MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
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 Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:52 pm Post subject: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin C |
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I think you are right about it being too far to the end. I spoke to a
'pro' who uses the same tool and he suggested inserting a small
cellulose plug (i.e. stuff a wad of paper) in the hole of the tool. At
least, that's what he does.
Now I believe there are 2 ways of looking at it - 1) insert the pin and
manually insure that the pin is more or less flush with the face of the
tool or 2) stuff something in the hole so that the pin, when fully
inserted, will remain flush with the tool face. I'm doing both - I
stuffed a 1/16" piece of toothpick in the hole and I'm visually checking
the how far the pin is inserted. Stripping enough insulation so that
some conductor is exposed seems like a good practice too.
None of that is acceptable in a production environment. But this
homebuilder thinks he can handle it since a better tool costs $400.
Thanks.
Werner Schneider wrote:
| Quote: |
<glastar(at)gmx.net>
That crimp seems to be to far to the end for me, mine are in the
centre of the rear cylindrical part, so I'm afraid it's not properly
adjusted.
AWG 24 will be to small for this pins (however you might be able when
doubling the wires to get a good grip, just the number of strands are
marginal if no strain relief on a d-sub case housing is done)
br Werner
MauleDriver wrote:
> I think I have several problems and oversights that need to be
> addressed.
>
> I'm using a tool that looks like this:
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type of
> pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably 22 AWG which
> would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this case, I
> was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness pig
> tail.
>
> In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough to barely
> clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper seems to
> crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the pin, allowing any of
> the insulation into the pin could further compromise the crimp. (I'm
> attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
> I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is setup for and
> limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using the right pins
> (non-high density).
>
> For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires, I'm going
> to follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder terminals
> along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink tubing.
> It's a good solution for this particular connection.
>
> I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable Daniels crimper if
> I want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to justify.
>
> What do you think?
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>> <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>>>
>>> <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of my crimped D-sub
>>> pins and socket. I've been giving each connection a tug after
>>> crimping and I just had one come off. Upon examination, I can't
>>> see the difference between that connection and others I recently made.
>>>
>>> So the question is, what is the proper technique for crimping on
>>> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper? I've searched
>>> Bob's site and the Web in general and can't find any how-to
>>> information. None came with the tool I obtained from Stein.
>>>
>>> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How far should the
>>> wire be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the pin or
>>> should it be in the pin)?
>>
>> Insulation can touch the pin but the wires need to be
>> inserted a minimum depth as observed through the inspection
>> hole. My installations have a pretty good gap between
>> end of pin and insulation when the strands are fully
>> inserted on the pin.
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>> If your tool looks like this:
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
>>
>> There are no adjustments to be made. The tool is set up for
>> D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg
>>
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg
>>
>>
>> and should produce a finished joint like the first
>> picture above.
>>
>> If your tool looks like this:
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_1.jpg
>>
>>
>> then there are adjustments to be made in addition to selecting
>> the right pin positioner. The tool should have come with
>> instructions.
>>
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_2.JPG
>>
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_3.JPG
>>
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater_Cross_Reference.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Should I solder?
>>
>> No . . .
>>
>>
>>> Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use solder-on D-subs?
>>
>> Millions of these pins are installed every day world wide and
>> deliver as advertised. You need to figure out what's going
>> on with your materials, tools, techniques . . .
>>
>>> Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins instead?
>>
>> No, these are more problematic for the neophyte builder than
>> machined pins. I don't even keep them in the shop. We've
>> been 100% machined pins for 20+ years.
>>
>>> Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests that
>>> may be an option).
>>
>> No, that's an inspection hole. If the wires are sufficiently
>> inserted you can see the strands through the hole.
>>
>>
>>> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
>>
>> What tool do you have? What pins are you trying to install and
>> what connector is the target residence for the pins? Are you
>> trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins with the 20AWG
>> standard density) tool?
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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