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912uls

 
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frank goodnight



Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Posts: 126

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:22 am    Post subject: 912uls Reply with quote

Good morning Kolbers,
Has any one flying a 912uls had a problem with Rotax ASB-912-062.
I bought a used 800hr 912uls , and it looks like about every 5 hrs it soots up both
plugs on only the # 2 cyl. Runs great and has a good mag drop -about a 100 Rpm.
However after about 5 hrs, When doing a cold start the #2 cyl is dead ,starts on 3 cyls
and shakes so bad that it shakes the left carb out of the socket before I can get it shut down.
If i change out the top #2 cyl plug-everthing is great until the cycle repeats.
I don't think my engine Ser # 5643239 is included in the SB , however the plugs Are fouled.
As this could cause me to cancel the planed trip to Rock House I really would like to get this cleared up quickly.
1. As both #2 cyl plugs are involved and all other cyls plugs are ok the problem may not involve the ignition system?
2. Hav not done a compression check yet . will do one soonest.
3. Only other thing I can think of , I had to cut up and reweld the exhaust, could be
too much restriction in that one pipe?
Appreciate any Ideas , Don't wont to buy a new head unless I have to.
Frank



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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:06 am    Post subject: 912uls Reply with quote

Has any one flying a 912uls had a problem with Rotax ASB-912-062.

I bought a used 800hr 912uls , and it looks like about every 5 hrs it soots up both

plugs on only the # 2 cyl. Runs great and has a good mag drop -about a 100 Rpm.



Appreciate any Ideas , Don't wont to buy a new head unless I have to.

Frank

Quote:
Frank G/Kolbers: If I had that problem, I'd give Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Light Aircraft, a call. Ronnie has a lot of experience with 912 engines is a ROTAX master repair facility. (601) 508-6545 john h
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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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racerjerry



Joined: 15 Dec 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Deer Park, NY

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 2:52 am    Post subject: Re: 912uls Reply with quote

Are the plugs wet (oily) or dry (soot)?

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Jerry King
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frank goodnight



Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Posts: 126

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:33 am    Post subject: 912uls Reply with quote

Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or not , but
definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a bronze brush.
Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.
Frank
do not archive
From: racerjerry <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 5:52:59 AM
Subject: Re: 912uls

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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:42 am    Post subject: 912uls Reply with quote

Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or not , but

definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a bronze brush.

Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.

Frank
Quote:
Two things come to mind: -Enricher is leaking past the "O" rings. -Carbs out of sync.
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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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frank goodnight



Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Posts: 126

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 6:31 am    Post subject: 912uls Reply with quote

John, and others that answered my request for help.
Talked to Ronnie Smith-- as per your suggestion--Thanks for his # He was really
informative and helpful.The gist of what he had to say , was-- That if a 912 is not
tuned correctly or is run improperly # 2 cyl. will soot up, as it runs richer and cooler than the
others. He said that this is normal in a out of tune engine!!. Said he thought if I would
balance the carbs, set takeoff Rpm, service the gear box. replace the carb mounting boots,
set the idle.and get the engine up to 1,800 to 2,000 Rpm as soon as possible after
start up my problems would go away.
All this may seem obvious to those of you that run 912s But it's all new to me.
The Kolb list has been a great comfort to me . Big pool of knowledge out there.
Seems like there is always someone that can suggest a solution to a problem, or can
get you pointed in the right direction.Or put you in contact with someone that can help. Hope someday i can repay the help i have received over the years.
Frank

From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 8:42:13 AM
Subject: RE: Re: 912uls




Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or not , but

definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a bronze brush.

Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.

Frank
Quote:

Two things come to mind: -Enricher is leaking past the "O" rings. -Carbs out of sync.
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racerjerry



Joined: 15 Dec 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Deer Park, NY

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Re: 912uls Reply with quote

Hi Frank,

I typed this up before I viewed the suggestion by Ronnie Smith – hopefully his cure will take care of your problem and you can be on your way. If you should need to dig further, the below info may help.

Before I begin, I must tell you that I do not have Rotax 4-cycle engine experience. Did you view this video? http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/free-videos/417-asb912062 I agree that, on the surface, it does not appear that your S/N is affected by the bulletin, BUT…

Soot is an indication that the sparkplug may not be firing. You need to see if you are getting voltage to he plugs. The next time this problem occurs, take two spare plugs, ground them to the engine case/ head (externally); swap plug wires and see if you see a spark at the gap. You could remove one sparkplug from each cylinder to keep the engine from firing and make the test less dangerous. MAKE SURE THAT THE ALL SPARK PLUGS ARE GROUNDED or you might damage the electronic ignition. You might electrically tie the plug bodies to the head using safety wire. In any event, don’t crank the engine with plug wires hanging loose.

Often, when an ignition coil is failing (cracked), temperature will make a difference in whether the affected plugs fire or not. If no spark is present, then maybe you can swap wires or coil with another cylinder to pin down the problem. Keep in mind that the BEST troubleshooting method for electrical problems is SUBSTITUTION. See if you can move the problem around to another cylinder.

Are the deposits bridging the sparkplugs gap? Is it obvious? If so, it may still be oil fouling. The SB talks about a machining error in that the intake spring seat could have been machined too deep, causing a small hole and exposing the intake port in the cylinder head to oil present at the valve cover area. The SB provides a simplistic test to check for leakage by just checking for plug fouling. Another way of testing for leakage would be to make a cover plate for the intake port and see if it could hold a vacuum (with intake valve closed). Or just check visually inside the port for a hole – it would be adjacent to the spring seat pocket (bottom of spring).

Other areas where oil could enter are through a bad (cracked / broken / missing) intake valve seal or past a broken piston ring. A borescope check of the cylinder might reveal deep vertical lines indicative of a broken ring. Have you performed a compression test? Absolute numbers won’t mean much, but comparing results with other cylinders may help identify the problem.

Good Luck,


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Jerry King
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