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philperry9(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 6:04 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and bullet shaped pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
[quote][b]
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 6:36 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one has no door.
[quote] ---
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condreyb(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:43 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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Pretty much that simple. You thread the inside of the rods as part of the standard Van's install (page 45, step 1) for marking the hole location in the door jamb. After the hole marking step you simply cut off the taper and install the threaded tips. The aluminum blocks simply replace the stock Delrin pieces. Unlike the Delrin pieces you can match drill from the aluminum blocks for the mount holes.
Â
Alignment for the door latch sensors is identical to stock except that the magnets are integral to the tips (I think all of the sources now do this). Just adjust the reed switches so that they only trigger when the latch is completely shut.
Â
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:00 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com (philperry9(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and bullet shaped pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
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get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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condreyb(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:44 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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The aftermarket pins from IFLYRV10.com are stainless with steel threaded rods and installed with locktite.
Â
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com (dlm34077(at)q.com)> wrote:
[quote] Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one has no door.
[quote] ---
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rv10rob(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:43 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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| Quote: | It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one has no door.
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I think it'd be difficult for a pin to thread all the way out without noticing. That said, it's not too difficult to build it such that even without the pins, the rod engages with the aluminum block.
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com (dlm34077(at)q.com)> wrote:
[quote] Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one has no door.
[quote] ---
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:04 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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Although I think it's a good idea and all, my worry has
always been that some flexing on the shaft will split
the tubing at the point where you cut the threads in.
So the tips then crack the tubing and it separates.
If that happened, it wouldn't be good. I was thinking
that if you could build it so a sleeve got glued over
top of the joint, but didn't interfere with the action
of it all by going through the nylon, it would make it
more comforting. But at this point there are enough
people flying them that we should see a good initial
service history pretty soon. I'm just not a fan
of the aluminum tubing part of the system.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 2/8/2011 10:40 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
[quote] > It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if
they loosen and separate, one has no door.
I think it'd be difficult for a pin to thread all the way out without
noticing. That said, it's not too difficult to build it such that even
without the pins, the rod engages with the aluminum block.
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:28 AM, DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com
<mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com>> wrote:
Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its
two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and
separate, one has no door.
---
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AirMike
Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada
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| Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:36 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets install |
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It is a pretty simple add-on and provides a lot of security. I have been flying for over as year with no noticeable wear or trouble. I consider these pins virtually a mandatory option. I had to ream out one or two of my aluminum receivers as the install angle is very critical and they were mounted very slightly off dead center. The advantage is that they bring the door and door pins into alignment and provide a super secure lock.
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See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold. |
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partner14
Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas
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| Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 9:08 am Post subject: Door Pin - Bullets |
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Mike, I couldn't have said it better myself. Well over 200 hours, and they still look band new.... Although I still ck each door on every single flight, and will continue doing that forever, I have much more confidence in these vs. the stk Van's install. Also consider doing (at least) this mandatory.
Don McDonald
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, February 9, 2011 10:36:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Pin - Bullets
--> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net (Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net)>
It is a pretty simple add-on and provides a lot of security. I have been flying for over as year with no noticeable wear or trouble. I consider these pins virtually a mandatory option. I had to ream out one or two of my aluminum receivers as the install angle is very critical and they were mounted very slightly off dead center. The advantage is that they bring the door and door pins into alignment and provide a super secure lock.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
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in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. [quote][b]
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Don A. McDonald
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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| Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:07 pm Post subject: Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
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I finally got around to respond to this. From selling pins and guides and setting up a bunch of doors and talking to customers I have learned a lot about the doors. Two of my customers had pushrod tubes from Vans that were extruded with oversized I.D.s which would not hold the 5/16-24 thread. It is important to make sure the threads engage well enough to hold the pins in place. Loc-tite is great after finishing the pin installation. I sell both styles of pins, angled and bullet. My pins are hollow with long 5/16-24 set screws and allow the builder to epoxy vans' magnets inside the pins. They work great that way and don't need further adjustment for the proximity switches. They also work good because they are not open at the end to catch on anything . Mechanical micro switches work with these too of course.
I do believe Vans had the good idea of having an angle on the end to pull the pins to the guides. If you think about it, the angled pins have 7/16 of error to pull the door into the guides where the bullet pins have only 7/32. I try to talk my customers that have the 180 handles to use the stainless angled pins and Delrin guides. They really work well together. I only sell the aluminum guides with bullet pins because the stainless angled pins will catch on the aluminum where the bullet pins slide through easier. The only time I suggest the angled pins is on 180 kits when the length of penetration into the the cabin structure is sufficient. 90 degrees only gives you about 1 inch of pin extension. Vans' setup is about 110 degrees and give the pins about 1-1/4 of extension. 180 gives the pins 2 inches of travel or with the planearound latch it gives you 30-60 degrees of the cam pulling in the door and the rest to pin extension (1-1/4 to 1-5/8 inches of travel).
Some things to think about - anyone starting out with the door should NOT cut the Vans' rack gears per the instructions. You should cut them in half leaving five inches for the upper and lower pieces. Even if you don't want the extra travel, it is there if you ever want it. Cutting them short per Vans' instructions limits the travel of the handle from the blind rivet in the gear rack or the end of the gear rack hitting the Vans' gearbox. If you don't want the full 180 degrees you could drill the rack gear and push a roll pin in it to stop the rotation if you desired. The gear racks are EXPENSIVE and add 80 bucks to the retro fit 180 just because plans tell you to cut them short.
I encourage any questions about the door, door pins, door guides, latches etc. even if your not interested in anything I sell. I truly want builders to have the info for their project no matter what they are doing. The doors are the achilles heel of the RV-10. I'm not saying they don't work, they just require attention. The plane is absolutely awesome overall, this is just the weakest link.
801-580-3737
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40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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