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BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:20 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
[quote][b]
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aerobiz1(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:55 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Bobby,
Sounds like you are running out of fuel that is delivered from the float chamber via the 'choke' or mixture enrichening system.
Remove the float bowl, find the little brass jet in the recess, remove, then drill it out to about 2mm, replace and try .....
You can also try turning out the idle mixture screw another one or one and a half turns richer...
Marty
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 6:17 AM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote]List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
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nick(at)flylightning.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:09 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Marty,
2mm may work for you however the suggested size from the Jabba chat news letter is 1.2mm for a 3300 or 1mm for the 2200, no larger.
For the 3300 the 1.2mm is also a 3/64” or #56.
Thanks
Nick
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aerobiz1(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:17 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Thanks Nick. Correcto Mondo.......please forgive the typo. Hope no -one has started drilling yet !
Marty
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 7:06 AM, nick <nick(at)flylightning.net (nick(at)flylightning.net)> wrote:
[quote]
Marty,
2mm may work for you however the suggested size from the Jabba chat news letter is 1.2mm for a 3300 or 1mm for the 2200, no larger.
For the 3300 the 1.2mm is also a 3/64” or #56.
Thanks
Nick
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Clive J
Joined: 03 Nov 2007 Posts: 340 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:17 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Mine does that in the cold. I figure it starts on the slug of fuel that is in the part that feeds the ‘starting carburettor’, it dies when it runs out as the starting carburettor itself isn’t rich enough. The fuel that flows to the ‘starting carburettor’ (opened by the ‘choke lever’) is metered by the restrictor in the bottom of the chamber on the side of the carby bowl. There are those that suggest that that restrictor is made larger. I intend to do that as I think it part of the issue, I’m waiting till it gets cold enough so I can see the effect it has. I’m sure someone will chirp in with the recommended size to drill it out to. I’m going to go slowly with opening it out.
When you pause the fuel in the slug chamber is replenished by gravity from the main part of the carby bowl. When the level comes back up, then you can crank and get it to fire and then die as it’s still not rich enough to run after the slug has gone. Eventually the cylinders get warm enough to allow it to fire even though it’s a bit weak.
Read the Bing manual that is in the Jabiru engine manual, good pictures and explanation.
The ‘Choke’ lever opens a rotary slide valve that allows air through to drag the fuel from chamber at the side of the bowl where the slug is and the restrictor sits.
It’s important that this is fully rotated the last few degrees making the most difference. There is some pictures showing a mod that can be done to the quadrant in the Yahoo engine list album. This allows the rotary valve to go a little further, this has been found to be a problem on some carbys.
My 2200 does none of this, it just starts, unless it Baltic then it doesn’t.
My 5c on the burst and die phenomena, Regards, Clive
3300 #1460, 37 hrs
2200#596, 1300hrs
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net
Sent: 07 December 2011 20:18
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Cold Weather Starts
List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
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pete(at)usjabiru.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:30 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Try richening the idle mixture by turning the idle mixture screw counter clockwise (out) a turn. If that does not help then drill out the choke jet in the carb bowl to 1.2 mm. That will also provide a richer idle mixture in cold weather.
Pete
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 2:18 PM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Cold Weather Starts
List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
01234567890123456789012
[quote][b]
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011 Posts: 738
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:33 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Bobby:
I fly an RV6 with an O-360 that is very temperaturesensitive. It requires a GOOD pre-heat before starting.
From your explanation, I do not think it is vaporization problem. It sounds like it is TOO RICH.
100W bulb would only help when the temps are on the high side AND you are hangered.
Try building an adjustable Propane 50,000 BTU pre-heater... Cost will be under $200. And the engine will reach 60F on a 20F days in 15 minutes.
Barry
On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 3:17 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote] List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
Quote: |
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[b]
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BobsV35B(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:51 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Good Afternoon Barry,
Not sure if this is the truth or just an Old Wives Tale, but back in the days when I was warming big round engines for Uncle Sam, they told us that short heat times were counter productive. We were told that even if the temperature gauge came up in fifteen minutes, the Herman Nelson should be left applied for at least a couple of hours.
The idea was that the heat needs to be evenly distributed throughout the engine and that will not occur in a short time. Seems that some components may not fit as well as they should without even heating. May not be true, just repeating what I was told sixty-five years ago!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Corporal
USMC
In a message dated 12/7/2011 4:33:32 P.M. Central Standard Time, flyadive(at)gmail.com writes:
Quote: | Bobby:
I fly an RV6 with an O-360 that is very temperature sensitive. It requires a GOOD pre-heat before starting.
From your explanation, I do not think it is vaporization problem. It sounds like it is TOO RICH.
100W bulb would only help when the temps are on the high side AND you are hangered.
Try building an adjustable Propane 50,000 BTU pre-heater... Cost will be under $200. And the engine will reach 60F on a 20F days in 15 minutes.
Barry
On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 3:17 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
Quote: | List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
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[quote][b]
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Clive J
Joined: 03 Nov 2007 Posts: 340 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:59 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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Booby, with the greatest respect, what rubbish.
