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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 6:59 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone |
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LET ME TRY TO EXPLAIN WITHOUT GOING OVERBOARD.
I did most of mine with a helper. Back rivetting most of everything. Most
of the bucking was done with a smaller heavy bar, but once the structure
starts getting some rigidity then multible rivets can be set with a long bar
like the one sold for doing the elevator, it is about 13 inches long.
One rivet at a time with every other hole clecoed at first helps to avoid
the mishap of the bucker holding the incorrect rivet and the setter
firing.....dent!
An order of commands helps also like bucker saying- ready, then setter
saying- ready, then bucker saying -Go. and then setter- firiing.
I turned the structure upside down and put mats down to protect my knees and
was inside the cone most of the time. Hearing protection a must.
The order follows the manual, but it gets a little more difficult with the
top skins. I did those from the outside, still back riveting, but I pulled
up the side of the top skin and then shot from the opposite side while my
partener was up on top standing on a milk crate.
At the very end some of the inner most rivets, like the longerons closest to
the H.S. get hard to access. Lay the cone on its Rt/Lf side and again come
in from underneath, meaning the hole in the side(THE FRONT TOP SKIN STAY
OFF) This will give you access while sanding up and bending to the inner
most guts of the project.
Watch out for hamstring cramps and lateral olbiques. Who knew that riveting
could be so good for stretching.
There are a couple of rivets which seem to require an dbl offset back rivet
set, you will realize what you need when you get there. I bought too long
of a back rivet offset for my 2X gun and it didn't work too well. I think
this one was made for a 3X gun, the mass of the gun inners and the set
didn't correlate well together.
Really explain the priciples to your helper..don't assume anything. Make
sure the gun stops before they remove the bar. It took a lot of work to get
this far on the structure. Explanations are good.
Hope this helps
John G. 409
Building is stopping as the thermals are upon us and my 60 feet of wing is
longing to be bent.
If it were not for us sailplaners, I'd tell Tim Olson to fly under the cloud
streets and throttle back on his way out to San Diego. He could save a lot
of fuel, but his occupants may not enjoy it so much...also look out for us
below cloud base. We do not fly at set altitudes based on direction.
Tim, In my opinion, I would perhaps think about a more northern route,
prettier and cooler. Sailplanes fly cross country by using alternates
landout spots, we need to be able to glide to our next alternate before we
fly on. In the Rv 10 un populated roads will work for landing sites but
look for them on you charts, road maps, satellite images and topo maps.
It is a great time of year. Cheers!!
[quote]From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 17:41:32 -0700
Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
the best hole.
In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
site,
unless it's been done elsewhere.
Again, thanks.
John Jessen
328 tailcone
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elhershb(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 8:15 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone |
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We solved the bucking problem by building a stack of metal 2" wide x 14" long and tall enough to clear the clecos. We sat this on the bench and slide it from front to back as we back-riveted the stiffeners. We could do 10 to 15 rivets at a time. This worked well for the bottom and both sides.
Once these were done and the top sheets were clecoed on, we sat the tailcone on end. We raised it about 2' off the floor. Once it was secure one of us crawled inside to buck the rivets, wearing hearing protection. This worked well as there was no physical straining or worry about damaging the skins, frames and stiffeners.
Doing the round corners was the hardest. It took patiences and practice for us to get some decent shop heads.
Edward Hershberger
#40430 (Wings)
> >From: "John Jessen"
[quote] >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
>Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 17:41:32 -0700
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
>
>Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
>take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
>the best hole.
>
>In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
>rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
>one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
>"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
>site,
>unless it's been d one el , List
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