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First engine start

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glcasey(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 4:42 am Post subject: First engine start

I'm about to start my IO-540 for the first time after a rebuild (and  

a couple hours of dyno time) by Ly-Con,  followed by almost 6 months  

of storage.  The Lycoming recommendation is to fill the oil cooler  

with oil, pull the plugs out and then crank the engine until it gets  

pressure and then start the engine.  Sounds reasonable to me.  Any  

other suggestions?  I don't have the hardware required to pressurize  

the system.



Gary Casey

archie97(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:24 am Post subject: First engine start

Be sure to fill the oil filter with oil. (or as much as practicable).

It takes quite a few RPM before the system is fully pressurized,

and not until the filter has filled.



Watch the cyl temps if you are using factory type rings.

Not really an issue if you have converted to automotive.

Archie



---

paxhia2(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:41 pm Post subject: First engine start

I have a LyCon IO 540 EXP, I pulled the plugs and ran the starter for a 

couple of minutes  to oil the engine.  Then started and ran minimal ground 

time. The first 20 minutes full rpm (2700) and 24-25" MP and then 75% power 

for the first hour. The 10 next hours or so never under 70% but short 

periods of full power. Over 550 hours now, the engine runs great and uses a 

qt of oil every 7-8 hours or so.

Al Paxhia

 ---

glcasey(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:48 am Post subject: First engine start

That makes sense, Archie, but the filter on this engine is horizontal - how does one get it full of oil?  The only way I can think of is to take it off, fill it and then hope that stays in by the time I get it tightened.Gary



 	  Quote: 	
		  

From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net (archie97(at)earthlink.net)> 

Subject: First engine start 



 

--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net (archie97(at)earthlink.net)> 



 

Be sure to fill the oil filter with oil. (or as much as practicable). 

It takes quite a few RPM before the system is fully pressurized, 

and not until the filter has filled. 



 

Watch the cyl temps if you are using factory type rings. 

Not really an issue if you have converted to automotive. 

Archie

archie97(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 6:19 am Post subject: First engine start

I understand those can be "messy", but

 as long as the element is saturated, there  is

 that much of an advance in  filling/priming.

 Archie

 [quote]   ---

Charles Heathco

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 201

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:12 am Post subject: First engine start

Casy, just put it on, fillthe sump with 7 qt  W100 and start it up like all the rest of us do  Charlie  Heathco

 [quote]   ---

klwerner(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:36 am Post subject: First engine start

Would chilling the (oil filled)  filter in a freezer for a while slow down the ooze out of the oil?   Anyone ever tried  this?

  

 do not archive

 [quote]   ---

esmith6(at)satx.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:28 am Post subject: First engine start

Gary..............This is what most folks do:   Spray a little oil in each cylinder through the spark plug holes with each  piston at BDC, saturate the filter with oil, and start the rascal...NPS (Not a  Perfect Science)...Perfection is wonderful, but not always possible...Some  things we have to accept...Those few seconds without oil pressure shouldn't  cause much wear...I don't think chilled oil is going to help the initial flow,  but retard it...I have done this procedure, and friends have also, but if  someone has a better way, then I do not advocate this at  all................................CHEERS!!!!..................................Gene  Smith.

  

 Do not archive

  

 [quote]   ---

jofrap1(at)JUNO.COM
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:58 am Post subject: First engine start

If, as someone has stated before, you remove the top plugs and squirt in a little oil to lube the pistons then run the engine on the starter for a few minutes until the oil pressure comes up then you have oil in the filter and pretty much all inportant places and you should be ready to start the engine without damage.  Now that I think about it, isn't the oil filter bypassed when the oil is cold, or is it the other way around. 

Joe

mcculleyja(at)starpower.n
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 2:21 pm Post subject: First engine start

Gary,



I used a pressure pot(as sometimes used with a pressure paint gun 

system)and put about 6 to 8 quarts of engine oil in the container, 

pressurized the pot to 50-70 psi of air (with the pot outlet closed), 

disconnected the hose at the INLET fitting of the oil cooler and 

connected the pot output to the end of that hose. Then I slowly and 

partially opened the pot output valve to flow oil through the hose, open 

vernatherm valve, oil filter, and simultaneously backwards through the 

other oil cooler hose to purge air from the cooler and fill the cooler 

with oil.  When the oil cooler has filled and just starts to flow from 

the fitting that the hose was removed from, quickly turn off the pot 

flow and cap the cooler fitting. Then open the pot flow again and let 

the pressure pot continue to feed at the 50 to 70 psi system pressure 

until almost empty. This will flow oil through the oil filter,and the 

oil galleys to all the bearings, thus flushing the system, and 

collecting in  the engine sump via leakage from the bearings, same as 

when running. This will also pressurize the tappets and rocker arms via 

the push rods, as well as provide oil spray to the cam shaft lobes and 

other parts.



Be careful to shut off the flow from the pot before it empties and 

starts to flow pressurized air into the engine. Reconnecting the removed 

oil cooler hose can be done easily if you prepare ahead of time so that 

the surrounding area is protected by a few rags. There will be no system 

pressure--only some gravity flow depending on the oil cooler location. 

With only one dry run to prepare for this reconnect task I found it can 

be done consistently with less than a small spoonful of loss during the 

reconnect.



If you do this procedure just minutes before you plan the first startup 

you will find oil pressure comes up even while still turning with the 

starter before the engine fires.  This can assure having no momentary 

dry bearing surfaces and  more importantly, it should assure well coated 

cam lobes and no dry, collapsed tappets.



I also used this procedure during the first few oil changes to 

completely flush the entire system and better assure finding any 

particles or contamination from the early break-in wearing process.



Jim McCulley

mcculleyja(at)starpower.net

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Gene Smith wrote:

[quote] Gary..............This is what most folks do:  Spray a little oil in 

 each cylinder through the spark plug holes with each piston at BDC, 

 saturate the filter with oil, and start the rascal...NPS (Not a Perfect 

 Science)...Perfection is wonderful, but not always possible...Some 

 things we have to accept...Those few seconds without oil pressure 

 shouldn't cause much wear...I don't think chilled oil is going to help 

 the initial flow, but retard it...I have done this procedure, and 

 friends have also, but if someone has a better way, then I do not 

 advocate this at 

 all................................CHEERS!!!!...................................Gene 

 Smith.

  

 Do not archive

  

 

     ---

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