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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:23 pm Post subject: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
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At 11:26 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote:
Quote: | Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub connectors that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d-sub 9 pin solder cup connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local electronics supplier:
http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG
Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain brand and supplier? |
Solder cup and b-crimp connectors come in a huge
variety of qualities. This is why I like to use
the machined d-sub pins . . . ALWAYS good electrical
connection. They also pretty much fit the whole
range of removable pin d-subs.
Quote: | Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering using these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make disconnection easy if I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would any of you recommend another way to hook the servo up? |
The d-sub with machined pins is my preferred connector.
20AWG wire in any one pin is good for 7A or so. I like
to keep it below 5A for a few wires, and 3A average for
a connector full of wires.
It's almost a certainty that the machined pin d-sub will
work just fine for the application you proposed.
Bob . . .
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( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
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[quote][b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:09 am Post subject: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
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At 06:54 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
Quote: | I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub
shells. They fall apart quite easily.
But, why should that be surprising?
Sam
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The ones with removable crimp pins?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:11 am Post subject: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
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At 08:31 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
Quote: | Yes, but it doesn't involve the connector or pins. Almost every RS
plastic metalized hood has fallen apart. It cracks at the screw bosses.
Sam
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Aha! I guess I've never used those. Good data point.
We get nearly all of our plastic hoods from Marlin
P Jones . . .
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number 859+PL
The metalization of plastic hoods serves no useful
purpose. If there is compelling need to encase the
connector-to-connector wire bundles in a metallic
enclosure, then processes MUCH more complex than
adding a metallic coating to the connector shells
is indicated!
Bob . . .
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jason(at)jasonbeaver.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:11 am Post subject: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
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On Sep 15, 2009, at 10:21 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: | At 11:26 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote:
Quote: | Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub connectors that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d-sub 9 pin solder cup connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local electronics supplier:
http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG
Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain brand and supplier? |
Solder cup and b-crimp connectors come in a huge
variety of qualities. This is why I like to use
the machined d-sub pins . . . ALWAYS good electrical
connection. They also pretty much fit the whole
range of removable pin d-subs.
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I've only seen the machined d-sub�pins with crimp connectors (like on the B&C website). I'm fine using those, but several articles on your site show d-sub connectors with solder cups. I assume those can be found with machined pins, but B&C doesn't carry them. Do you know where I can get these?
Quote: | Quote: | Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering using these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make disconnection easy if I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would any of you recommend another way to hook the servo up? |
The d-sub with machined pins is my preferred connector.
20AWG wire in any one pin is good for 7A or so. I like
to keep it below 5A for a few wires, and 3A average for
a connector full of wires.
It's almost a certainty that the machined pin d-sub will
work just fine for the application you proposed.
|
Thanks for your�help!
jason
Quote: |
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( � � � )
( � -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
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