ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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 Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:08 pm Post subject: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin Crimp |
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Having worked with both solder and crimp for around 30 years, I'd have
to say that the solder comment is...terrorism?? 
I've seen solder joints fail when they weren't done properly, and I've
seen crimps fail when they weren't done properly.
I've seen wires break where the 'wicked' (one syllable) solder stopped
in the wire, and I've seen wires break at the end of a crimped
connector. Either will break if not properly supported outside the joint.
Until the recent availability of inexpensive d-sub crimpers, you had to
just be a tool collector to buy a crimper for the few hundred
connections in one airplane when solder works just as well and the
amortized cost of the crimper alone was roughly $1 per crimp. The solder
cup type connectors are still a lot cheaper than the machined removable
pins; they are just less convenient to wire for a novice.
I actually have more faith in solder, but admit that it's largely
personal preference.
Charlie
rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote:
| Quote: |
Bill,
Marc has posted a good document on his website concerning connectors. http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html
I've picked up the Daniels crimper of Ebay, so I can't offer any advice on the 4way ident crimper.
I would recommend not using solder. I think that is just putting a ticking time bomb into your panel.
bob
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Date: 2008/12/10 Wed AM 09:04:18 EST
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper
>
>
>
> I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of my crimped D-sub pins
> and socket. I've been giving each connection a tug after crimping and I
> just had one come off. Upon examination, I can't see the difference
> between that connection and others I recently made.
>
> So the question is, what is the proper technique for crimping on
> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper? I've searched
> Bob's site and the Web in general and can't find any how-to
> information. None came with the tool I obtained from Stein.
>
> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How far should the wire
> be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the pin or should it be
> in the pin)?
>
> Should I solder? Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use solder-on
> D-subs? Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins instead? Crimp and
> solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests that may be an option).
>
> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
>
> Bill "building an RV10 panel" Watson
>
>
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