MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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 Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 2:11 pm Post subject: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin |
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Thanks Bob! That is exactly the problem I have and the solution I'll apply.
It is an Eclipse (should have said that before). The barrel dimension
is .302" rather than .260".
This is has been a valuable exercise for this builder because I come
away with a better understanding of the process and the tools. And a
better understanding of how, as a homebuilder, I can learn and adapt
processes and tools to the building and maintaining of my custom craft.
I guess I'm just saying I grew a bit here.
Thanks to all of you that helped on and off the list. Good stuff.
Bill Watson
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 11:33 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> I think I have several problems and oversights that need to be
> addressed.
>
> I'm using a tool that looks like this:
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type of
> pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably 22 AWG which
> would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this case, I
> was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness pig
> tail.
>
> In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough to barely
> clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper seems to
> crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the pin, allowing any of
> the insulation into the pin could further compromise the crimp. (I'm
> attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
> I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is setup for and
> limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using the right pins
> (non-high density).
>
> For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires, I'm going
> to follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder terminals
> along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink tubing.
> It's a good solution for this particular connection.
>
> I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable Daniels crimper if
> I want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to justify.
>
> What do you think?
Thanks for the great pictures. I've added those to my
reference library. It seems that Eclipse is back to their
old habits.
When I started stocking that tool many moons ago, I
discovered that the pin-positioner was cut wrong
allowing the pin to set too deep in the tool. This
causes the crimp to happen too far back on the wire
grip as shown here . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_0.jpg
I used to check every tool and modify as shown
here . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_1.jpg
I put every positioner in the lathe and cut it back
on the pin-entry end to achieve the dimension shown.
This moved the pin up in the too such that the
wire-grip was just flush to slightly under-flush
with the face of the tool.
B&C checked the tools too after I turned that
activity over to them. Tim reported to me some
months later that the pin-positioners were coming
in okay. I figured that it was the result of a
letter I wrote to Eclipse citing the problem.
The other part of your problem is putting 24AWG wires
into a 20/22 AWG pin. The tool is designed to have a slightly
over-crimp on 20AWG and slightly under-crimp on 22AWG.
This means it's way under-crimped for 24AWG. You fix this
by striping 24AWG wire 2X length for exposed strands and
fold the strands back to double the amount of copper
in the finished joint.
Alternatively, your idea of a fixed "plug" in the
bottom of the pin-positioner works too but you
have to be VERY careful about too much plug . . .
it can be hard to get out. You can use a small
twist drill to clear the hole.
Bob . . .
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