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wdaniell(at)etb.net.co
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 Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:14 am Post subject: Tailplane retention mod |
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I got my tail out and started going through the tailplane retention mod -
the one where you have to dig a hole in the underneath of the tailplane.
Do you need longer pip pins and if so what is the reference and where do I
get them from?
Thanks
Will
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g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 7:34 am Post subject: Tailplane retention mod |
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Will
I have done Mod 73 about 10 times so far. Of these only a couple of
builders decided to buy longer pins.
In general you do not need a longer pin if you carefully recess round the
hole.
Europa have longer pins if you want them.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
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jglazener
Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 76
Location: Schoonhoven, Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:25 am Post subject: Re: Tailplane retention mod |
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Ian,
I have just been doing Mod 73. What struck me was that for this recess you have to lap the bid onto the tailplane surface. If you then cover it with two more plies, there is going to be a pretty substantial bump which will inevitably influence the aerodynamics. It is also incredibly difficult to do without making bubbles.
The top recess on the other hand only needs flox corners and can be trimmed flush. Do you know why this is?
Best regards,
Jeroen Glazener
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=44165
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wdaniell(at)etb.net.co
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:23 am Post subject: Tailplane retention mod |
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Thanks
I was wondering....
I even bought some longer pins in anticipation of doing the mod from
McMaster...but yesterday I fitted them and pulled (by the body not the ring)
to test retention and out they came...not encouraging!
So I think I'll use the originals which don't come out when you pull them.
AT least mine don't.
Yours
Will
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g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:57 am Post subject: Tailplane retention mod |
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Jeroen
The simple answer is that the LAA wanted the best possible bond between the
bearing and the skin.
It is a difficult layup to do which is why I have done so many other peoples
aircraft. Make sure you make a reasonable radius from the "pit" onto the
skin.
The two layers of BID on the surface should only be about 0.6mm thick and
when flared in with some filler are not noticeable. I have not detected any
noticeable change in handling so I assume the aerodynamics are OK
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
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craigb(at)onthenet.com.au
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:42 pm Post subject: Tailplane retention mod |
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As for the BUMP, if you use some sponge rubber (dish washing, seat bases
etc)
Cut some pieces about 10-15mm bigger than the hole all round, and another
piece
For the skin surface, wrap the foam in lunch wrap plastic and put it in the
hole
After you do your layup, and then the large skin piece over the hole, with
plastic again
And some heavy (4 or 5 kg) object, like a sand bag on top, will compress the
layups
Much the same as vacuum bagging would, it will generally push any excess
resin out past
The edge of the cloth, giving you a "glass like" very smooth compact layup.
I use this
Method for most of my glass work now where conformation into or onto a
complex shape would see a constant fight with the glass lifting creating
"bubbles" underneath. Four
Layers of bid done like this looks like about 1 layer thick
Hope this helps
Regards
craig
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