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Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance

 
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance Reply with quote

Having just completed my first condition inspection, I found that I
needed jacking solutions so I could pull the wheels.

Thanks to all who have previously posted jack solutions. I'm posting my
designs to hopefully save others some time. The key things for me; it
had to be reliable, low cost to fabricate, and no welding.

Main gear:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=154391&row=2
Nose gear:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=154392&row=1

Bill "back to traveling again" Watson


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coop85(at)verizon.net
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:51 am    Post subject: Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance Reply with quote

Bill,
These are great ideas and remarkably timely as it's that time of year for me again as well. Thanks!!!!

Marcus
do not archive

On Aug 18, 2012, at 12:23 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:



Having just completed my first condition inspection, I found that I needed jacking solutions so I could pull the wheels.

Thanks to all who have previously posted jack solutions. I'm posting my designs to hopefully save others some time. The key things for me; it had to be reliable, low cost to fabricate, and no welding.

Main gear:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=154391&row=2
Nose gear:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=154392&row=1

Bill "back to traveling again" Watson


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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 9:45 am    Post subject: Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance Reply with quote

Bill,

I did something similar but I use a padded block on top. The padded block
is just a 2x6 covered in scrap insulation material. The block is held in
place by a pipe flange that has a 1/4" thick piece of scrap aluminum so that
the jack does not work its way through the wood block. The flange also
allows the block to swivel on the jack, aligning the block with the wing
tapper, but the flange rig prevents the block from slipping off the jack. I
position the center of the block long ways under the wing spar. My thought
on this was to spread the load over a larger area. I was also concerned of
jacking up the wing using a bolt in the tie down as either a slip off the
bolt or the tie down screw block not holding would cause significant damage.
I may just be paranoid on this aspect - but I'm happy with how this works.

Carl
--


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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance Reply with quote

Carl, I worried quite a bit about that too then just decided to follow
the herd. Seems like a lot of people use the tie down point and some
have indicated that Vans approves. I hope that's the case.

I should add that I do all the wheel removal pre-work while it's on the
ground, I jack it, remove the wheel, then use wood blocks under the axle
to lower it down on to.

Thanks,
Bill
On 8/18/2012 1:44 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
Quote:
Bill,

I did something similar but I use a padded block on top. The padded block
is just a 2x6 covered in scrap insulation material. The block is held in
place by a pipe flange that has a 1/4" thick piece of scrap aluminum so that
the jack does not work its way through the wood block. The flange also
allows the block to swivel on the jack, aligning the block with the wing
tapper, but the flange rig prevents the block from slipping off the jack. I
position the center of the block long ways under the wing spar. My thought
on this was to spread the load over a larger area. I was also concerned of
jacking up the wing using a bolt in the tie down as either a slip off the
bolt or the tie down screw block not holding would cause significant damage.
I may just be paranoid on this aspect - but I'm happy with how this works.

Carl



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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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coop85(at)verizon.net
Guest





PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Jacking up the '10 to do wheel maintenance Reply with quote

Nice mod Carl, I truly appreciate both your and Bill's postings as they are quite helpful.

Thanks,
Marcus

do not archive
On Aug 18, 2012, at 1:44 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> wrote:

Bill,

I did something similar but I use a padded block on top. The padded block
is just a 2x6 covered in scrap insulation material. The block is held in
place by a pipe flange that has a 1/4" thick piece of scrap aluminum so that
the jack does not work its way through the wood block. The flange also
allows the block to swivel on the jack, aligning the block with the wing
tapper, but the flange rig prevents the block from slipping off the jack. I
position the center of the block long ways under the wing spar. My thought
on this was to spread the load over a larger area. I was also concerned of
jacking up the wing using a bolt in the tie down as either a slip off the
bolt or the tie down screw block not holding would cause significant damage.
I may just be paranoid on this aspect - but I'm happy with how this works.

Carl
--


- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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