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Wing Skins

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mlfrancke(at)charter.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:03 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Anyone?



This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings and cleco top skin on the inside.

Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from

the inside on the top skin.



Thanks

Mel Francke CH601XL working on wings



Do not archive

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving 

safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in

sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly

used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"

gboothe(at)calply.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:15 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Mel,



As I recall, ZAC recommends doing the bottom first. I believe their exact

phraseology was to the effect that you want your best work on top (where

it's seen). At any rate, install clecoes on the outside of all skins. That

means you have to be careful if you intend to lay the wing down on installed

clecoes. Be sure to Einstein a method of having something to support the

wing between the clecoes.



Gary A. Boothe

Cool, Ca

601HDSTD, WW Conversion

Tail Complete, Working on wings



--

Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:25 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Mel,  I thought that was a bad idea also.  I left the clecoes outside the top 

skin and just used more steel tubes under the spar and rear channel to get 

the proper angle on the spar and make sure the clecoes were clear of the table.  

This is pretty fresh, since I did just that today!  I am working on the left 

wing with the right one complete and in storage.  



Another trick I developed to align the nose ribs.  Once the spar edge of the 

nose skin has been clecoed, I slip a 1 x 2 between the skin and just above the 

nose of the rib.  That way, I can drill a pilot hole (the last one toward the 

nose) without drilling thru the rib flange.  Then I can align the centerline 

mark on the rib flange thru this pilot hole.  Works every time.



Jay in Dallas w/601XL



Do not archive

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:10 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Mel-

    Cleco on the outside and use the biggest shims you can afford to set the 

wings on. Out here in the boondocks, we can get 6x6 roughcut blocking for 

next to nothing (If not nothing). Very nice being able to set or pull clecos 

without having to re-level everything.

                                                                Bill

---

agustafson(at)chartermi.n
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:24 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Me too am working on wing skins lately. On the second wing, which looks 

better than the first, I did the final rivet on the top skin before I even 

drilled the bottom. They say you can do some straightening by tapping on 

rivets but I didn't find that worked well. Use a small square to make sure 

the rib flanges are at 90 degrees before you start or the flanges will pull 

your skins out of flat. On my next 601 (((NOT))) I will do everything better 

and faster!  Make sure your table is flat w/ a level.



Aaron   do not archive

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:17 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Aaron-

    What do you mean, NOT! Wouldn't you like to do it right the first time? 

Even if it is the second time!

                                                                    Bill

                                do not archive

---

p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:56 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

I guess I am confused by this question.  When I do wing skins, the 

clecos go on the outside rather than the inside.  The only ones on 

the inside are in places that will always be accessible like the 

baggage compartment.



Paul

XL wings.



At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings 

and cleco top skin on the inside.

Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom 

skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from

the inside on the top skin.

nfivesl(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 6:41 am Post subject: Wing Skins

Paul:



If you cleco the inside of your wingskin, then rivet

the other side, you will have no way to remove the

clecos.  You should cleco the skin on the outside,

turn the wing over and use some sort of spacers (2x2's

or metal beams) so the clecos don't hit the table,

then rivet the side that is up.  In the case described

below, the bottom is riveted first so the clecos

should be on the outside of the top skin with the wing

resting on spacers.  The assembly manual available on

the ZAC builder's page is pretty clear on this.  



Some of the questions I read on this list lead me to

believe not everyone knows about the updated assembly

manuals.  ZAC will give you the password if you call

them in Mexico, MO.  



Scott Laughlin

www.cooknwithgas.com

Wiring my yoke



--- Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I guess I am confused by this question. 

 Paul

 XL wings.


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:

 >This might be a stupid question, but when you turn

 over the wings 

 >and cleco top skin on the inside.

 >Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go

 to rivet bottom 

 >skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from

 >the inside on the top skin.

 

 

 

 



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JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 7:40 am Post subject: Wing Skins

Mel, all of us that have built the wings know the issue and there are 

probably as many ways to resolve it as XLs out there. What I did was build the wing 

on top of two 12 foot steel I-beams that I mounted semi permeant on my 12x4 

building table. I got them level with a digital level and each time I flipped the 

wings it took two folks and we lifted high enough to clear the bottom 

inverted clecos and re set so the clecos cleared the beams. I built the whole wing 

without riveting until all skins and holes were ready. Then I riveted the bottom 

(minus flap attachment area where I inserted clecos up side down), top skin, 

then nose skin, then tip. I'm sure it can be accomplished other ways, but the 

beams assured everything was square and plum. best regards, Bill of Georgia

JohnDRead(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:09 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

Hello All:

                Regarding  wings and any part of the aircraft that you would 

like to build true. It is  imperative that the building table is flat with no 

twist or humps in it. My  table is a welded truss frame that will not twist. 

Any spacers that are used to  hold clecoed wings or other parts should also be 

parallel and true. How  flat and true (within 1/32 over 12 feet, if you want 

the plane to fly straight)? 

 

Regards, John Read, Starting a CH701

p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 6:24 pm Post subject: Wing Skins

I agree it is important to have a flat workbench and if it is also 

level it is even better.



On the other hand, I don't think it is necessary to have something as 

big as a wing within 1/32 inch of perfect.  This is only one of many 

things that can impact a plane's natural ability to fly straight and 

true.  Some of the other things include:  Rigging of both structure 

and control surfaces; presence or absence of a passenger;  exact fuel 

situation; power setting; weight and balance impact of baggage and 

cargo; and general weight and balance of the structure.  In the end 

it is elevator and aileron/rudder trim that will make the plane fly straight.



I think it is a great idea to build as true a structure as you can, 

but I wouldn't lose sleep over how close to perfect it comes out.



Paul

XL wings

do not archive



 	  Quote: 	
		  Regarding  wings and any part of the aircraft that you would

like to build true. It is  imperative that the building table is flat with no

twist or humps in it

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