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External Power Receptacle in a 10

 
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johngoodman



Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:08 pm    Post subject: External Power Receptacle in a 10 Reply with quote

Well, it took a loooonnngg time, but I finally designed, built, and installed an External Power Receptacle in my RV-10 project. I'm sure somebody will see flaws in it, but it doesn't budge a hair!
Basically, it's on the belly with a flap door. Piano hinge at the leading edge and a Camloc at the closing end. A doubler attached to the skin with a hole "just smaller" than the opening in the receptacle. 3/4" square tube is used as spacers for another sheet of metal identical to the first, except the hole is cut so the receptacle can pass through. The AN3-21A bolts basically hold it down hard on the skin and prevent side motion. The 1/8" 3003 bracket I had made by a local metal shop - $45. It is bent "just right" to match the angle of the bolt holes (7º - the floor and the battery box aren't parallel). It's purpose is to lock it in, and tie it to the battery box so it can't be pushed up (or down). The bump out is for the B&C contactor.
The wiring will be according to The Aeroelectric Connection, with a few minor mods suggested by the folks at Vertical Power. The VP200 can sense it powered. The bottom door hinge is a little tricky, trying to keep it hidden, but it can be done. Caution, no more than 5 links - the pin will not clear the J-channel for removal otherwise.
I'm only posting this because I searched high and low for hints and found them few and far between. Hopefully, more suggestions will be added. Photos attached.
John


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#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:46 pm    Post subject: External Power Receptacle in a 10 Reply with quote

Put mine in the lower left corner of the aft bulkhead just inside the
baggage door. Easy and out of the way. No doors, no weather/seal problems,
no sweat installation, no bending over to plug in.
Chuck
RV10 in the paint shop
RV9A 360 hours of pure joy

--------------------------------------------------
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 6:08 PM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: External Power Receptacle in a 10

Quote:


Well, it took a loooonnngg time, but I finally designed, built, and
installed an External Power Receptacle in my RV-10 project. I'm sure
somebody will see flaws in it, but it doesn't budge a hair!
Basically, it's on the belly with a flap door. Piano hinge at the leading
edge and a Camloc at the closing end. A doubler attached to the skin with
a hole "just smaller" than the opening in the receptacle. 3/4" square tube
is used as spacers for another sheet of metal identical to the first,
except the hole is cut so the receptacle can pass through. The AN3-21A
bolts basically hold it down hard on the skin and prevent side motion. The
1/8" 3003 bracket I had made by a local metal shop - $45. It is bent "just
right" to match the angle of the bolt holes (7º - the floor and the
battery box aren't parallel). It's purpose is to lock it in, and tie it to
the battery box so it can't be pushed up (or down). The bump out is for
the B&C contactor.
The wiring will be according to The Aeroelectric Connection, with a few
minor mods suggested by the folks at Vertical Power. The VP200 can sense
it powered. The bottom door hinge is a little tricky, trying to keep it
hidden, but it can be done. Caution, no more than 5 links - the pin will
not clear the J-channel for removal otherwise.
I'm only posting this because I searched high and low for hints and found
them few and far between. Hopefully, more suggestions will be added.
Photos attached.
John

--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved


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