You should be able to start a Jabiru and a Lycoming down to 45 degrees easily without pre heating and with a few tweaks I’m sure Bobby will.
Dear me….$200 for a 2c solution, do you work for a contract company that supports and multi national major by any chance?
I suppose at least were’ not talking about piston offset, although I’m getting withdrawal symptoms, let’s hear a bit more about slap and rocking over….Lynn, it’s been nearly two hours!
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: 07 December 2011 22:31
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Cold Weather Starts
Bobby:
I fly an RV6 with an O-360 that is very temperature sensitive. It requires a GOOD pre-heat before starting.
From your explanation, I do not think it is vaporization problem. It sounds like it is TOO RICH.
100W bulb would only help when the temps are on the high side AND you are hangered.
Try building an adjustable Propane 50,000 BTU pre-heater... Cost will be under $200. And the engine will reach 60F on a 20F days in 15 minutes.
Barry
On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 3:17 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
012345678901234567890123456789012
[quote][b]
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011 Posts: 738
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:22 pm Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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FIRST OFF... THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE.And don't forget what to day is:
Today, December 7, 1941a day that will live ininfamy.
Well, Bob, some of the story is true.
The idea of quickly heating the outside of an engine and not heating the inside does cause adifferencein expansion and contraction. There is thepossibilitythat one part could expand and apply pressure to another. The only thing wrong with thetheoryis it takes quite a bit of Cold to Contract metals and quite a bit of Heat to rapidly expand metals.
If you monitor the engine temp with things like your OIL Temp Probe and CHT Probe and EGT Probe you will see with confidence that the engine is heating up very uniform. I've pre-heated on 20 F days to where my OIL Probe moved off the peg and was reading 70F INSIDE the engine.
A good 30 minutes to 1 hour of pre-heat with my homemade unit will bring an entire engine up to summer temps.
Semper Fidelis, Old Man
Barry
USAF
2Lt
On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 5:48 PM, <BobsV35B(at)aol.com (BobsV35B(at)aol.com)> wrote:
[quote] Good Afternoon Barry,
Not sure if this is the truth or just an Old Wives Tale, but back in the days when I was warming big round engines for Uncle Sam, they told us that short heat times were counter productive. We were told that even if the temperature gauge came up in fifteen minutes, the Herman Nelson should be left applied for at least a couple of hours.
The idea was that theheat needs to be evenly distributed throughout the engine and that will not occur in a short time. Seems that some components may not fit as well as they should without even heating. May not be true, just repeating what I was told sixty-five years ago!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Corporal
USMC
In a message dated 12/7/2011 4:33:32 P.M. Central Standard Time, flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com) writes:
Quote: | Bobby:
I fly an RV6 with an O-360 that is very temperaturesensitive. It requires a GOOD pre-heat before starting.
From your explanation, I do not think it is vaporization problem. It sounds like it is TOO RICH.
100W bulb would only help when the temps are on the high side AND you are hangered.
Try building an adjustable Propane 50,000 BTU pre-heater... Cost will be under $200. And the engine will reach 60F on a 20F days in 15 minutes.
Barry
On Wed, Dec 7, 2011 at 3:17 PM, <BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net (BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
Quote: | List,
My 3300 is very hard to start and continue running in 45 to 60 deg. weather. With the choke full on and throttle at idle it will start and run about 2 -3 seconds and die. I have to wait about 20 to 30 sec. ( most likely for vaporization ) before trying it again or it will not fire. After about 10 repeats it will have enough heat to continue to run. It does a little better on 100LL and a little worse on Autofuel. I have checked the gap in the ignition coils and float level in the carb. I am running a 260 main jet with 285 needle jet.
A 100 watt light under the cowl all night helps a little also.
After the first start of the day it will start instantly and continue running great even if the temperature stays in the 40 to 50 deg.range. Is this a choke issue or ??
Any ideas??
Bobby
3300 133 hrs.
601 XL "B"
N131BP
|
|
Quote: |
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[b]
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 2778 Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:23 am Post subject: Cold Weather Starts |
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But if you'll notice, Clive, we aren't over on the Yahoo side of
things. We are now speaking to a brand new audience of Matronics
people....people who probably have not even HEARD of the piston pin
offset thread.
I took two hours off to go "de-float" a J-3 Cub, in anticipation of
replacing the floats with skis. : ) And we were talking pistons,
pins, and which way is up, over at the hangar!
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062
Prince prop 64 x 30, P-tip
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)
Status: flying with 1201 hrs... (since 3-27-2006)
On Dec 7, 2011, at 5:56 PM, James, Clive R wrote:
Quote: | Booby, with the greatest respect, what rubbish.
You should be able to start a Jabiru and a Lycoming down to 45
degrees easily without pre heating and with a few tweaks Im sure
Bobby will.
Dear me.$200 for a 2c solution, do you work for a contract company
that supports and multi national major by any chance?
I suppose at least were not talking about piston offset, although
Im getting withdrawal symptoms, lets hear a bit more about slap
and rocking over.Lynn, its been nearly two hours!
|
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_________________ Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM |
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