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aviateer
Joined: 08 Aug 2008
Posts: 23
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 Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:49 am Post subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/04/09 |
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Dave,
I wrestled with the same indecision. Then I purchased the 1/4" and
enjoy piece of mind with it.
Just my two cents.
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV (yes it is a Speedster)
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2009, at 1:59 AM, Kitfox-List Digest Server <kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> wrote:
| Quote: | *
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete Kitfox-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version
of the Kitfox-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-09-04&Archive=Kitfox
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-09-04&Archive=Kitfox
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Kitfox-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 09/04/09: 3
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:27 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane
solution (Jeffrey Dill)
2. 01:16 PM - Re: Stabilzer struts upgrade? (Mike Chaney)
3. 06:19 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane
solution (akflyer)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 05:27:39 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane
solution
From: "Jeffrey Dill" <1dillfamily(at)comcast.net>
Sorry, am replying to messages from last spring which escaped my
attention. Guy
asked for a picture of my tailwheel setup and I have tried to attach
one taken
yesterday. I attached a tie-wrap from chain to spring on the right
side to show
the amount of stretch that is required to hook it up. The J-3 I flew
for my
709 (ride with the FAA) had a significant amount of slack from
rudder horn to
tailwheel, I think I sent a picture of that last winter. The stark
difference
is what prompted me to take a closer look. I bought some chain to
loosen, but
adding a link to each side produces such slack as to risk, or
practically assure,
spring detachment. I placed an order for compression springs from
Spruce,
which will hopefully eliminate that possibility. Now, having
belatedly read
your notes, I might go back to the tension I had and consider the
sizable domain
of reasons for the sudden darting I was experiencing.
*I have read to keep tire pressure at 9 PSI, I was running about 15
due to problems
keeping the bead sealed. Why so soft?
*The training subsequent to my wreck revealed a significant negative
transfer from
30 years of nosewheel flying. I was moving the stick forward
immediately after
touchdown, and believe me, it was unconscious, but never never never
did
it cause me to dart or change direction at all in the J-3,
Supercruiser, or converted
172. Those all went where I asked them to.
* I was holding the airplane off the ground until such slow speed as
to be unable
to meter the descent for soft touchdown. On the occasions where I
got close
to the proverbial "landing in a stall", I touched tailwheel first
and forced
the mains into dropping from their location, still maybe a foot from
the ground.
Add a little bit of bank to that situation and you can see how I
might get
thrown to the opposite bank in the ensuing bounce, now with less
than stall airpseed.
Having scarcely any control authority, I would have to ride it out at
the mercy of what seemed random physics. I did this in the J-3 as
well, until
I realized that touching down at stall is B.S... go for the soft
touch while you
can, and then plant the tailwheel ASAP, in that order.
* Since I had obtained the airplane used and never actually measured
the main gear
tow, I don't know if that was a factor. Now both main gear are new
from a
model 4. I lined them up as carefully as I could. I was seeking a
degree of tow
out, but wound up with less than that because of tooling limitations.
*I was taught to stay off of the brakes. I think that, with a little
practice on
a day that things were going well, I could have learned to use them
in a pinch
without making things worse. As it was, the only trick in my bag was
the go-around,
and when you are heading for the grass, that runway is short even for
a Kitfox.
I have not flown my model 2 since I wrecked it, but it is close to
ready and I
would like to before winter. Naturally I am apprehensive about it.
Every pilot
I flew with in remedial training told me to get rid of the Kitfox;
most said
to get a certified airplane. So, I bought a second Kitfox and will
build the Classic
4 in due time. I figure that if you guys can do it, so can I. I have
flown
my share of challenging aircraft and, like the rest, it is just a
matter of
understanding the unique concerns and strategies to deal with them.
I will say
reservedly that I have found no eagerness among tailwheel CFIs to
actually
get into my airplane to help me figure this out. So, it will be baby
steps with
wide runways or grass strips and light winds.
--------
Jeff Dill
Model 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 61385#261385
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/
767jd_tailwheel_spring_setup_132.jpg
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 01:16:21 PM PST US
From: Mike Chaney <poasttown(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilzer struts upgrade?
