bit too long (best SWR match on the lower part
of the frequency range) and do the final tuning when the airplane is
ready (including the paint). It is easier to clip something of the
antenna than to have to enlarge it.
Oh, and before I forget, try to lead the coax away from the antenna in a
90 degree angle for as long as possible. The shield of the coax will
pick up the radiated signal if it is parallel to the antenna, and
radiate it further down again, and this is what you want to avoid.
Best regards,
Frans Veldman
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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:47 pm Post subject: Antenna routing without effecting pitch trim i |
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Hi Frans
Thx. for the reply.
Good information!
I was going to cleco top on and install as much metal stuff and wiring as
I could.
Can a Bob Archer "big E shaped" flat aluminium sheet antenna be tuned for
best SWR? If yes how can you tune it?
I also have a AAE antenna that will be installed just aft of the baggage
bay bulkhead. I think it is a dipole antenna??? that is encapsulated with
fiberglass and is flexible. I plan to install it bent in half, half
vertical and half horizontal so it works equally bad for nav and comm on
my panel mounted Vertex hand-held. According to vertex and AAE it should
work about 70% on both Nav and Comm compared to having 100% in proper
direction for each.
According to AAE it needs no tuning??
Won't have paint on fuse though. One thing is with Bob Archer can't
install with exact E shape, so will fool with different angles and see if
can optimize SWR and have it fit in rudder.
With AAE, will try 90 degree bend and location to see if repositioning can
improve SWR.
How would one tune AAE antenna?
Ron P.
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 5:26 pm Post subject: Antenna routing without effecting pitch trim i |
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Rudder Post, Tail Post, same thing. As I remember (and it may be incorrect) I puchased the antenna kit separately from Europa. It is really much more simple than you would think. You can get the 3M copper tape very cheaply, RG-58U is cheap, and that is all you need. I will use the toroids only because they are recommended but I have built probably 50 VHF antennas over the years and have never used a toroid. You can buy them very economically from someone like RST or Palomar electronics. Palomar is at 760-747-3343 and toroids are one of their specialties. Call them and explain what you are doing and they will send what you need. You don't want to install the antennas (excep transponder) before you have the top on. Vertical dipoles are the simplest, cheapest, and most efficient way to go. You can't install the one in the rudder post until you have the top on and the post trial fitted. In my case, on Bob Berube's recommendation, I installed the transponder antenna (a vertical dipole) well aft on a piece of balsa wood floxed to the lower half of the canoe prior to putting the top on. You should install all of the coax for the antenna and wire for the trim motor before the top goes on. We used some little 1 inch square plastic fasterner, my wife thinks we got them at Radio Shack. They have self-adhesive on the bottom, which you remove, and then scuff sand and flox them to th fuselage floor. You can pass a tie wrap through them, which you use to secure the cable or wiring. BY ALL MEANS have the wires and coax in before you put the top on, but the antennas, with the exception of the transponder, should wait until the top is on. You want to have as much as you can done, because everything can influence SWR. The advice you got on cutting them is dead on. You want them a little long. Go ahead and epoxy them in; even the epoxy can have some effect, but leave at least 6 inches free on each end. THEN it is time to tune them by snipping off a little at time.
Your best bet is to talk to someone who is an experienced amateur. The aircraft band is relatively close to the 2 meter amateur band, so anyone who is on top of 2 meter amateur antennas should be able to help you.
Jim Puglise - A-283
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