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Question for the Machinists

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PatrickW

Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:13 pm Post subject: Question for the Machinists

Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...?



It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring attaches.  The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key.



I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much less a 4130 steel rod.



Thanks,



- Patrick

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psm(at)att.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:40 pm Post subject: Question for the Machinists

Hi Patrick,



I drilled those holes with my battery powered hand drill and 

high-speed steel drill bit.  It takes a while because of the slow 

RPM, but it works well.  The only problem to worry about is bending 

the bit and causing it to break in the hole.  If it does you can have 

a difficult problem removing the broken drill bit point.



Good luck,



Paul

XL getting close

At 08:13 PM 2/23/2009, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole 

straight through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that 

steel rod...?



It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where 

the gas spring attaches.  The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key.



I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the 

past, much less a 4130 steel rod.



Thanks,



- Patrick

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jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 5:33 am Post subject: Question for the Machinists

Patrick,

 

 I am not a machinist, but I completed a 601XL.  Drilling that cotter pin hole is an intimidating task, but it is, in reality, not that difficult. Two critical items: 1) Center punch before drilling and 2) make sure your drill bit is sharp.  I have bought brand new dull bits.  Try drilling and if it doesn't go the way it should, ash can that bit and get another one. If your bit is sharp, drilling steel is just not a problem.  I used a right angle attachment for my drill, with a threaded, short bit.  I also used a slightly larger bit to bevel the end of the hole to make it easier to insert that tiny cotter pin.  

 

 You can do it.  Get with it !

 

 Jay Bannister   

 

   

 

   

 

 --

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Gig Giacona

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:28 am Post subject: Re: Question for the Machinists

I'm the furthest from a machinist on the list but here is how I did it.



Center punch the hole.



Use a new drill bit.



Use an electric drill and take your time. You don't get extra points for doing it quick.



I'm pretty sure I added a few drops of oil when I did it as well.

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601XL Under Construction
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psm(at)att.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:39 am Post subject: Question for the Machinists

One further thought on the cotter pin holes.  You really don't have 

to drill them 1/16".  3/32" works just as well and is a lot easier to drill.



Paul

XL getting close

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Brady

Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 182
Location: Poulsbo, WA

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:01 am Post subject: Re: Question for the Machinists

Gentlemen,

The standard procedure for drilling any hole would start with a center punch.

Any hole drilled in a piece of irregular shape would be done in the drill press and should be held in a vise.

The condition of you drill bit will determine your success (or lack there of).

The bit must be sharp and each fluke must be of equal length or the drill bit will walk off center.

A new bit of decent quality will ensure a fairly straight hole.

Cutting fluid will help to keep your bit cool and sharper longer.

Any HSS drill bit less than 1/2" should be spun at least 500 rpm for mild steel. (4130 will work at that speed also).

Don't push too hard on small bits or they get shorter faster 



One Cool trick is to file a small flat on the start side of the rod and if you connect the corners of the flat you will be very close to the center of the rod.



Another way would be to make a drilling fixture:

I will often drill out the threads of a nut of the appropriate size with a smaller drill and ream it to size for a snug fit.

Then drill the nut in a drill press from flat to flat and now you have a drill guide.  Also if you use the end of the nut as a constant depth to insert your rod, the holes will be a uniform distance from the end.

this looks professional 



Just a couple of tricks I have used.

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Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com

AZFlyer

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 89
Location: Prescott, AZ

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Question for the Machinists

Patrick,



Slow drill in drillpress, light pressure...cutting oil... drills like going thur butter... center punch or center drill helps start...

Mike

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601 XL-B, 3300, Dynon

Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!

PatrickW

Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 5:52 pm Post subject: Re: Question for the Machinists

Hey All - thanks to your advice and tips, I was able to successfully drill those holes.



I went to the hardware store and bought new 5/64" drill bits.  There were "high speed steel" ones for something like 79 cents apiece, and "cobalt steel" ones for around $2.50 apiece.  I bought two of each.  



I filed a flat spot on the top curvature of the rod, then measured and marked the spot where I wanted to drill.  I used a spring loaded center punch to mark the spot.



I chucked the "cobalt" drill bits into my drill press so that only about 1/3 of an inch stuck out, and I tightened the drive belt of the drill press.  This decreased the "wobble" which I think would otherwise lead to flexing of the bits and then breaking them off (I gotta find a good non-Chinese made drill press).



Then I clamped the pieces tightly onto my drill press and set it up so the bit was just a hair above the workpiece.  I had some "light cutting oil" that I put onto the drill bit by poking an old rivet stem into the oil and then dabbing it onto the drill bit every so often.



I then drilled down into the workpiece just a little bit, then I backed off and stopped and wiped the shavings off.  I added more cutting oil and drilled a little bit deeper.  I repeated this 5 or 6 times until the drill bit came out the other side.



Both workpieces came out just perfect.   



Thanks!



- Patrick

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leinad

Joined: 19 Sep 2006
Posts: 283
Location: Central Virginia

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:51 pm Post subject: Re: Question for the Machinists

On small round hard surfaces I like to put a little flat or dip on the center with a grinder before drilling.   I usually find a center punch inadequate.  I really love these little holes, because it's the only time when my crumby sears drill press is ever really turning slow enough.  A drill press made for home hobbyists is meant for cutting wood, not steel.  A drop of oil or cutting fluid is a good idea on steel.

Dan



 	  PatrickW wrote: 	
		  Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...?



It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring attaches.  The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key.



I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much less a 4130 steel rod.



Thanks,



- Patrick

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