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michael(at)wellenzohn.net
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 Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 11:01 pm Post subject: Pneumatic squeezer |
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Hello everybody, after having solved my priming issue I started to hit my
first rivets and it worked out pretty good. I still have one issue. I tried
to use the pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the rivets AD4-7 but it didn't
work. The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Zurich,Switzerland
michael(at)wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
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seipel(at)seznam.cz
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| Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 11:36 pm Post subject: Pneumatic squeezer |
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You have the dies too close together, and the cam inside the squeezer
can't get over center. The squeezer develops all of its force in the
last 1/8" or so of travel. If you're using an adjustable set, back it
off some. If you're using washers, take one or two out.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
| Quote: |
Hello everybody, after having solved my priming issue I started to hit my
first rivets and it worked out pretty good. I still have one issue. I tried
to use the pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the rivets AD4-7 but it didn't
work. The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Zurich,Switzerland
michael(at)wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
|
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LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 4:56 am Post subject: Pneumatic squeezer |
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In a message dated 5/8/2006 3:02:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, michael(at)wellenzohn.net writes:
| Quote: | The squeezer didn't seem to have enough poweralthough I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working? |
The squeezer has its most power at the end ofthe stroke. If it hits the rivet too soon, it wont compress. Try on ascrap piece and open the gap up on the squezer... and make small incremental changes until it works,..... then rivet away. I remember a few places where i set a bunch of rivets and then reset the depth and re-squeezed to get the shop head to the right size... very easy second hit, as the rivet isnot able to move.
Steve
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mike(at)cleavelandtool.co
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| Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 6:10 am Post subject: Pneumatic squeezer |
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The other replies are correct... The following table is a good starting place. It says hand squeezer but applies to both hand and pneumatic. If the list won’t pass the table it can be found here:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/instructions/squeezer_setup_table.html
Table Shows Mathematically Derived Gap Between Squeezer Sets for Various Rivet Sizes
-3 Rivet Length
-3.5 Rivet Length
-4 Rivet Length
-4.5 Rivet Length
-5 Rivet Length
-6 Rivet Length
-7 Rivet Length
3/32" Diameter Rivet
3/32"
1/8"
5/32"
3/16"
7/32"
9/32"
11/32"
1/8" Diameter Rivet
1/16"
3/32"
1/8"
5/32"
3/16"
1/4"
5/16"
The "Gap" referred to is the distance between the flat or cup sets when the handle is fully closed on the hand squeezer, and when the trigger is fully depressed on the pneumatic squeezer. These measurements are just a place to start and will vary with the exact material thickness, the flex of the squeezer yoke, mounting pins, internal part loading, and compression of the sets in the yoke and ram. If you start with these measurements you can measure the finished rivet with the rivet gauge, and adjust to fine tune.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
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