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Stall horn

 
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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:44 am    Post subject: Stall horn Reply with quote
On page 17-3 before we rivet the outboard leading edges together we are asked to go to page 19-2 to install the stall horn access and modify the splice rib. Is it OK to go ahead onto page 19-3 and install the stall horn instead of coming back after the tanks are finished and do this. The instructions only have us modify the skin for the access cover and modify the splice ribs before we rivet the leading edges together. Sure looks like it would be a lot easier to install the stall horn now--before we rivet the leading edge all together. The only drawback I see is the little flapper sticking out the front of the skin to catch on things.

Thanks,
Bill
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:44 am    Post subject: Stall horn Reply with quote
I recommend installing the stall vane once to make sure it fits & nutplates are good, then remove it & pack away for installation on finished plane. Very easy to bend accidentally.

Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org (jesse(at)itecusa.org)
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 17, 2010, at 11:23 AM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net (william(at)gbta.net)> wrote:

[quote] On page 17-3 before we rivet the outboard leading edges together we are asked to go to page 19-2 to install the stall horn access and modify the splice rib. Is it OK to go ahead onto page 19-3 and install the stall horn instead of coming back after the tanks are finished and do this. The instructions only have us modify the skin for the access cover and modify the splice ribs before we rivet the leading edges together. Sure looks like it would be a lot easier to install the stall horn now--before we rivet the leading edge all together. The only drawback I see is the little flapper sticking out the front of the skin to catch on things.

Thanks,
Bill
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Stall horn Reply with quote
A couple of thoughts.

Assuming you do a tank flush/leak check, you will remove the tanks from the wings at least one more time. This provides opportunity to install the stall horn sender later. I would also check to see if the sender would interfere with bucking the skin rivets or not.

I fabricated the stall horn sender but have decided not to use it. Instead I’ll rely on the AOA indication on the Skyview EFIS. I don’t have a Stall horn or AOA in the 8A and find the inherent stall indications to be more than adequate. I do however note that the 10 may benefit from a stall horn or an AOA.

Carl

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 11:23 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Stall horn

On page 17-3 before we rivet the outboard leading edges together we are asked to go to page 19-2 to install the stall horn access and modify the splice rib. Is it OK to go ahead onto page 19-3 and install the stall horn instead of coming back after the tanks are finished and do this. The instructions only have us modify the skin for the access cover and modify the splice ribs before we rivet the leading edges together. Sure looks like it would be a lot easier to install the stall horn now--before we rivet the leading edge all together. The only drawback I see is the little flapper sticking out the front of the skin to catch on things.



Thanks,

Bill
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