Dave
-
I flew for a number of years with the older ones without any
problems but I
think the company suggested the upgrade.- I finally decided that the
3/1
6ths looked pretty small and upgraded.-The newer struts are beefier
and I
feel a bit better.-
-
Mike Chaney
--- On Thu, 9/3/09, Dave G <occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
From: Dave G <occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Stabilzer struts upgrade?
HI, I am in the final steps of repairing my model IV. I notice that
my ssta
b struts, supplied with a skystar/denny crossover kit from '91 have
the sma
ller 3/16 attachements. Is this an issue worth attention, should I
upgrade
to the 1/4" ones?
-
Dave Goddard
KF IV 1050 / 582 / Warp
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 06:19:06 PM PST US
Subject: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane
solution
From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000(at)yahoo.com>
On a tail wheel, you have to be ready on the brakes. If she starts
to get away
from you, at that critical transition from having enough air over
the rudder
to make it effective, and the tail wheel still inches off the
ground, (or in your
case light due to the down elevator) your only option is to get on
the brakes!
I was running tight chains on mine with compression springs, but
with the
chains tight, I could not get the tail wheel to unlock and swivel
for tight
turns into parking. I had to loosen them up and it made it a little
more forgiving
on the landings.
Landings, I always practice and perform full stall tail wheel first
on the numbers
(or before depending on the runway I am on). I fly into and out of
some very
short strips and what we will do in a pinch, is what we practice as
the norm.
Some one way strips I go into leave NO room for error. you miss
judge one
foot of altitude and your eating trees at the end or river bank at
the beginning.
On landing, the elevator controls airspeed, the power controls
decent rate
PERIOD. If you want to drag it in slow, keep the power on and ride
both elevator
and power to keep speed and altitude under control. If you are
falling
out of the sky and bouncing hard, it is because you are flaring to
high and
hold it off at to high an altitude.
The J3, PA 12 etc. that you flew were easier on you because of the
longer moment
on the tail. There is no real foot work required to keep a 12 or J3
or 18 heading
down the runway unless you have a nasty crosswind, but believe me,
if any
of the above start swinging on you, the ONLY way you will get them
back is
with good brakes. Been there, done that and have the Tee shirt (and
scuffed wing
tips).
Without using brakes, how do you land short? I can consistently
drag mine in and
be stopped and turned around in under 75'. The second the mains are
on the
ground I am STANDING on the mushy stock Matco brakes. I am going to
do the pedal
mods for better braking when I take mine off floats and go back to
wheels
so I can lock them up at touch down if need be.
Just my .02... and that wont get you a starbucks even if you kick in
another $3.00
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
hander outer of humorless darwin awards
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 61513#261513
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av8r2488(at)yahoo.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:06 am Post subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/04/09 |
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Hello fellow builders and flyers......I was reading Jeffs message regarding tail wheel landings and would like to offer my two cents here. I have been flying taildraggers for 28 years now and have found this explaination to work best when offering landing help to those having trouble with landings.....when on final flare just before touchdown in a nose wheel aircraft the proper attitude is three point plus a few degrees, the main gear touch and then the nosewheel....as the nosewheel touches the ground the angle of attack is decreased and lift is diminished and most people relax the stick....works. Now on to the taildraggers....same deal. three point attitude plus a few degrees.....except now we are talking more angle of attack....remember three point attitude plus a few degrees here....so what is going to touch down first? The tailwheel....now we are not talking carrier landings here...but tailwheel first and then the mains. Same rules apply...as the
mains touch the angle of attack is decreased and lift diminishes and you pull the stick to your lap....with practice all three wheels will touch down at the same time ...but that comes with pratice....tailwheel slightly first is what I would call perfect! this will give you good control authority and with the proper tailwheel setup you will have effective directional control. I know your going to need to be able to tap a brake in order to keep it straight at first but I can say I have to remember to use the brakes just to keep the rust polished off the rotors....this works for me. BTW I am building a kitfox 5 outback and just getting started...I will be needing advice so the group can get even with me for these two cents....GARY
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