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Amp Shunt Mounting Help Please

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CardinalNSB(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 5:45 pm Post subject: Amp Shunt Mounting Help Please

(For a certified aircraft)   I will be replacing my Cessna amp  gauge with the Electronics International Ammeter/Voltmeter, which is FAA  approved for my aircraft as a primary gauge replacement using a "shunt".

  

 1.  Should the shunt be mounted inside the cockpit or in the engine  compartment.

  

 2.  Should the shunt be firmly mounted to the firewall or other  structure, or is it ok to "freehang", it doesn't seem to be bigger than the turn  coordinator capacitor that just hangs in the harness.

  

 3.  The wires that go from the shunt to the instrument are hot  whenever the master switch is on.  The installation manual recommends a 1  amp fuse on each wire.  What is the best fusing practice?  inline fuse  on each lead next to the shunt?  fuseable link?  don't worry, the  wire will burn out somewhere before it causes problems? are there any  shunts that incorporate a mini atc fuse in its base?

  

 4.  For tidiness, I would like to use a single conductor shielded wire  using the shield as one of the shunt leads.  Is there any reason this is  not a good idea?  would twisting the leads in a drill mess up the  accuracy?

  

 5.  Is there any reason I shouldn't take the voltage/power/light power  off of one of the ammeter leads (the one on the same side of the shunt as the  rest of the bus) to save running extra wire?

  

 Thanks for the help, Skip S

  [quote][b]

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wcurtis(at)nerv10.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:52 am Post subject: Amp Shunt Mounting Help Please

Skip,

 �

 You are needlessly complicating your electrical system by adding an external shunt, voltage power lights, fusible links etc.� Order the EI VA-1A replacement ammeter/voltmeter with the INTERNAL shunt.� If your Cessna wiring was like my Cardinal stock ammeter,�it also had an internal shunt and if you replace with the VA-1A, you will not have to make ANY�changes to the "big" wires.

 

 You can see it in this picture, lower left: http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/cardinal/panel/panel88.html 

-- 

William

N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/



 On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 2:55 AM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server <aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)> wrote:

 [quote]Time: 06:45:30 PM PST US

From: CardinalNSB(at)aol.com (CardinalNSB(at)aol.com)

Subject: Amp Shunt Mounting Help Please

 

(For a certified aircraft) � I will be replacing my Cessna amp �gauge with

the Electronics International Ammeter/Voltmeter, which is FAA �approved for

my aircraft as a primary gauge replacement using a "shunt".

 

1. �Should the shunt be mounted inside the cockpit or in the engine

compartment.



2. �Should the shunt be firmly mounted to the firewall or other �structure,

or is it ok to "freehang", it doesn't seem to be bigger than the turn

 coordinator capacitor that just hangs in the harness.



3. �The wires that go from the shunt to the instrument are hot �whenever

the master switch is on. �The installation manual recommends a 1 �amp fuse on

each wire. �What is the best fusing practice? �inline fuse �on each lead

 next to the shunt? �fuseable link? �don't worry, the �wire will burn out

somewhere before it causes problems? are there any �shunts that incorporate a mini



atc fuse in its base?



4. �For tidiness, I would like to use a single conductor shielded wire

 using the shield as one of the shunt leads. �Is there any reason this is �not a



good idea? �would twisting the leads in a drill mess up the �accuracy?



5. �Is there any reason I shouldn't take the voltage/power/light power �off

 of one of the ammeter leads (the one on the same side of the shunt as the

rest of the bus) to save running extra wire?



Thanks for the help, Skip S

[b]

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:20 am Post subject: Amp Shunt Mounting Help Please

At 08:42 PM 5/31/2010, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   (For a certified aircraft)   I will be replacing my Cessna amp gauge with the Electronics International Ammeter/Voltmeter, which is FAA approved for my aircraft as a primary gauge replacement using a "shunt". 	


    Bill offered an excellent alternative if that's an option

    for you. The stock Cessna ammeters were minus-zero-plus

    battery ammeters with internal shunts. The electronic

    drop-in replacment is a good bet.

  	  Quote: 	
		    

 1.  Should the shunt be mounted inside the cockpit or in the engine compartment. 	


    close to where the old ammeter was mounted. Ideally

    you'd like to put the ORIGINAL ammeter wires directly

    on the new shunt.

  	  Quote: 	
		    

 2.  Should the shunt be firmly mounted to the firewall or other structure, or is it ok to "freehang", it doesn't seem to be bigger than the turn coordinator capacitor that just hangs in the harness. 	


    Your observation is correct but you might

    have trouble getting that past the next

    annual inspection.

  	  Quote: 	
		    

 3.  The wires that go from the shunt to the instrument are hot whenever the master switch is on.  The installation manual recommends a 1 amp fuse on each wire.  What is the best fusing practice?  inline fuse on each lead next to the shunt?  fuseable link?  don't worry, the wire will burn out somewhere before it causes problems? are there any shunts that incorporate a mini atc fuse in its base? 	


    No . . . you don't ALREADY have a shunt?

    Use 1 amp, in-line holders. If your shunt

    is close to the ammeter hole in the panel,

    then I'd just make the leads out of 24AWG

    wire, put a couple layers of heat shrink over

    them and no fuses. Their ability to smoke

    is limited.



  	  Quote: 	
		    

 4.  For tidiness, I would like to use a single conductor shielded wire using the shield as one of the shunt leads.  Is there any reason this is not a good idea?  would twisting the leads in a drill mess up the accuracy? 	


    Single wires with either 1A in-line fuses

    or extra insulated 24AWG and no fuses.



  	  Quote: 	
		   5.  Is there any reason I shouldn't take the voltage/power/light power off of one of the ammeter leads (the one on the same side of the shunt as the rest of the bus) to save running extra wire? 	


    Not REAL sure without knowing more about

    the instrument's capabilities. Try it and

    see. Otherwise, it's always best to follow

    installation instructions.



 

   Bob . . .    [quote][b]

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